Wayne County Hose
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New boom cylinder fixed the droopsies..
- Thread starter RexB
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dfkrug
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RexB said:
What I do, REX, is put a rod thru the cross-tube at the end of the cylinder
and park a vehicle on the rod. Then I use the breaker bar (for nuts) or
big-a55 wrench for the caps. No vise-clamping, no scratches, no 3/4"
drive pneumatic wrench. I have never had to use heat either.
Anyway, I have not opened my KL130 cylinders, but I suspect the walls
are 0.16" or so. Can you measure them for me when you get it open?
Good luck.
OP
RexB
Gold Member
{oops I posted this then saw dfkrug's post so I'll read that now.)
Got it. Another hour of Aerokroil, tapping with a hammer, heat and a gutpuking heave with the pipewrench. Luckily I hadn't drank lunch yet. Pulled the rod out, thanks for the warning it shoots like a pressure sprayer out the exhaust fitting. The gushing hyd oil blew off the rags I'd put on 'em and the stream hit the wall 15ft away. Had to stop and laugh.
On to the parts: In the picture from left to right are the black O-rings then the whitish (plastic?) rings, and a wear ring between them. The O-rings look and feel smooth to the fingers under a halogen light.
Comparing the schematic with reality, I can't even tell for sure what numbers go to what rings and things. I can tell the piston nut though. And the wear bands!
They don't seem to need replacing, but what do I know. So do I cut them off then slide the new O-rings over the gland into their grooves?
(The cylinder works Ok {or did lol}, it just slowly falls down while the engine is running. The new boom cylinder stays up.}
Lookit the dirt already collecting on the gland sheeeeesh.
Got it. Another hour of Aerokroil, tapping with a hammer, heat and a gutpuking heave with the pipewrench. Luckily I hadn't drank lunch yet. Pulled the rod out, thanks for the warning it shoots like a pressure sprayer out the exhaust fitting. The gushing hyd oil blew off the rags I'd put on 'em and the stream hit the wall 15ft away. Had to stop and laugh.
On to the parts: In the picture from left to right are the black O-rings then the whitish (plastic?) rings, and a wear ring between them. The O-rings look and feel smooth to the fingers under a halogen light.
Comparing the schematic with reality, I can't even tell for sure what numbers go to what rings and things. I can tell the piston nut though. And the wear bands!
They don't seem to need replacing, but what do I know. So do I cut them off then slide the new O-rings over the gland into their grooves?
(The cylinder works Ok {or did lol}, it just slowly falls down while the engine is running. The new boom cylinder stays up.}
Lookit the dirt already collecting on the gland sheeeeesh.
Last edited:
OP
RexB
Gold Member
dfkrug, i'm no good at reading decimals off it, but the caliper opening measures 3/16" and it's telling me 0.21 inches. And a T-bar thru the crosstube was what did it, after the concrete dried that I set the dang cylinder into.dfkrug said:
,
Wayne (county?), I coulda' used that monster pipewrench on your wall, my 24-incher barely opened wide enough.
dfkrug
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RexB said:
So...betw .188 (3/16) and .210 thick. I want to calculate push/pull
forces and I need an accurate bore size (OD-2x wall).
It is not obvious from the photos how it failed. Any scoring on the inside of
the cyl?
Thx for posting. Let us know if you find anything conclusive.
OP
RexB
Gold Member
I measured with the caliper again and it registers 0.21" on the dial -- the 3/16" was eyeballing it on the tapemeasure.
Calculating push/pull forces of the cylinder? Yowza, i flunked college physics and didn't even look at fluid dynamics.
If you do the bigger boom cylinders' forces too, this BH14-0100 bore for the KB2375 measures 6.695 on the caliper whatever that means, eyeballing it on a tape is 2 7/8" ID.
,
No scoring I can see inside this tubecylinder, or the rod, looks like a new smoothbore rifle barrel.
Calculating push/pull forces of the cylinder? Yowza, i flunked college physics and didn't even look at fluid dynamics.
If you do the bigger boom cylinders' forces too, this BH14-0100 bore for the KB2375 measures 6.695 on the caliper whatever that means, eyeballing it on a tape is 2 7/8" ID.
,
No scoring I can see inside this tubecylinder, or the rod, looks like a new smoothbore rifle barrel.
Wayne County Hose
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Oh, one little warning, when you pull the rod out, oil may shoot out the rod end port.
Well, you already figured out that the orange piece is the wear band. You can see the split, easy off, easy on. Look for something similar on the piston seals. I think I see something like a split that would make for easy removal. I am impressed, that looks like a nice quality cylinder assembly. Large enough wear band, good quality piston seal, heavy piston, extra o-ring on the gland. This is not a cheapo set-up.
Take a flashlight and inspect the cylinder bore very thoroughly. Look for differences in the pattern of the light. Shine it up there and you'll see what I mean. The glare will come off the cylinder wall in a nice pattern, check for anything out of the pattern. Also look for debris, burrs, anything that could have caused fluid to go past the piston seal.
And, remember to put your daughter's pipe wrench back on the Fisher-Price workshop peg board when you are done.
Well, you already figured out that the orange piece is the wear band. You can see the split, easy off, easy on. Look for something similar on the piston seals. I think I see something like a split that would make for easy removal. I am impressed, that looks like a nice quality cylinder assembly. Large enough wear band, good quality piston seal, heavy piston, extra o-ring on the gland. This is not a cheapo set-up.
Take a flashlight and inspect the cylinder bore very thoroughly. Look for differences in the pattern of the light. Shine it up there and you'll see what I mean. The glare will come off the cylinder wall in a nice pattern, check for anything out of the pattern. Also look for debris, burrs, anything that could have caused fluid to go past the piston seal.
And, remember to put your daughter's pipe wrench back on the Fisher-Price workshop peg board when you are done.
dfkrug
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Wayne County Hose said:
Yeah, the construction is better than on my old JD loader cyls and some
others I have opened. Good Korean quality.
REX, your push force on the 2 7/8 ID cyl is just your pump pressure
x 6.5 sq in. Pull force requires you subtract off the effect of the rod cross
sectional area. My CK30 pressure is measured at 2530psi BTW.
OP
RexB
Gold Member
LOL Andy, who's your buddy?
If the piston seals are the white plastic rings, next to the yellowish rings that don't have a split, then yes they're split all ready to take off easy. But those rings are all smooth and 'apparently' undamaged. But since i don't have 2,000 psi fingertips...
A flashlight inspection of the bore, w/ my reading glasses on, shows a beautiful shiny uniform surface, EXcept for a light ring, almost a scratch, around the entire inner circumference that looks to match up with the steel at the end of the piston end of the gland. I don't "see" that it could be a problem unless the piston/gland was stopped at that exact position every time when the backhoe was up in the air -- and it starts dropping at whatever position it is in.
But it still digs good.
I'm thinking that this whole thing looks and feels pretty good, but should I go ahead and replace the
#8 O-rings #5003-0065,
#9 two O-rings (LBG-20) #5007-M001
#13 O and Backup Rings #5004-M701
while I'm in there, or leave well enough alone?
If the piston seals are the white plastic rings, next to the yellowish rings that don't have a split, then yes they're split all ready to take off easy. But those rings are all smooth and 'apparently' undamaged. But since i don't have 2,000 psi fingertips...
A flashlight inspection of the bore, w/ my reading glasses on, shows a beautiful shiny uniform surface, EXcept for a light ring, almost a scratch, around the entire inner circumference that looks to match up with the steel at the end of the piston end of the gland. I don't "see" that it could be a problem unless the piston/gland was stopped at that exact position every time when the backhoe was up in the air -- and it starts dropping at whatever position it is in.
But it still digs good.
I'm thinking that this whole thing looks and feels pretty good, but should I go ahead and replace the
#8 O-rings #5003-0065,
#9 two O-rings (LBG-20) #5007-M001
#13 O and Backup Rings #5004-M701
while I'm in there, or leave well enough alone?
Wayne County Hose
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Sorry buddy, I tried to think of everything.
I would replace #8, 9 I wouldn't bother unless they're damaged. 9 is a static seal, no movement. 8 can get damaged on install just because of it's nature so it's good to have spares. I would just get the piston seal kit and #8 o-rings. I have no idea why your cylinder was drifting.
I would replace #8, 9 I wouldn't bother unless they're damaged. 9 is a static seal, no movement. 8 can get damaged on install just because of it's nature so it's good to have spares. I would just get the piston seal kit and #8 o-rings. I have no idea why your cylinder was drifting.
