I have been trying to pull the drum off of the spline. Unfortunately, it seems to be stuck. Other posts indicated that the drum easily pulled off. I have already hit it with PB Blaster. There is some rust coating the drum. I do not see any oil. In order to free up the drum, I am considering hitting the drum straight-on (towards the center of the tractor) to free it up. I am wondering if the spline or drum hole are tapered. Of course, I would not hit it in if that is the case. Any suggestions???
New Brakes On 336D
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normde2001
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Markey said:
That's the reason for pulling the wheel, so you can get to the drum to clean it on the tractor.
Thanks Norm. I do understand what you are saying. However, after reading others' posts, I figured that the drum would easily pull off the spline, and I could have it sand-blasted. I think that the rust coating (also described by others) may be caused by condensation inside the closed cover. In the meantime, I keep spraying it in hopes of freeing it up. If that fails, I will have to hand-sand as best as I can.
kenmac
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My drums didn't come easy.I had to hit mine with a dead blow hammer to get them off
California
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I'm having trouble visualizing the problem that this effort is going to solve.
If the drum is worn to the point of replacement, or the oil seal behind the drum needs to be replaced, then obviously the drum has to come off.
But it seems to me that properly fitted shoes will clean up minor surface rust in the drum the first few times the brakes are applied, so there is little need to heavily sand the drum surface. (I'm assuming the tractor has been in more or less continuous service so the wear is even and things aren't rusted solid.) It could use a few minutes work to knock down the loose rust, and then a careful wipe with a rag to get as much residue out as possible. After that I doubt if the operation of the tractor will seem any different if the drums are removed and sanded to a shine, or just left to wear in. Would there be any noticeable difference the second day after the brake job?
It's not unusual to see surface rust on disc brakes and nobody sands that before driving.
Maybe I'm missing the point - somebody enlighten me. (Norm - don't start with 'Don't you know anything...'
)
If the drum is worn to the point of replacement, or the oil seal behind the drum needs to be replaced, then obviously the drum has to come off.
But it seems to me that properly fitted shoes will clean up minor surface rust in the drum the first few times the brakes are applied, so there is little need to heavily sand the drum surface. (I'm assuming the tractor has been in more or less continuous service so the wear is even and things aren't rusted solid.) It could use a few minutes work to knock down the loose rust, and then a careful wipe with a rag to get as much residue out as possible. After that I doubt if the operation of the tractor will seem any different if the drums are removed and sanded to a shine, or just left to wear in. Would there be any noticeable difference the second day after the brake job?
It's not unusual to see surface rust on disc brakes and nobody sands that before driving.
Maybe I'm missing the point - somebody enlighten me. (Norm - don't start with 'Don't you know anything...'
)
Last edited:
MJPetersen
Veteran Member
If I understand correctly, he has to get the drum off to replace a seal or clean the ridge up ect. The problem is that the drum is "stuck" to the splined shaft that drives it by rust. He is trying to free the drum with the hammer, penetrating oil, sanding, and maybe a bit of heat. That is the problem, if I have the picture correct in my mind.
You did take the retaining clip off didn't you. Of course silly suggestion. but well I have been known ---another story.
Mike
You did take the retaining clip off didn't you. Of course silly suggestion. but well I have been known ---another story.
Mike
Yes Mike, you are correct regarding my intent. Other posts have mentioned a "retaining clip". Mine has only large nut, lock washer, and large washer holding drum on shaft. Neither parts manual or service manual shows "retaining clip". I can not see one on the part either. I will keep at it.
mark777
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MJPetersen said:
I was thinking exactly the same.
A few years ago the previous owner of a 1610D ruined the case by trying to remove the brake drum and cracked the case due to forgetting (or not knowing) to remove the clip retainer. $700. plus freight for an empty case.
kenmac
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I only took my drums off cause, I wanted to glass bead the insides of the drum. The drum doesn't have to come off just to replace the shoes
normde2001
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California said:I'm having trouble visualizing the problem that this effort is going to solve.
If the drum is worn to the point of replacement, or the oil seal behind the drum needs to be replaced, then obviously the drum has to come off.
But it seems to me that properly fitted shoes will clean up minor surface rust in the drum the first few times the brakes are applied, so there is little need to heavily sand the drum surface. (I'm assuming the tractor has been in more or less continuous service so the wear is even and things aren't rusted solid.) It could use a few minutes work to knock down the loose rust, and then a careful wipe with a rag to get as much residue out as possible. After that I doubt if the operation of the tractor will seem any different if the drums are removed and sanded to a shine, or just left to wear in. Would there be any noticeable difference the second day after the brake job?
It's not unusual to see surface rust on disc brakes and nobody sands that before driving.
Maybe I'm missing the point - somebody enlighten me. (Norm - don't start with 'Don't you know anything...'
Hey, I'm in full agreement with you.
