New Brakes On 336D

Markey · Apr 15, 2007

I already tried the wax. Did not work. I thought I had it solved! Wrong! I tried using my 12 volt impact wrench. I could not believe that it did not crack open the nut. Whew! One tough not indeed. Now, I hope I am working with standard threads and not reverse threads! Nut on left pinion/spline loosened counterclockwise. I hope nut on right side is same way. I have been bullwinkling the right nut counterclockwise too.

kenmac · Apr 15, 2007

they come off the standard way rt -tight lf- loose

Markey · Apr 15, 2007

kenmac said:
they come off the standard way rt -tight lf- loose

Kenmac, thank you for verifying. It makes me feel better that I have been doing all of that tugging in the proper direction -- counterclockwise to loosen for both sides. I just can't believe that 2.5 feet stell pipe extension over 10" ratchet did not even break the nut loose. Yea, it broke my ratchet mechanism. That is a heck of a lot of torque!!! I realize that it didn't help that the rear wheel was sometimes moving when I torqued the nut. I chocked it as beat as I could and hit the differential lock. Maybe I need a wall in front of the front bumper to brace the tractor from moving forward when applying torque to the nut. Hmmm. Just a thought!

kenmac · Apr 15, 2007

Don't know why you are having that much trouble . Mine came off with air inpac wrench.I keep mine connected to 175 psi side of my compressor. Don't use a ratchet with a cheater. Use a pull handle

Jagmandave · Apr 16, 2007

Maybe I need a wall in front of the front bumper to brace the tractor from moving forward when applying torque to the nut. Hmmm. Just a thought!\

I think you may have found you problem...........if you're working on the right side of the tractor and the tractor is moving forward as you apply torque to the nut, you must be turning it to the right..........ie: tightening it?

Markey · Apr 16, 2007

Jagmandave said:
Maybe I need a wall in front of the front bumper to brace the tractor from moving forward when applying torque to the nut. Hmmm. Just a thought!\

I think you may have found you problem...........if you're working on the right side of the tractor and the tractor is moving forward as you apply torque to the nut, you must be turning it to the right..........ie: tightening it?

I am definitely torquing the nut counterclockwise. I have a large block of wood in front of the right rear tire to try to inhibit the tire from rotating forward when counterclockwise torque is applied. Remember, the large nut that secures the drum is attached to the spline/pinion which, in-turn is geared to the rear axel. The spline/pinion turns in the opposite direction of the same-side axle.

normde2001 · Apr 16, 2007

Markey said:
I am definitely torquing the nut counterclockwise. I have a large block of wood in front of the right rear tire to try to inhibit the tire from rotating forward when counterclockwise torque is applied. Remember, the large nut that secures the drum is attached to the spline/pinion which, in-turn is geared to the rear axel. The spline/pinion turns in the opposite direction of the same-side axle.

He gotcha there, Dave

. Put that 2 1/2' pipe on a breaker bar, keep adding penetrant, and it will work.

Markey · Apr 16, 2007

GOOD NEWS!!! Large nut securing right brake drum FINALLY broke free. I borrowed a large 3/4" ratchet from a friend. Previously, I had been using a 1/2" drive. The larger size made all the difference. That stubborn nut broke free immediately. To make things ever sweeter, the drum simply slid right off the spine/pinion without any trouble (unlike the left side). I will get both drums blasted, clean everything up, reassemble, and report back. I thank everyone very much for their valuable input. Not only did the larger size ratchet make all the difference, so did all who responded.

kenmac · Apr 16, 2007

sounds great ! I have a large glass bead machine that I used to clean mine up so, I can't say how a sand blasting job will do but, it should be ok.

Jagmandave · Apr 17, 2007

Remember, the large nut that secures the drum is attached to the spline/pinion which, in-turn is geared to the rear axel. The spline/pinion turns in the opposite direction of the same-side axle.

OK, showing my ignorance of your particular model, I didn't know it had the extra gearing there, I thought the spline was on the same shaft as the wheel...my bad.

Glad you got it off OK, onward and upward!

I know what you mean about the right sized tool for the job. I was trying to get my blades off my ZTR with a 1/2 breakover bar and a 5ft length of pipe. After breaking the bar and the socket, I went down to Sears and bought 3/4" drive versions................came right off!