New BX24

[richardbro]

Nice tractor! It will do a lot of work for you.
Always lower the backhoe to the ground when removed. Then relieve pressure in the valve by moving levers around with engine off before disconnect. This will insure no built up hydraulic pressure in lines that can hinder reattachment of lines. This goes to loader as well. Hopefully you will not have a problem with reattachment. If you do, there is a way to relieve pressure. Cross that bridge when you get there.
Good luck. It will be a fun learning experience!

I managed to reattach the FEL this morning - easy. Attaching the tiller to the 3PT was a bit more diffucult - the 2x4 lever came in handy.

Question about the 3pt hitch: the top link has a sort of ball thingy that moves around freely within the link captured end. The bottom links each have one of these too but they hardyly move (or don't move with hand pressure and a liberal application of 10wd40). Is this normal? Getting these suckers to swivel would gratly help attaching things.

Also, couldn't figure out the Walco rotory cutter - the space between this linkage arms seems to be greater than what the lower links can spread. Also, it was missing some pins for the bottom links and the large pin for the top link. Back to the dealer Monday...

 

[Grrrr]

I managed to reattach the FEL this morning - easy. Attaching the tiller to the 3PT was a bit more diffucult - the 2x4 lever came in handy.

Question about the 3pt hitch: the top link has a sort of ball thingy that moves around freely within the link captured end. The bottom links each have one of these too but they hardyly move (or don't move with hand pressure and a liberal application of 10wd40). Is this normal? Getting these suckers to swivel would gratly help attaching things.

Also, couldn't figure out the Walco rotory cutter - the space between this linkage arms seems to be greater than what the lower links can spread. Also, it was missing some pins for the bottom links and the large pin for the top link. Back to the dealer Monday...

Yep, those lower balls ends should swivel. Just put a piece of pipe through them and move them around. They probably got stuck when the tractor was painted.

The lower arms might have some 'check arms or chains'

These are meant to keep the implement from going from side to side. If these are tight they will stop the TPH from opening up wide.

The pins can probably be got from any tractor place. Most of the implements I have bought don't come with them.

 

[Singlecoil]

Question about the 3pt hitch: the top link has a sort of ball thingy that moves around freely within the link captured end. The bottom links each have one of these too but they hardyly move (or don't move with hand pressure and a liberal application of 10wd40). Is this normal? Getting these suckers to swivel would gratly help attaching things.

Mine did that too on my 24. It drove me nuts until the fine folks on here told me that they were painted and that I should just force them to break through the paint.

 

[DiezNutz]

Always lower the backhoe to the ground when removed. Then relieve pressure in the valve by moving levers around with engine off before disconnect. This will insure no built up hydraulic pressure in lines that can hinder reattachment of lines. This goes to loader as well.

Actually, you want to lower the main frame of the backhoe on something akin to a length of a 6"x6". Lowering it all the way to the ground puts alot of strain on the stabilizers and frame when it tries to pick itself back up. Main thing though is to not leave it suspended in the air relying on hydraulic pressure to support it.

The advice about working the FEL joystick is very good and correct, but the same is very BAD advice for the BH. The critical difference is where you're breaking the connection. With the FEL you're taking the load off of the cylinders with the bucket and parking stand and equalizing the pressure in the work circuits, then breaking the connection between the valves and the cylinders. With the BH you're breaking the main connection between the tractor and the valves. The BH has open-center spool valves, so the two connections you're disconnecting already have their pressure equalized because they're effectively the same circuit. Whatever pressure is in the work circuits (between valves and cylinders) isn't affected by the main circuit, and vice versa since the (closed) valves isolate them from each other.

So number one, it buys you nothing. More importantly, its dangerous. You just went to all the trouble to position the BH for storage. Now if you start yanking joysticks with the engine off, you're going to unload the cylinders that are propping it up - possibly quite suddenly - which may cause it to tip over. And one thing you really don't want to do is work the sticks after you've disconnected the BH. That will transfer pressure from the cylinders to the main circuit you disconnected. So whereas you started out with zero pressure behind your quick-disconnects, now you've inherited the very problem you wanted to avoid in the first place. Yet another reason for propping the BH up on a block and taking all load off the cylinders; you wind up with the same problem when the cylinders bleed down back through the valves and the pressure ends up at your QD's.

By the way... congratulations!

 

[srossman]

I managed to reattach the FEL this morning - easy. Attaching the tiller to the 3PT was a bit more diffucult - the 2x4 lever came in handy.

Question about the 3pt hitch: the top link has a sort of ball thingy that moves around freely within the link captured end. The bottom links each have one of these too but they hardyly move (or don't move with hand pressure and a liberal application of 10wd40). Is this normal? Getting these suckers to swivel would gratly help attaching things.

Also, couldn't figure out the Walco rotory cutter - the space between this linkage arms seems to be greater than what the lower links can spread. Also, it was missing some pins for the bottom links and the large pin for the top link. Back to the dealer Monday...

One thing you may want to also look into is getting a set of Pat's easy change. They make hooking up 3pt implements a breeze. Oh and congrats on the new toy err I mean tool.

-Scot

 

[Renob]

Dieznutz,

Thanks for your input concerning my post. I buy most of it, but not all.


You say,
Actually, you want to lower the main frame of the backhoe on something akin to a length of a 6"x6". Lowering it all the way to the ground puts alot of strain on the stabilizers and frame when it tries to pick itself back up. Main thing though is to not leave it suspended in the air relying on hydraulic pressure to support it.


I actually do support the removed backhoe with a wood block, but I have removed it without one and have had no problem with reattachment. The stabilizers lift the whole tractor off the ground. How could they strain just lifting the BH?

You say,
Now if you start yanking joysticks with the engine off, you're going to unload the cylinders that are propping it up - possibly quite suddenly - which may cause it to tip over.

I actually want all load off the cylinders for the simple fact that I have a 9 year old boy that can't keep his hands off anything and I don'y want those cylinders supporting any weight. I want that BH fully rested with no load on the cylinders so if junior pulls a handle, which he will, it won't flop over, which the OP's BH would land on Juniors foot, or worse.

As for your input concerning the fact the valve is removed with the BH so the is no pressure issue as with the FEL. I am sure you are correct, but cannot comment due to lack of knowledge. All I know is what I do works and is an attempt to be as safe as possible.

 

[DiezNutz]

I actually do support the removed backhoe with a wood block, but I have removed it without one and have had no problem with reattachment. The stabilizers lift the whole tractor off the ground. How could they strain just lifting the BH? Think of the geometry involved. The stabilizer cylinder piston exerts force along the rod to the knuckle on the stabilizer foot. If the BH is sitting on the floor with the stabilizers spread flat out, when you go to lift it almost all of the force is being applied horizontally as tension to the stabilizer legs instead of working to lift the BH; it would pull the legs and feet right out of their sockets if it could. {Imagine you or I doing a split (as if I could) and then trying to pull our legs together to stand up without bending our knees - 'cause the BH doesn't have knees}. Now compare that to when the stabilizers are at a downward angle as you're trying to lift the tractor. Most of the force is now being applied vertically, as compression between the foot and the BH frame. {Now imagine you or I standing with our feet spread just a few feet apart and then pulling them together without bending our knees - easier, right?}

Not saying it won't lift it from a 'split', it's just a bit more stressful on the joints. My Woods BH manual actually instructs you to put it on a block, presumably for this reason.

I actually want all load off the cylinders for the simple fact that I have a 9 year old boy that can't keep his hands off anything and I don'y want those cylinders supporting any weight. I want that BH fully rested with no load on the cylinders so if junior pulls a handle, which he will, it won't flop over, which the OP's BH would land on Juniors foot, or worse.
Unfortunately you can't take all the load off the boom cylinder unless you support it also (i.e., with a hoist/sling from above). Specifically one thing I was referring to was if you were to yank the boom handle toward "raise" with the BH connected, it will suddenly come up and the BH will tip backwards. If you re-read/think about what I posted, you'll see that this is a danger when the BH is still connected to the tractor. Once you pop the QD's, Junior can jerk the handles all he wants and very little will happen because the fluid that's trapped in the BH circuits has nowhere to go (unless something were to rupture). What it will do is put pressure on the QD's making it real fun for you to connect them next time. You don't have to take my word for it; try these things (carefully), and you'll see for yourself.
OH, and you also want to curl the bucket completely to take the load off the bucket cylinder (which it looks like the OP did).

As for your input concerning the fact the valve is removed with the BH so the is no pressure issue as with the FEL. I am sure you are correct, but cannot comment due to lack of knowledge. All I know is what I do works and is an attempt to be as safe as possible. "As safe as possible" is exactly why I'm telling you guys all of this

 

[Volfandt]

Not saying it won't lift it from a 'split', it's just a bit more stressful on the joints. My Woods BH manual actually instructs you to put it on a block, presumably for this reason.

Hate to intrude into a perfectly good debate but I feel oblidged to another 0.02 here.
According to the owners manual supplied by Kubota for the BX23, proper stowage of a dismounted BH is to fully lower the outriggers which inturn lowers the entire BH assembly to the ground. This provides for the most stability of the dismounted BH. Theres no mention of any undue stress in raising the BH up to mount it.
Observe the pic under "versatility" in the attached Kubota pic.
Kubota Tractor Corporation - BX Series - BX23 Sub-Compact Tractors

Course I dismount my BH onto a dollie and use a bungee cord to keep the fully raised stabilizers in the up position. For me this minimizes the stowage "footprint" and makes it easier for me to manuver it around the shop. This runs counter to Kubota's recommendation but it works for me

 

[NJDiverDan]

Not saying it won't lift it from a 'split', it's just a bit more stressful on the joints. My Woods BH manual actually instructs you to put it on a block, presumably for this reason.

I would presume that your manual tells you this for more of a stability / not putting your hoe down in the rocks or cement than for damage to the outriggers. The forces applied to the riggers in any angle is far far greater than the weight of the hoe. Heck, think of how much they move / drag around when digging. That latteral pressure far exceeds the weight of the hoe. I think your logic as to why to put the hoe up on a block is flawed, but that is just my persumption.

-d

 

[richardbro]

I would presume that your manual tells you this for more of a stability / not putting your hoe down in the rocks or cement than for damage to the outriggers. The forces applied to the riggers in any angle is far far greater than the weight of the hoe. Heck, think of how much they move / drag around when digging. That latteral pressure far exceeds the weight of the hoe. I think your logic as to why to put the hoe up on a block is flawed, but that is just my persumption.

-d

Great discussion guys -

My BX24 manual advises to move the control levers to relieve pressure, so I did this with no ill effect. However, in trying to be complete, I also jiggled the stabilizer levers, which caused the whole unit to move (so I stopped real quick). If this is normal, then the manual is not clear - I can see people getting hurt doing this.

I've got the outrigger pads on some plywood to protect the cement floor. Didn't think of the blocks under the main unit -good idea.

Building the dolly will have to wait until I'm more organized in the shop.