New CK2610 : rough running/clanging engine, cold and hot

[mangler]

Is your amp clamp made for DC? I ask only because I have seen more than one person use an amp clamp made for AC on a DC circuit, and of course got a zero amp reading.
Eric

Yes definitely a DC clamp, I got the multimeter for that function (Habotest HT206D). Nice to be able to get an amp reading without taking things apart. It is a pretty rare feature, you have to seek it out.

 

[etpm]

Yes definitely a DC clamp, I got the multimeter for that function (Habotest HT206D). Nice to be able to get an amp reading without taking things apart. It is a pretty rare feature, you have to seek it out.

That's cool. Now, since you know no juice is flowing, you have a clue where to look. I love test equipment when looking for electrical and electronic problems.
Eric

 

[Billrog]

Have 1700 hrs on my 2610 rattles and bangs on start up for a while. Noisy but love the tractor many improvements over the ck27 i put 6000 hrs on. It's been cold here latey so i cycle the preheat twice. Small puff of black smoke then clears right up.

 

[mangler]

Have 1700 hrs on my 2610 rattles and bangs on start up for a while. Noisy but love the tractor many improvements over the ck27 i put 6000 hrs on. It's been cold here latey so i cycle the preheat twice. Small puff of black smoke then clears right up.

I am now almost certain that my intake air pre-heater is not doing it's job. I just need to find the fuse for it now, not sure where it is.

Edit: I hope I get 1700 hours out of my CK2610! Any large mechanical repairs to date?

 

[The Fred]

It's right behind the starter about 2 inches, red/white 12 gauge wire. You don't even have to open the hood.

Mine melted at the heater connection itself on the intake, 6 mm stud, 10 mm wrench you can't miss it.

 

[Billrog]

I am now almost certain that my intake air pre-heater is not doing it's job. I just need to find the fuse for it now, not sure where it is.

Edit: I hope I get 1700 hours out of my CK2610! Any large mechanical repairs to date?

All I've done is add fuel and change oil runs like a champ. No special oil but add stanadine to the fuel ( preformance formula)

 

[mangler]

It's right behind the starter about 2 inches, red/white 12 gauge wire. You don't even have to open the hood.

Mine melted at the heater connection itself on the intake, 6 mm stud, 10 mm wrench you can't miss it.

Found it, your instructions are better than the shop manual...

40A fuse looks fine, 1.7 ohms across the terminals. Very easy to remove though(especially compared to the main glow plug fuse), maybe it was loose? I'll re-install and do another amp test.

After replugging the fuse,air heater seems to work now. I definitely saw the rpms go up after roughly 60seconds, and it started OK (not too much smoke, no limping on 1-2 cylinders before the 3rd one catches) with a reverse key cycle and a normal glow plug cycle. It's about 33F here so i guess thats what you can expect.

 

[Billrog]

Lots of banging & smoke yesterday when i started my tractor at - 27 C lasted 15 or 20 sec then just rattled while I let it warm up . Hydraulics at that temp are slow to warm up so took it easy for a while then plowed snow for 4 hrs. Motor never missed a beat.

 

[5030]

Because the steering is hydraulic the wheel constantly moves around slowly in one direction. Best to leave it alone.

...or the other, depending on which way you turn it. It's hydrostatic steering, not hydraulic fyi.

 

[5030]

My SOP on both my Kubota's in the winter (if I need them), is to start them up, kick up the idle a bit and go in the house and have a cup of Joe, while they warm up. Not even in the summer do I ever operate either with a stone cold motor or transmission. Same with the cars too.