New CK2610 : rough running/clanging engine, cold and hot

[ishiboo]

Sounds normal to me as well.

I don't have a CK2610, but my Deere 1025R definitely sounds like yours and I'm on my second. The small diesels are not as refined. (Of course, they also have no particulate filter to stop the smoke) My NX was MUCH quieter and smoother, and I anticipate my RX will be the same.

 

[DK35vince]

Makes me feel a bit better, mine does sound like that. Her's mine starting "cold". I still think she's extra clangy.

[video]https://drive.google.com/file/d/11MJQsw8iT-9CrHV2Bxb76SCdhh12AGoI/view?usp=sharing[/video]

Sounds fine to me.
My 2001 DK 35 sounds about the same for the past 19 years. (2270+ hours)

 

[PhilipRuff]

Sorry to bring this back to life but I was in the same boat as the OP. Tractor was bought in September and the more I drove it the more I thought it smoked at start up, almost a bluish, gray, white cloud that would fill the garage. What is interesting is that the temperature was slowly dropping with my starts too so I began to think the glow plugs or preheater were my issue, rather then glazing or a leaking valve seal. I troubleshot it all the way back to the relay where it’s not getting the 12V input voltage to the coil. The relay was bench tested with a spare battery and meter. The output to the coil is controlled by a controller that I assume only actuates the relay at cold temps? I don’t know how cold that has to be but it didn’t fire this morning at 40F. Another test I did was take the wife’s hair dryer and take the intake boot off and blow some hot air in while starting, this eliminated all of my smoke and rough start(clanging). The glow plug and preheater relays are under the dash on the left side. The one closer to the outside is the glow plug relay where the inside one is the preheater. I might try to just cut in a switch for driving the preheater relay or take it to the dealer and get it covered under warranty. Just figured that this might help someone else that is having similar issues. With their new Kioti CK2610, mine is currently sitting at 30 hours.

 

[Goober2]

Well, mine is about the same vintage as yours and sounds just the same. As you've probably heard from others and experienced yourself, it does smooth out as it warms up and definitely has some happier rpm ranges where it is even smoother. I live in norther Idaho where we get sub-zero temps occasionally and it still sounds about the same.

 

[hornett22]

Great to have the explanation from Michigan Iron as to source of the sounds, I did not have a clue. I already had made a sound recording yesterday, so here it is for reference anyway. I filmed the exhaust as others had mentioned excessive smoke on start up of their new tractors. For what it's worth, Toukow

Sound Recording Cold Start Kioti CK2610HST - YouTube

Sounds fine to me.

 

[Boss 302]

Based on what I'm hearing, that is normal sounds sweet to me.

 

[ksbrdmkr]

I usually wear foam earplugs and earmuffs to cut the noise down on the cs2410 to the nh55. The new Holland is especially noisy with its' 3 cyl engine.

 

[mangler]

Make sure the induction pre-heater is working (at the intake manifold entry). Makes a huge difference at cooler temps. Throw an amp clamp around the wire they draw 30 plus amps when they are working correctly.

I disconnect mine in Summer by removing the fuse. You'll know it's right if the tractor idles a bit higher after 20 seconds or so, the lower idle when first started is because the alternator is trying to power the induction heater and putting a load on the engine.

View attachment 658134

A bit of a necropost, but I finally have a few minutes to investigate...

I still have a hell of a time starting cold. Just checked my manual looking for the air pre-heater fuse, and the closest I can see in the manual is a 25A fuse labelled "fuel pre-heater". If this is the correct fuse, and the air pre-heater draws 30+ amps, i can see why this circuit is problematic... Of course no spare 25A in the fuse box either. I'll have a look tonight at that fuse and put a clamp on the feed wire. She is nice and cold so there is no question the preheater would /should get turned on.

 

[mangler]

Edit. Put a clamp ammeter on the air pre-heater wire, and got 0amps with the key in glow plug heating position. I expect that is not normal.

From the crappy supplied manual it seems the fuse is a "slow blow" and may? be near the radiator, in a special little plastic enclosure. Driver side one is labelled "Charging power fuse", and the passenger side one is labelled "Preheating power fuse". Preheating sounds right, but is this specific ones for glow plugs? Air pre-heater? Both? Will be asking Santa for a shop manual...

 

[etpm]

Edit. Put a clamp ammeter on the air pre-heater wire, and got 0amps with the key in glow plug heating position. I expect that is not normal.

From the crappy supplied manual it seems the fuse is a "slow blow" and may? be near the radiator, in a special little plastic enclosure. Driver side one is labelled "Charging power fuse", and the passenger side one is labelled "Preheating power fuse". Preheating sounds right, but is this specific ones for glow plugs? Air pre-heater? Both? Will be asking Santa for a shop manual...

Is your amp clamp made for DC? I ask only because I have seen more than one person use an amp clamp made for AC on a DC circuit, and of course got a zero amp reading.
Eric