New garage and home build

[Zebrafive]

Since it appears that both ends of the build will have a driveway to it, I think it is a good idea to have a man door on each end. 4' wide ones might let you use that door for more and not have to open the big doors and let the heat out. What will you use for heat? Some people in the frozen north do in slab heating for their shops. I've been in houses with floor heat and it's really nice.

Would you be putting a car lift in at some point? You will need extra width in one stall for it.

Lay out the bench and workshop equipment to see if there's enough room for everything. You can put tables saws and other equipment on casters but you'll still need storage room and floor space to move it to when you use it.

Another thing a car lift requires is footing where the lift will sit. Easier to do now than later.

 

[Zebrafive]

My garage is 24x30 with 2 9ft wide doors, 2 ft on sides and middle.

Sides should be 4 ft min, so you have vehicle entry, storage room.

Then my barn is 30x48, and too small.

Good point! Either go WIDER or DELETE one overhead door and space the two remaining ones further from the side wall and each other.

 

[EddieWalker]

First. My plan is to store our RV, F150 truck, small tractor, snowmobile trailer, have a workshop and some storage such as implements. The first thing to come our would be the sled trailer if I run short of room.

How big is your RV?

If I was you, I would put flags in the ground, or stakes, or sticks, or whatever you have that you can show where each corner of the building will be. Think of the inside dimensions, so go 31x41. Then park everything that you are going to put in there and see how it fits. Imagine that there will be walls there and get a feel of how much room you will have to get around what's in there. Also figure out where your storage will be and where you will fit your work bench.

While you are at it, figure out how they will get in and out of the building. Do you have enough room for the RV to turn and get into there, and then get out again without hitting anything.

 

[Pixguy]

Compare this picture with you first picture of the rear. Notice where the top of door comes in relationship to the bottom edge of the roof. VERY different.

Yes, I believe early on, she had the door at 14蜘X12檀 which was opposite. Good catch.

 

[GLyford]

It is easy enough to frame the wall itself for a larger door with either stick or pole construction. The problem is you need the higher trusses for the length of the building to actually get the vehicle inside, rather than stopping at the first truss just inside. It can be a significant change to the structure of the building. If the height of vehicle + door* is too tall for a scissor truss you are at stick built rafters and a ridge beam. And probably post braces from the wall to the rafters to make up for the loss of tie bracing from the truss.

At some point all the trade-offs in construction complexity add up and it's easier/cheaper/stronger to just add another 2'+ to the wall height.

* If you plan to use a roll up door (door made with thin slats that rolls into a coil like many commercial businesses use) then the trusses only need to be tall enough for the vehicle, since the door can be "stored" in the gap between trusses over the header when open. As opposed to a regular garage type door with panels, which will need additional under roof space to be rolled up out of the way horizontally above the vehicle.

 

[Citydude]

How big is your RV?

If I was you, I would put flags in the ground, or stakes, or sticks, or whatever you have that you can show where each corner of the building will be. Think of the inside dimensions, so go 31x41. Then park everything that you are going to put in there and see how it fits. Imagine that there will be walls there and get a feel of how much room you will have to get around what's in there. Also figure out where your storage will be and where you will fit your work bench.

While you are at it, figure out how they will get in and out of the building. Do you have enough room for the RV to turn and get into there, and then get out again without hitting anything.

I highly recommend Eddie's idea of staking the dimensions of the building and parking all the items in the area.

My building is 30x40 and parking my crew cab f250 and tractor in it takes more room than I imagined it would.

 

[Ford850]

Maybe your dimensions changed after these plans were done, but you are saying you will have a 12' wide door and your foundation plans show a 10'6" door opening.

 

[aczlan]

I highly recommend Eddie's idea of staking the dimensions of the building and parking all the items in the area.
My building is 30x40 and parking my crew cab f250 and tractor in it takes more room than I imagined it would.

I agree. We had a 30x40 put up and its pretty small once you get pallet racking in and "stuff" around the outside.

Aaron Z

 

[Pixguy]

Thanks for all the suggestions. The area is still wooded so I'm going to have him clear it and then I'll stake it to see the size. The garage is also being pushed behind the house due to the 25' setback because the lot is 3acres but it is only 500' wide and I will consider having all the doors in the rear so I don't have to drive across a new lawn to get to the left 9' door.

I will dbl ck the measurements of all doors on the plans before we proceed.

 

[Rustyiron]

Pix, It's hard to have too much, money, fun, sex or too much shop (roof).
Balancing size with costs & building room as I believe has so far determined your size, I'd also consider placing the shop where you could (later) add a "lean too" along one of the long eve walls. When storage get's tight, and it seems to no matter how much roof you have, a lean too is a 2nd best option for stuff that you just want to keep the sun & weather off of and it's very cheap cover compared to your building. I'll migrate my junk around seasonally. For instance maybe your RV would be fine all spring, summer, & fall in the lean too freeing all kinds of space during the summer. I'm happy putting tractors & implements out in the "shed" but keep my plowing stuff in the heated shop during the winter. Just a thought as I've always had a 3 sided shed(s) for simple dry storage. Even having a carport type structure for your daily driver is far better than out in the open sky. See my snow pix above, that's one of them. 30'x78' on the back of the shop. I couldn't be without it especially for the cost per s/f.