New Guy needs expert advise on tractors

[CurlyDave]

I would like a tractor to clear/prep an area for a house, maintain roads, clear some areas, plant maybe 10-15 acre garden for personal use and sales, mow about 10-15 acres, maintain/work on pond, put up fence, other?

Depending on the size of the area being preped/cleared for a house you might be much better off to hire this out and save the tractor for the other tasks.

Right now we are building a house, admittedly in steep terrain, in OR, and my first thought was to do the prep work myself. My dealer strongly suggested getting someone else to do it, and a contractor with a bulldozer, a large trackhoe, a compactor, and a 4 or 5 cubic yard FEL has done in two weeks what I now realize would have taken me several years...

 

[Blu 82]

All--great info which will help me narrow down the size of tractor (prob 50-75 or so) and trying to match the right tractor characteristics with the work I plan on.

Trying to pick a brand is still an issue which I need more of your expertise. If MF, Deere, NH, Kubota, Mahindra are basically the same, then it comes down to price. Can anyone give good reasons to pick one manufacturer over another--and please be specific?

jeffghs--thanks for the info. Do you have dates on those fairs in GA, Mobile, and Pensacola? That would really help to see them all next to ea other and compare some of the ergonomics.

Thanks again for the info.

 

[jeffghs]

jeffghs--thanks for the info. Do you have dates on those fairs in GA, Mobile, and Pensacola? That would really help to see them all next to ea other and compare some of the ergonomics.

Blu 82
I would definately recommend the GA expo, it is through the middle of the week, but well worth it. I think you would find most of what you are looking for here. If you ever plan on making hay, there are some demonstrations there for that as well. Oct 17, 18, and 19. Here is the web site: Sunbelt Agricultural Exposition

For the Mobile fair it is the last 2 weeks of October, mostly just some static displays there. Welcome to the Greater Gulf State Fair

For Pensacola, I don't know too much, but I guess it would be a lot like the Mobile one, again the last 2 weeks of October. Welcome to the Pensacola Interstate Fair!

 

[Soundguy]

The big 3.. JD, NH, KUBota ( and MF )... you can't go wrong with their products. Also.. larger conglomerates.. like AGCO.. etc... next in my mind would be good units, with slightly less dealer support.. like mahindra, Kioti... etc..

The only issue with mahindra that i can think of, is generally you see lower resale value.. which isn't a big deal if you don't plan on reselling.. and I've seen plenty of discussion over the pto engagement . Some of them ( all? ) have an electric over hyd pto engagement solenoid.

The issue this creates is a 'fast' engage on the pto. Now.. some implements don't like that.. and in the case of rotary cutters.. even when you idle down real low, some people were popping shear pins on engagement.

I'm not sure that applies to all mahindra with independent pto.. or just some.. or if a method to feather engage has been implemented since this issue arose... However.. i would at least look into it. if the issue has been corrected or mitigated.

I'd test drive anything I was interested in.. just about all the major brands will do what you want.. start looking for other options.. .. not necescities.. but ergonomic issues.. like.. the seat.. control options.. trannies.. etc.. dealer attitude.. warranty.. financing options and incentives package deals with implements / discounts.. etc.

Soundguy

 

[N80]

Blu82,

Not being an expert my advice won't be expert advice, but I was in a similar situation to yours about a year ago. I've got 250 hilly acres, a 10 acre pond, a lot of woods roads, a few clearings/small fields. About 1/3 of the property is planted pines of various ages, the rest is hardwood predominant.

I got a Kubota L4400 4wd. It is 45 hp. I would agree that this might be smaller than what you are looking for but I can tell you what I have done with it. First, I mow the clearings and fields with a 6 foot rotary cutter. I maintain roads with the FEL and a 6' box blade.

But, I have also cleared about 3 acres in front of my cabin. This land was sloping and densely covered in young pines anywhere for 4 to 8" in diameter. You can see pics of it in my gallery:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/photos/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/22347

I was able to clear this area of all the trees (you can see how dense they were by looking on either side of the area I cleared). I removed the trees and a good many stumps left over from the previous cut. Then, with the BB and FEL I was able to make considerable changes to the landscape of this slope, cutting down high points and filling in some gullies. I can now mow the whole thing with my rotary cutter. It probably took me a total of 4-5 work days to do this. I have also cleared 3 or 4 food plots doing the same thing.

A larger tractor would have definitely been beneficial for all this clearing, but this little tractor still did a great job. The small size is also an asset for maneuvering in the tight clearings and along the narrow and hilly woods roads. Even though the 'boy' in me would love to have a bigger tractor (I really like the 5040), my budget limited me to the one I got and fortunately it has been up to the task.

I think the two areas that would benefit you by going larger would be mowing 10-15 acres and clearing land. My tractor will pull a 7 foot tag along rotary cutter but for 10-15 acres a ten footer would be real nice.

 

[Bob_Young]

Blu82, A few thoughts:
1. Weight in a tractor is great if you're doing traditional field work with 2WD. Still, I've noticed that taking a tractor that's quite heavy to begin with and then adding an FEL can turn the machine into a real slug. Road gear is often only useful if there's no grade, or nothing in tow, or both. Even in the field, almost any grade will make the tractor labor and sometimes require a lower gear. The lighter Kubotas, like my L4300 or N80's very similar L4400 are quite agile machines whether there's a loader mounted or not. Starting from a dead stop in road gear is no hassle and doesn't require much clutch slippage. Contrast this with a heavy rig that might require you to get it moving in a lower gear and then try to shift on the fly....but then I'm talking the 'old school' tractors of my youth.

2. As someone unfamiliar with tractors, an expedition into the unknown with an off-brand is the last thing you need. As has been pointed out by others, the Big Three are big for a reason; a totally polished and professional approach to tractor design, manufacturing, marketing and support. They best meet the user's needs in one or more of these categories. Due to your unfamiliarity (no fault in that, we all had to start somewhere) any issue that arises could easily cascade into something serious before being addressed. That being the case, wouldn't you want to buy from a manufacturer whose products rarely have issues? If issues arose anyway, wouldn't you want a support network that could provide a remedy quickly and easily? A network that would encourage you to resolve seemingly minor problems and issues before they turn serious?

3. It would be good to choose a tractor that helps you keep your options open. Big tractors are great. However, at some point the work that justified a behemoth will be done and only the recurring small and medium jobs will remain....jobs the big boy isn't well suited to. Farm out the work that requires heavy equipment and you can get by with something smaller in addition to saving wear and tear on your nice new tractor. Compact size, tight turning ability, and ease of shuttling between forward and reverse are golden qualities when working around trees and structures. You could find ALL of these things in a 40-50HP CUT, but not in larger Ag machines. A good CUT in the HP range indicated could do the small and medium jobs that'll make of the bulk of your work and help clean up after the big jobs. That may be all you ever need. Later on, when you get more experience, you might consider one of those large used Ag tractors that are so readily available in your area as a second machine...if you still need bigger.

In your shoes, I'd be looking at Kubota L4330 to L5030 with HST or New Holland TC40 to TC55 with supersteer & HST. Don't know the JD models, so can't help there. With HST, you'll sacrifice some HP on its way to the ground, but the ease of operation and increased productivity should more than make up for any losses.
FWIW
Bob

 

[DavesTractor]

Blu82, A few thoughts:
1. Weight in a tractor is great if you're doing traditional field work with 2WD. Still, I've noticed that taking a tractor that's quite heavy to begin with and then adding an FEL can turn the machine into a real slug. Road gear is often only useful if there's no grade, or nothing in tow, or both. Even in the field, almost any grade will make the tractor labor and sometimes require a lower gear. The lighter Kubotas, like my L4300 or N80's very similar L4400 are quite agile machines whether there's a loader mounted or not. Starting from a dead stop in road gear is no hassle and doesn't require much clutch slippage. Contrast this with a heavy rig that might require you to get it moving in a lower gear and then try to shift on the fly....but then I'm talking the 'old school' tractors of my youth.

2. As someone unfamiliar with tractors, an expedition into the unknown with an off-brand is the last thing you need. As has been pointed out by others, the Big Three are big for a reason; a totally polished and professional approach to tractor design, manufacturing, marketing and support. They best meet the user's needs in one or more of these categories. Due to your unfamiliarity (no fault in that, we all had to start somewhere) any issue that arises could easily cascade into something serious before being addressed. That being the case, wouldn't you want to buy from a manufacturer whose products rarely have issues? If issues arose anyway, wouldn't you want a support network that could provide a remedy quickly and easily? A network that would encourage you to resolve seemingly minor problems and issues before they turn serious?

3. It would be good to choose a tractor that helps you keep your options open. Big tractors are great. However, at some point the work that justified a behemoth will be done and only the recurring small and medium jobs will remain....jobs the big boy isn't well suited to. Farm out the work that requires heavy equipment and you can get by with something smaller in addition to saving wear and tear on your nice new tractor. Compact size, tight turning ability, and ease of shuttling between forward and reverse are golden qualities when working around trees and structures. You could find ALL of these things in a 40-50HP CUT, but not in larger Ag machines. A good CUT in the HP range indicated could do the small and medium jobs that'll make of the bulk of your work and help clean up after the big jobs. That may be all you ever need. Later on, when you get more experience, you might consider one of those large used Ag tractors that are so readily available in your area as a second machine...if you still need bigger.

In your shoes, I'd be looking at Kubota L4330 to L5030 with HST or New Holland TC40 to TC55 with supersteer & HST. Don't know the JD models, so can't help there. With HST, you'll sacrifice some HP on its way to the ground, but the ease of operation and increased productivity should more than make up for any losses.
FWIW
Bob

1) There is some truth to this. Our 4530 is a heavy 42HP utility tractor. You don't want to take off in high 4th, but it is full synchro, so no big deal shifting a couple of times. However, the 5500/6500 is similar in weight with much more power, and I find them more enjoyable to drive. The 7520 is a hot rod, take off in any gear. Pull into a pile and scoop it up, or just push the entire pile into the next county. With the required projects, I'd not reommend a CUT, at least not a light one. I'd go with a utility tractor. I have both, I sell both.

2) As someone that uses and sells an "off-brand", I am a little offended by this, but we don't want to get a brand war going here, nor do I think you at all mean to be offensive. I'll just say that not all non-big 3 brands are alike. Don't lump them all in one basket. It's not risky to buy a Mahindra, but it is important to have a decent dealer. The dealer network, in most areas, is not as developed as the big 3. If there is little or no dealer presence for a brand in your area, I would pass on that brand.

3) I'd agree if he had 10 acres and just one big project, but at 125 acres, a 75HP machine will be very welcome. I used to dislike the bigger machines until I spent a good deal of time on a 7520. It is quick, turns tight, lifts a lot, etc. Same would go for the modern larger machines of any brand.

 

[BarryinMN]

From your posting it looks like 2 distinct functions.
1. Create roads, housing, access etc.
2. Maintenance

To create an industrial grade TLB, skid steer, dozer etc. are better matched to the task. Knocking down trees, ripping stumps, slamming into virgin soil takes a toll on equipment. Hydraulics, pins, bushings, bucket strength are sized appropriately.

Maintenance and landscaping with an ag tractor is more cost efficient. Tractors and attachments are far cheaper.

Using a new ag tractor to clear land is a quick way to make new look used. Can be done on the cheap if you have the time & patience.

I did not sleep in a Holiday Inn last night, but I do moonlight developing lakefront property. Very small spaces boxed in by willing buyers for the view, environmental constraints, utility easements, and nosy neighbors

As far as an ag tractor recommendation, I was unwilling to part with more cash than necessary to get the job done. Also not sacrifice reliability, durability, fuel efficiency, compatibility, etc. I run year round mowing at +99 and clearing snow at -20F.

Bought a MFWD Zetor: cab with passenger seat, loader with grapple function, 55 PTO hp, misc other stuff. Weighs about 5 tons with air only in the tires.

I put about 100 hours per year on it. I had one warranty claim, the dealer replaced a dead battery. After 3 Summers I had the AC not draining completely (There are drain hoses down both front pillars outside) & dripping inside. Emailed factory tech service for tips & shortcuts to fix it. Now, I bought the 3 ring binders for service manual and parts lists with the tractor. What I got back was a multipage Word document fully illustrated with 1st most likely, 2nd most likely etc. what to look for & clean out.

For parts availability & distribution they are modeled after mother Deere. Possibly because green painted Zetors were sold by mother Deere in some international markets. My JD dozer and Zetor tractor have the same oil filter maybe coincidence but definitely convenient. I have ordered parts for my 1948 JD A and received them. Might get a heart attack paying for them

My most used tool nowdays is a diesel gator, followed by a diesel JD lawnmower, then the tractor.

Maybe someday I'll buy a new big 3 utility class tractor...

Nawwww, I can put the cash difference to work elsewhere for a better return

 

[Soundguy]

Hmm.. what tractors are we talking about that can't pull their own weight?

I have no problem in road gear with my large, balasted, heavy fords toting 10 and 15' mowers, up a hill.. got plenty of throttle left...

I think I'd immediatly park and sell a tractor that couldn't run at pto rpm, in it's highest gear, on at least a moderate grade, towing it's max rated load.

Soundguy

Blu82, A few thoughts:
1. Weight in a tractor is great if you're doing traditional field work with 2WD. Still, I've noticed that taking a tractor that's quite heavy to begin with and then adding an FEL can turn the machine into a real slug. Road gear is often only useful if there's no grade, or nothing in tow, or both. Even in the field, almost any grade will make the tractor labor and sometimes require a lower gear. The lighter Kubotas, like my L4300 or N80's very similar L4400 are quite agile machines whether there's a loader mounted or not. Starting from a dead stop in road gear is no hassle and doesn't require much clutch slippage. Contrast this with a heavy rig that might require you to get it moving in a lower gear and then try to shift on the fly....but then I'm talking the 'old school' tractors of my youth.

Bob

 

[Bob_Young]

I seem to recall some IH models I ran years ago as falling in this category, Chris. They were heavy to begin with and probably well ballasted. Add an FEL to the mix and they had a heckuva job just getting themselves rolling....and we do have hills here. The gassers were particularly bad in this respect, but I seem to recall a diesel or two that had to labor as well.

Of course, that was 70s technology and back then everything was built heavy. But that's not far from what you get with some of the off-brands.
Bob