New Implement Shed

[Q-Saw]

DA -

Great looking building - I too like the roof color. Your mill looks real sharp, it doesn't look like it has very many hours on it, and it looks like it was kept inside. Great find on that one. The winch is awesome too, I've been wanting a Tajfun for quite a while. Great set-up.

I also plan to build a shed for my sawmill, so I will be looking for your thread on that. Great thread and pictures so far - thank you, and keep up the great work!

- Marty

 

[damartin]

Q-Saw thanks for the comments, The sawmill was kept inside and it only has about 470 hours on it. I was planning to start on the sawmill building soon but I think I'll wait until Spring as hunting season will start soon and also I don't want it to turn into a job, It's supposed to be a hobby and I think I'll keep it that way. I do cover the mill with a tarp and maintain it well, it should still be in good shape if I get it under roof next year.
The winch does work extremly well and I think Tajfun is one of the best in the industry.
If we get a late fall (no frost until after deer season) I may get the Sono Tubes in the ground and filled with concrete this year. That would make it easy to start on the pole building in the spring. My neighbor up at the cabin showed me serveral adds for used trusses in the "Lancaster Farming Magazine". For a 30' span I think trusses are the best option for the roof.
I'm trying to decide on making my own trusses or buying used but the used ones would be a lot less work and probably less than $500.00.
Make sure you post pictures when you start building your sawmill shed.

 

[MNBobcat]

Very nice job! I bet the sawmill is fun (as well as practical)

If you don't mind, I have a few quick questions. I may build something like this next year. How deep did you set the treated 4" x 6"s? Were there footings or did you auger a hole and drop them in? Were they set in concrete?

 

[damartin]

MN, the posts are set 36" in the ground on rocks with clay under that. I didn't think it was necessary for concrete under the posts because the clay is very solid. There are also alot of rocks tamped very tightly around the posts when we backfilled the holes.
Last weekend my brother in law and I finished hanging the siding on the back of the shed and on the back gable end. I didn't get any pictures at the time but I got some this weekend, it almost looks finished when looking at the back of the shed.
This weekend a friend that I used to work with helped me frame out the garage door opening and hang the garage door. I need to get a new spring for the garage door as I bought it is used and only 1 spring was included with it. The springs that the hardware stores stock are for 7' doors and I need to get one for a 9' door. That is why the tractor is not in the tractor bay yet.
I need to finish the siding on the front of the shed and do some final grading and then I'll be finished just in time for bow hunting season.

 

[Builder]

Yep, sure will look nice with a gutted 10 point hanging out front there from the garage door header

 

[jayste]

I need to get a new spring for the garage door as I bought it is used and only 1 spring was included with it. The springs that the hardware stores stock are for 7' doors and I need to get one for a 9' door.


DaMartin, did your spring come with the door? Just so you know a lot of doors that size and weight only come with one spring if it's a torsion spring set up. A good rule of thumb for a torsion system is to put 1 turn of the spring for every foot of dppr height. Red color spring is for left side mount and black is for right side mount. Tension applies as you lift up on the wind bars.

Jay

 

[PA hayseed]

Nice job on that shed. I'm sure you will be glad that you did the boards the way you did them in about 2-3 years. Alot of the old timers built sheds like that around here, and they are still standing 40 or more years later. Like you have said, the old timers up here said not to let the siding touch the ground. They say it draws the moisture up into the board rotting the bottoms out first.

Builder told you right, I wouldn't seal those boards till the moisture comes out some. The old timers tell me that when they did houses and garages they would mill it and let it sit for about 2-3 years before using. That is the air dry method and will still leave lots of moisture in the wood, but who has that kinda time anymore? The wood will be exposed outside and will receive new moisture from various sources. I Think you will be fine if you wait to seal it next summer (probably july when its nice and hot and dry). September in PA is the foggiest month, and attempts to seal it now may prove fruitless (especially with it still being green).

How did you lay your boards? Crown out or in? Wood moves alot and can easily bend #10 screws. I'm curious, because there is a lot of discussion in my neck of the woods about the right way to lay vertical boards. Some say the crown doesn't matter, some say it matters if the boards were flatsawn or quartersawn, etc etc. Problem never solved, but lots of beer has been drank discussing it. On second thought, don't solve the problem

 

[Builder]

I'd rather have my boards crowned up. I prefer a hump to a cup, especially on a deck or probably on barn siding. Your 1x2 batts will also not be driven off your pole barn framing if they're humped. Cupping will drive the batts off.

1/4 sawn is more expensive/board foot, but won't shrink or cup, twist as much.

We use a lot of eastern pine and spruce. Cypress is the upgrade for barn lumber around here.

http://www.allwoodwork.com/article/woodwork/plainorquartersawn.htm

 

[Carykong]

I have a personal sawmill,too, LT 25 Woodmizer for 10 years. I would go with a traditional rafter/ridgeboard roof rather than trusses. In the end you will save money in materials,of course, a bit more time to frame but a lot more satisfying. Nice storage area in your attic,too. Truss roofs do not allow much storage in the attic nor is it recommended for structural allowances.

 

[Builder]

I generally feel the same way, however trusses can be bought with attic space cutouts.

I only use trusses when I know there's no way the customer will ever access the area or there's no way to get steps up there.

All that said, 9/10 times, I stick frame with ridge pole & rafters.

In this garage I built this spring, it was a no brainer-tons of attic space to be utilized. Trusses would have been a waste:

 

[damartin]

The springs are extension springs so I will need 2 of them, I'm still looking for a place to buy them. One place that has them will only sell them if they install them and the other place wants $45.00 each and the place I found online wants a check mailed before shipping them, no credit cards. I am going to check at another place tomorrow that I think will have them for a reasonable price.
Builder, I buried some rebar welded to a peice of C channel under the middle bay joist that I can fasten some chain with hooks on in order to skin deer using a chain hoist fastened to the joist above it. I hope that I get to use it soon. By the way I enjoyed reading your thread on the garage that you built with the covered walkway, I would love to have that garage at home.
I always lay the crown of the board up when building a deck but didn't even think about it for the vertical siding. I just put the side with the nicest grain out.
Maybe I'll get some bowing both ways. I know that there are alot of barns near my home (Lancaster County) with Hemlock siding and the the boards are not bowed much at all. I could be wrong but I thought that hanging vertically, the boards would stay relatively straight.
I still haven't decided on trusses or rafters for the sawmill shed but I was thinking that maybe I should build the enclosed part smaller with rafters and a knee wall would be a good idea. Then I could attach a lean to roof to the side for the sawmill. That way the sawmill would be covered but with open sides the sawdust and engine exhaust would be less of a problem when running it.

 

[Builder]

Builder, I buried some rebar welded to a peice of C channel under the middle bay joist that I can fasten some chain with hooks on in order to skin deer using a chain hoist fastened to the joist above it. I hope that I get to use it soon.

I wish I still had time to bowhunt....I really miss it. 2 kids in sports and I'm crazy enough to coach football and lacrosse. Good luck this season.

By the way I enjoyed reading your thread on the garage that you built with the covered walkway, I would love to have that garage at home.

Hey Thanks! It was fun to build.

I always lay the crown of the board up when building a deck but didn't even think about it for the vertical siding. I just put the side with the nicest grain out.
Maybe I'll get some bowing both ways. I know that there are alot of barns near my home (Lancaster County) with Hemlock siding and the the boards are not bowed much at all. I could be wrong but I thought that hanging vertically, the boards would stay relatively straight.

I think you'll be fine. I'm overly picky and I get paid to think about stuff like that. You're right, in the vertical position, it's not as critical. I just worry about the wetting/drying cycles. Don't second guess yourself-when installing vertical siding, facing the "show side" out is actually the best way.

I still haven't decided on trusses or rafters for the sawmill shed but I was thinking that maybe I should build the enclosed part smaller with rafters and a knee wall would be a good idea. Then I could attach a lean to roof to the side for the sawmill. That way the sawmill would be covered but with open sides the sawdust and engine exhaust would be less of a problem when running it.

Sounds like a plan! Good luck with it!

 

[Carykong]

cupping with your boards can be minimized in several ways. avoid wide boards. flitch boards should be used for bats, go with a thicker board. use long ring shank nails and be generous during the installation. after installation,spray with a blend of primer or sealer to slow down the drying process. rapid drying and uneven cure can make the boards cup.

 

[Builder]

I spray with seasonite to help stabilize wood.

http://www.owatrol.uk.com/docs/Seasonite.pdf

NWE Paints Ltd 2.5Ltr Seasonite New Wood Treatment

 

[jayste]

The springs are extension springs so I will need 2 of them, I'm still looking for a place to buy them. One place that has them will only sell them if they install them and the other place wants $45.00 each and the place I found online wants a check mailed before shipping them, no credit cards. I am going to check at another place tomorrow that I think will have them for a reasonable price.

I see. I wish I had someone to recommend but I don't. Yes, $45.00 for an extension spring is quite high. Anyway, I too would like to see "old mossey horns" hanging out front! Good luck!

Jay

 

[jayste]

Hey! That's a nice whitetail! What did he dress? 160? 170? Nice looking set of horns. When I see ones like that while bow hunting (not very many) I seem to lose all ability to "focus, draw, anchor..."!!

Jay

 

[theboman]

I hope to start building my shed in the next week, gosh we need it! It'll be 24X16x8 high shed, with an open 24' side if it really matters.

I'll use 2X6 treated for my bottom stringer, and the rest of the materials will be the stuff I had milled up here in June. BO-DADDY was a sawmill man
Boy, I wanna a mill!!

The post will be trees in the 6"+ range, and I think they'll be like all the saw boards in being oak of some sort. The holes will be 2'+ in deep (old fashioned hand phd, unless I find a rental phd for the tractor...no budget to buy one). Posts will not be set in concrete but will have a gravel base at the bottom. Lots of clay up here at Iron Hill and as the names sounds lots and lots of rock/ore too.

I'm using galvanized 20 penny nails for the stringers and then galvanized something for the siding. Maybe screws, maybe nails and I will try to get a nail gun to shoot the siding on.

The stringers will be 2x4 except the bottom as mentioned, and the top will be a 2X6 capped by a 2X4. It's a nice platform to secure the rafters. Ahh, rafters!

I was considering a typical shed roof, but have kinda been admiring salt box look. Know where there are plans to build them? I have a rough idea, but want to see how they are braced so it don't fall (that would keep the forewoman happier too).

Anyhow, my hands are all ready to grab that phd and start a diggin'!! Wanna help?