New Implement Shed

[Q-Saw]

DA -

Great looking building - I too like the roof color. Your mill looks real sharp, it doesn't look like it has very many hours on it, and it looks like it was kept inside. Great find on that one. The winch is awesome too, I've been wanting a Tajfun for quite a while. Great set-up.

I also plan to build a shed for my sawmill, so I will be looking for your thread on that. Great thread and pictures so far - thank you, and keep up the great work!

- Marty

 

[damartin]

Q-Saw thanks for the comments, The sawmill was kept inside and it only has about 470 hours on it. I was planning to start on the sawmill building soon but I think I'll wait until Spring as hunting season will start soon and also I don't want it to turn into a job, It's supposed to be a hobby and I think I'll keep it that way. I do cover the mill with a tarp and maintain it well, it should still be in good shape if I get it under roof next year.
The winch does work extremly well and I think Tajfun is one of the best in the industry.
If we get a late fall (no frost until after deer season) I may get the Sono Tubes in the ground and filled with concrete this year. That would make it easy to start on the pole building in the spring. My neighbor up at the cabin showed me serveral adds for used trusses in the "Lancaster Farming Magazine". For a 30' span I think trusses are the best option for the roof.
I'm trying to decide on making my own trusses or buying used but the used ones would be a lot less work and probably less than $500.00.
Make sure you post pictures when you start building your sawmill shed.

 

[MNBobcat]

Very nice job! I bet the sawmill is fun (as well as practical)

If you don't mind, I have a few quick questions. I may build something like this next year. How deep did you set the treated 4" x 6"s? Were there footings or did you auger a hole and drop them in? Were they set in concrete?

 

[damartin]

MN, the posts are set 36" in the ground on rocks with clay under that. I didn't think it was necessary for concrete under the posts because the clay is very solid. There are also alot of rocks tamped very tightly around the posts when we backfilled the holes.
Last weekend my brother in law and I finished hanging the siding on the back of the shed and on the back gable end. I didn't get any pictures at the time but I got some this weekend, it almost looks finished when looking at the back of the shed.
This weekend a friend that I used to work with helped me frame out the garage door opening and hang the garage door. I need to get a new spring for the garage door as I bought it is used and only 1 spring was included with it. The springs that the hardware stores stock are for 7' doors and I need to get one for a 9' door. That is why the tractor is not in the tractor bay yet.
I need to finish the siding on the front of the shed and do some final grading and then I'll be finished just in time for bow hunting season.

 

[Builder]

Yep, sure will look nice with a gutted 10 point hanging out front there from the garage door header

 

[jayste]

I need to get a new spring for the garage door as I bought it is used and only 1 spring was included with it. The springs that the hardware stores stock are for 7' doors and I need to get one for a 9' door.


DaMartin, did your spring come with the door? Just so you know a lot of doors that size and weight only come with one spring if it's a torsion spring set up. A good rule of thumb for a torsion system is to put 1 turn of the spring for every foot of dppr height. Red color spring is for left side mount and black is for right side mount. Tension applies as you lift up on the wind bars.

Jay

 

[PA hayseed]

Nice job on that shed. I'm sure you will be glad that you did the boards the way you did them in about 2-3 years. Alot of the old timers built sheds like that around here, and they are still standing 40 or more years later. Like you have said, the old timers up here said not to let the siding touch the ground. They say it draws the moisture up into the board rotting the bottoms out first.

Builder told you right, I wouldn't seal those boards till the moisture comes out some. The old timers tell me that when they did houses and garages they would mill it and let it sit for about 2-3 years before using. That is the air dry method and will still leave lots of moisture in the wood, but who has that kinda time anymore? The wood will be exposed outside and will receive new moisture from various sources. I Think you will be fine if you wait to seal it next summer (probably july when its nice and hot and dry). September in PA is the foggiest month, and attempts to seal it now may prove fruitless (especially with it still being green).

How did you lay your boards? Crown out or in? Wood moves alot and can easily bend #10 screws. I'm curious, because there is a lot of discussion in my neck of the woods about the right way to lay vertical boards. Some say the crown doesn't matter, some say it matters if the boards were flatsawn or quartersawn, etc etc. Problem never solved, but lots of beer has been drank discussing it. On second thought, don't solve the problem

 

[Builder]

I'd rather have my boards crowned up. I prefer a hump to a cup, especially on a deck or probably on barn siding. Your 1x2 batts will also not be driven off your pole barn framing if they're humped. Cupping will drive the batts off.

1/4 sawn is more expensive/board foot, but won't shrink or cup, twist as much.

We use a lot of eastern pine and spruce. Cypress is the upgrade for barn lumber around here.

http://www.allwoodwork.com/article/woodwork/plainorquartersawn.htm

 

[Carykong]

I have a personal sawmill,too, LT 25 Woodmizer for 10 years. I would go with a traditional rafter/ridgeboard roof rather than trusses. In the end you will save money in materials,of course, a bit more time to frame but a lot more satisfying. Nice storage area in your attic,too. Truss roofs do not allow much storage in the attic nor is it recommended for structural allowances.

 

[Builder]

I generally feel the same way, however trusses can be bought with attic space cutouts.

I only use trusses when I know there's no way the customer will ever access the area or there's no way to get steps up there.

All that said, 9/10 times, I stick frame with ridge pole & rafters.

In this garage I built this spring, it was a no brainer-tons of attic space to be utilized. Trusses would have been a waste: