New Lawn for new house - looking for input and advice

[serfas1988]

Hi,

We recently finished building a house and I'm getting ready to do the lawn this fall. Currently, the area where the lawn will be going is mostly backfill from the house that was rough graded by my excavation contractor and an area over the septic field.

My equipment is an L3301 with a FEL and a box blade. I also have access to a landscape rake if I need it. Big implements like a pto tiller aren't really in the budget right now so I'd like to try and complete this with what I have. I could buy or build a drag mat if need be though.

My planned approach right now is to:
1) Remove all the large rocks/roots/debris from the area
2) Loosen up the existing soil with the scarifiers on my box blade and remove any existing weeds
3) Spread a layer of topsoil to a min of 6" depth over the existing soil and smooth it out with the box blade and raking by hand
4) Fertilize, seed and water

Am I missing anything? Can I do this with just my box blade and FEL? Any input and advice would be appreciated.

Thank you!

 

[Diggin It]

3) Spread a layer of topsoil to a min of 6" depth over the existing soil and smooth it out with the box blade and raking by hand

Depending on how much area you're talking about, that could be many truckloads and exceed the cost of a tiller and they ain't no way I'd be raking that all by hand. Then what happens when the big rainstorm passes before the seed takes hold? Wanna see your money go down the drain? Literally?

You might be better off getting some other organic waste material and buying (or renting) a tiller to work it in.

Drag/chain harrow of some sort before and after the seed. Roller to compact the seed into the dirt. Cover with hay/straw or similar.

One tip for a landscape rake if you get one. Use a chain in place of the top link. Set it to just skim the surface for the first few passes. That will allow it to float and be less prone to digging in when the front wheels go over small rises or humps. Done right, you can pull the tops off those small humps and move the material to fill in the low spots. Takes some practice though.

I've made a couple of small drags using old fence wire wrapped around wood posts or pallets for weight. Ugly as can be, but they've worked for what I needed them to do.

 

[serfas1988]

Depending on how much area you're talking about, that could be many truckloads and exceed the cost of a tiller and they ain't no way I'd be raking that all by hand

I'm not putting in a big lawn (I hate mowing). Total area might be a less than 1/2 of an acre. I had planned to mostly spread the top soil it with the box blade and then touch it up with a landscape rake.

The backfill I'm working with is more like gravel and not even weeds seem to grow on it. That's why I thought I'd need a thick layer of topsoil.

Then what happens when the big rainstorm passes before the seed takes hold? Wanna see your money go down the drain? Literally?

This is why I asked for help. I want to do it right the first time if I can and not waste my time and money. I see a lot of the new builds around me just lay the topsoil over the backfill and plant their grass - they don't seem to till or break up the existing soil at all. I'm not saying that's the right way to do it, but that's what I based my planned approach on.

You might be better off getting some other organic waste material and buying (or renting) a tiller to work it in.

I can't rent seem to rent a PTO roto tiller locally. Is there anything else that would work? If what I'm starting with is gravel will I still need a layer of top soil even if I till in decent soil or organic waste?

Thanks for your input.

 

[jeff9366]

I recommend having your soil tested and then amend per soil test results for whatever grass type you will sow.

A soil test in Florida costs less than $10.

Grass seed in the South requires bright light to germinate. Therefore, rolling in seed is preferable to covering seed.

Sow grass seed before it gets hot in SJC, prior to forecast rain. Roll in immediately after rain. Irragate young grass every day or the fertilizer will burn it.

 

[jaydee325]

Agree with soil test and go accordingly.

In SW Michigan, the best time to put in a new lawn is late August to September. Otherwise, you are fighting weeds all summer. My neighbor tried the spring lawn approach, even though I told him to wait, and he wasted his money on the first try and tilled everything under in the fall and did it over!

Also, water, water, water.

Contact your local county extension office. Lots of free information for your area on horticulture/agriculture.

 

[WVH1977]

I rented a Harley Rake when I did a yard years ago. You can probably get one for a few hundred over a weekend. This will save you a lot of headache and hand raking as far as leveling everything out. I always put Lime out with fertilizer and put straw down and as others have stated keep the water on it. You need to run an aerator as well to push that grass seed in the ground.

I have a soil pulverizer now that I bought for 500 bucks. I use that with box blade and york rake currently on my new stuff I am planting.

 

[ovrszd]

By your description, you definitely need top soil hauled in. Then a drag or land plane to get it smooth. That's very important. Imperfections that are present when you seed will be there for years to come.

A cultipacker is the best tool for covering seed. Keep in mind the ideal burial depth of grass seed is 150% of the seed's length. Very shallow. You should be able to still see a small percentage of your seed laying on top when you are done. That's why the cultipacker is so efficient. It simply presses the seed into the topsoil without burying it too deep.

Another possible option is to rent a seeder that goes on your tractor 3pt. Depending on model, it will lightly till the soil, plant the seed and cultipack behind the seed, all in one trip. You still need to do the leveling prior to it's use.

Lastly, my Nephew owns/operates a sod farm. I consider him an expert on seeding. He says when you scatter the seed you should not be able to put your thumb on the ground without touching a seed. Think about that. Don't go cheap on the amount of seed you apply. If you do, you'll have a cheap yard. He recommends 300lbs of a mixed variety per acre.

I built a drag and worked my yard for hours and hours. I spread my seed with a 3pt fan seeder. Then went over it with a cultipacker. I also applied 200lbs p/acre of 12-12-12 pelleted fertilizer. I seeded right after Labor Day.

Lastly, all advice/opinions you get here are based on the giver's location. I'm in Northern Missouri.

 

[WVH1977]

By your description, you definitely need top soil hauled in. Then a drag or land plane to get it smooth. That's very important. Imperfections that are present when you seed will be there for years to come.

A cultipacker is the best tool for covering seed. Keep in mind the ideal burial depth of grass seed is 150% of the seed's length. Very shallow. You should be able to still see a small percentage of your seed laying on top when you are done. That's why the cultipacker is so efficient. It simply presses the seed into the topsoil without burying it too deep.

Another possible option is to rent a seeder that goes on your tractor 3pt. Depending on model, it will lightly till the soil, plant the seed and cultipack behind the seed, all in one trip. You still need to do the leveling prior to it's use.

Lastly, my Nephew owns/operates a sod farm. I consider him an expert on seeding. He says when you scatter the seed you should not be able to put your thumb on the ground without touching a seed. Think about that. Don't go cheap on the amount of seed you apply. If you do, you'll have a cheap yard. He recommends 300lbs of a mixed variety per acre.

I built a drag and worked my yard for hours and hours. I spread my seed with a 3pt fan seeder. Then went over it with a cultipacker. I also applied 200lbs p/acre of 12-12-12 pelleted fertilizer. I seeded right after Labor Day.

Lastly, all advice/opinions you get here are based on the giver's location. I'm in Northern Missouri.

 

[serfas1988]

Some great advice in this thread - thanks everyone for the input.

 

[RalphVa]

I would not fertilize grass seed. I don't even fertilize my lawn.

Agree re the soil test. Their fertilizer recommendations will not be based on the soil test because they cannot test for nitrogen. I volunteered at the extension office for nearly 20 years. I would not worry about getting soil pH to almost 7 either. Near 6 is good enough.

The test will mainly tell you if you're missing some vital nutrients.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

We were advised to not final grade the drain field until after a winter freeze and thaw... it will settle.

I slice seeded 2 acres, fertilized, and the lawn came in great.

 

[ovrszd]

We were advised to not final grade the drain field until after a winter freeze and thaw... it will settle.

Yep. I seeded a year after all my digging was completed.

 

[WVH1977]

One thing I will say about developing a good lawn is it takes a lot of money and upkeep to keep it going. You have to be dedicated to it for any success. You have to fully commit to it. I would say I am 3/4 committed. When the weeds get green in summer they look good when cut.

 

[brokeasajoke]

I honestly just spread Kentucky 31 over my fill dirt then covered in straw/hay. When it began germinating well I added fertilize and lime. I do have quite a bit of clover and dandelions now which I need to address. This was in the mountains of North Carolina so your results may vary. Getting topsoil was just not an option.

 

[ovrszd]

One thing I will say about developing a good lawn is it takes a lot of money and upkeep to keep it going. You have to be dedicated to it for any success. You have to fully commit to it. I would say I am 3/4 committed. When the weeds get green in summer they look good when cut.

I tried that philosophy without success. I am more tolerant that my wife. So to keep peace I work harder at yard maintenance.

I once complained to my Nephew, the Sod Farmer guy, about the cost of grass seed. He said, "hire me to sod your yard and you'll get over it".

I fertilize every Spring. I just finished spraying the entire yard with 2-4-D. I mow somewhere around 2.5 acres.

 

[LD1]

How old is the build.

It would be a shame to put alot of money in a nice yard to end up with crap in a year.

Every place that was dug needs a good year to quit settling. So around the house/basement....all your septic trenches/tank....all utilities, etc. Make sure it's DONE settling then do a hard ONCE.

Don't know about Canada....but best time here for new install is fall. Less chance of downpours ruining hard work.

I agree with soil test. Because 6" over half an acre is about 400 yards. Round here that would be about 20 full-sized dump truck loads at $500 a pop. So a 3ph tiller not in the budget....how's $10,000 of top soil gonna do you?

 

[ovrszd]

I honestly just spread Kentucky 31 over my fill dirt then covered in straw/hay. When it began germinating well I added fertilize and lime. I do have quite a bit of clover and dandelions now which I need to address. This was in the mountains of North Carolina so your results may vary. Getting topsoil was just not an option.

A friend of mine once told me to mulch with good quality grass hay. He said you gain a LOT of seed in that process.

In my 3 year old yard I'm now trying to get control of the clover and dandelions.

 

[duffer]

Unless you're an absolute master with a box blade, you won't get it as smooth as you might want. I used my FEL and back-dragged the area after I spread the soil with the box blade. Worked really well in filling in the little dips and ruts.

Build yourself the chain link fence drag others have suggested and use that AFTER you seed. It will bury the seeds just enough.

Top it all off with straw to keep it from eroding, water it 3-4 times a day to keep it moist (but not muddy) and you'll have a lawn in 14 days if you do it when the soil temps are at the optimal temp for your particular seed.

 

[LD1]

A friend of mine once told me to mulch with good quality grass hay. He said you gain a LOT of seed in that process.

In my 3 year old yard I'm now trying to get control of the clover and dandelions.

Clover laughs at 24d.

Gotta spray a good 3-way like triplet. Quart and a half per acre. Spring before dandelions go to seed. Then again on fall when clover is sitting away nutrients to the roots. Following year you should have an all grass lawn. Triplet is about 3x the cost of 24d....but it works.

And mow at 4". Too many people scalp their lawns and wonder why weeds take over and their grass doesn't look healthy

 

[ovrszd]

Clover laughs at 24d.

Gotta spray a good 3-way like triplet. Quart and a half per acre. Spring before dandelions go to seed. Then again on fall when clover is sitting away nutrients to the roots. Following year you should have an all grass lawn. Triplet is about 3x the cost of 24d....but it works.

And mow at 4". Too many people scalp their lawns and wonder why weeds take over and their grass doesn't look healthy

Yeah, I've never understood the scalping thing. Until it dries up later in the Summer I'll mow every 4 days or so. I prefer to cut less than 50% of the stand height.