Rivco said:
Kent;
My mistake- the number should be:
200 200 F30 13 AAAAA
(series) (12.5 CI.) (4 flange ) (1" tapered shaft) (options)
I confirmed this with whites tech. support dept. If you look at page 13 (ordering info. ) of Whites web site ( catalog information- PDF. ) for the RS motors it will give you the breakdown on this motor. The 180 and according to terry ( from what he told you ) the earlier 422/425's use/used the same motor- P141X12. DISCLAIMER: I researched this information for my own interests, and I'm only going by what white hydraulics told me.You should contact white hydraulics and power trac to verify this information for your own use.
Thanks for all your help, and your patience. I'm looking at several different options for different wheel motors now. However, this has now ruled out the "Stray mod" of changing from parallel to serial "plumbing" to increase the torque -- the 12.5 ci RS motors have a max pressure (peak) of 2250 PSI and 1500 PSI continuous. They won't handle the potential 3000 PSI of changing the plumbing...
The larger RS series White motors won't even comfortably handle the current 1500 PSI tram pump setting -- being rated for 1000 PSI continuous, 1250 PSI intermittent and 1500 PSI max. While they might work, on my hillsides I can see myself potentially spending too much time about the 1000 PSI point. So, that has me looking for other brand/type motors...
So far, I've gotten a good price quote for Char-Lynn Series W motors, and want to see if I can get a quote on Char-Lynn S series, since they would appear to require less modification. After looking at the S series specs more closely, I see that you can special order a 1" tapered shaft though it is not a "pre-specced" part number.
Since it appears I have 1" tapered shafts, if I go to 1.25" tapered shafts, like the Char-Lynn series W, I'd have to go to PT to buy the front hubs in order to use the parking brake, so that limits the options. I could likely order two hubs for the rear from
Surplus Center. If I go to 1.375" tapered shafts, I think I'd be required to go to a different brake setup entirely...
Now I'm beginning to better understand why Terry's quote was so high -- though I still think it was out of my budget -- since the way they'd perform the upgrade would require new mounting "boxes", new wheel motors,
and new hubs, in addition to the labor of removing the old mounting box and installing the new ones...
So, it looks like johari's mod may be the best alternative -- assuming that the physical size of the mounting boxes are the same on his tractor and mine... no new hubs, no new mounting box required....