new or used tractor for farm?

[BillG_in_TX]

I will have to take another look at the Kubotas too, especially since the dealer will be a new neighbor. They did have a couple of newer used tractors there that looked pretty good, including a 2000 M5400 4wd with loader for ~$14,000.

Ron,

I'm no expert, but it seems to me that the 4WD M5400 w/FEL for $14,000 sounds like a very good deal, and a good fit for your needs. Especially if it's in good shape and from a dealer that you trust.

 

[Keith_B]

Ron,

I'm no expert, but it seems to me that the 4WD M5400 w/FEL for $14,000 sounds like a very good deal, and a good fit for your needs. Especially if it's in good shape and from a dealer that you trust.

Sounds like a pretty good price to me as well, assuming it isn't overloaded with hours and is in good shape.

 

[Kendall69]

I would NEVER EVER get anything that is not 4x4. Heck I’ve seen pickups get stuck on wet grass. I rented a 2wd tractor before I purchased, when the guy dropped it off I headed into the property and it got buried in sand up to the axles. I called him up before he got back to the rental yard and said come pick it up, this thing is useless. They had NO 4x4 to rent city wide, I went the next day and got a 4x4.
Even if you use it a few times, those few time will save you hours if not a day in wasted time. Nothing worse that getting all prepped for a day on the tractor and getting it stuck, then spending the time to get it unstuck etc, when all you would've had to do was throw a lever. And if your many acres back in,and have to walk back to get a truck to get you unstuck - no thanks. Been there done that, got the T shirt.

 

[Soundguy]

I can personally guarantee you that just having 4wd does not mean that you will never get stuck. And that story about flipping a lever and driving out.. that might as well be on the sunday comics page.

I've been stuck on a tractor exactly 1 time. it was on a CUT with 4wd.. and it was so stuck it took 2 trucks, tow cables, and 4 men with shovels and timber to get her out. Flipping the 4wd lever just burried her that last few inches so that she went from just 'high centered.. to burried to the op platform.

Conversly.. I've never been stuck on my 2wd units...

The persons intended use and land type will dictate if he needs 4wd. ( If ya live on pancake flat well packed good draining land.. it may not be a necescity ( though it's deffinately good to have.. no argument there. )

soundguy

 

[john_bud]

Thanks for the thoughtful responses --


john_bud, I am not all that handy, have no experience with tractors, and like you say, I am more interested in getting work done. You mention that the JD may be a bit light on hp -- what would you recomend for 5-10 acres of food plots, and a similar amount of mowing?

Thanks,
Ron

Ron, Don't sweat not being handy or experienced with tractors. The deal with hp is a matter of compromise and trade offs. Less hp means you use a smaller attachment and make more passes. Sometimes a lot more passes, especially with tillage equipment and mowing equipment. So, you have to figure out how much time you want to spend cutting, tilling, etc and see what that will cost. Reading you replys - I think you will be just fine with the JD 5103. The used Kubota would be good too, but you may feel better getting a NEW first tractor.

I would get the FEL. unless you don't have any rocks to collect and move out of your fields. FEL is the most used thing on my tractors. If you are doing food plots, a water feature is important. A shallow pool 2' deep and 20'x20' is fantastic. That's small enough to do with an FEL or cheap enough to farm out to a BH operator.

I am a 4x4 fan, but not a fanatic. For your needs, 2wd with fluid filled ag tires, wheel weights and something heavy on the back will work fine. Tip: Find a tractor junk yard and price out wheel weights there -- much cheaper than from a dealer.


jb

 

[BarryinMN]

Since you have narrowed your search see if the dealers will bring over a tractor to test on your land then write a check for the keeper. Since woods slopes are a concern be sure to run thru there. If you find yourself stopped & wheels spinning too easily or unable to steer maybe step up to MFWD. My guess is the previous landowner got by with 2wd and local dealers stock primarily 2wd because it works with the local land characteristics.

A loader will prove invaluable to your back soon enough & add pallet forks and a grapple of sorts as well. These will simplify moving materials and speed cleanup, storm damage etc. Quick attach loaders - I only removed mine once to do service & even then the permanently attached parts of the loader frame on the tractor blocked easy access to the fuel filter. I also have a 2wd 1970 TLB with a permanent loader - worse for access but still no big deal.

Food plots with water is a wildlife magnet - buy a backhoe or dozer & build a pond and maintain it

 

[ron_sc]

That used 2000 model 4wd M5400 with loader for $14k at the Kubota dealer had about 1600 hours on it, and had been used in a chicken house. The dealer has just put a clutch in it. The tractor seemed fairly dirty, and the ROPS was cut off. Maybe I'll go take another look at it. I don't really care what it looks like if it will be reliable. As I said, the dealer is only 1.5 miles away, they have a good reputation in the area, and seem like good people to me.

Regarding the food plots and water -- one of my first plans is to build a 2-4 acre pond. There is a spring-fed creek along the center of the property. One of the reasons I don't want to spend too much on the tractor is that I'm also saving up for the pond construction.

Ron

 

[BillG_in_TX]

... and the ROPS was cut off.

Ron,

I can't imagine that the dealer would (or even could) sell the tractor with the ROPS cut off, so if you buy it, make sure that a new ROPS is included in the price.

 

[john_bud]

That used 2000 model 4wd M5400 with loader for $14k at the Kubota dealer had about 1600 hours on it, and had been used in a chicken house. The dealer has just put a clutch in it. The tractor seemed fairly dirty, and the ROPS was cut off. Maybe I'll go take another look at it. I don't really care what it looks like if it will be reliable. As I said, the dealer is only 1.5 miles away, they have a good reputation in the area, and seem like good people to me.

Regarding the food plots and water -- one of my first plans is to build a 2-4 acre pond. There is a spring-fed creek along the center of the property. On of the reasons I don't want to spend too much on the tractor is that I'm also saving up for the pond construction.

Ron

The ROPS was probably removed for clearance reasons. Not a big deal, but you would want one to help save you bones from being crushed into a pink paste during a rollover.

BUT - the chicken chit is hard on the tractor. Also the clutch being out at 1600 hours tells me a lot --- none of it good for you. The tractor was probably used to clean out chicken byproducts and other loader duties. The front end is probably very worn. The seals may be in tough shape. Loader bearings and pins are probably in need of replacement. The trans may have had some abuse too. Gear trans are tough, but easy to abuse and damage by popping the clutch, clashing gears etc. That sounds like a tractor that was run hard and put away wet. My advice is to skip that one! The $2k difference is not worth it.

I'll stand by the 5103 call for now.



On the pond. If it is just for wildlife and not for aesthetic purposes, it's larger than needed. You would do better to make several secluded puddles in thick brush 50-75 yards from the edge of the food plots. A 10x20', 20x20' and 10x30' puddle that will stay at 1-2' depth is fantastic. Even if the water looks nasty to us!

Make the food plots in the shape of a "V" or "W". The stands should be at the points. The puddles should be either in the middle of the "V" or on an outside upwind leg. Orient them so that the prevailing winds can be used to your advantage. Primary stands where you can look down 2 legs, secondary where you can look down 1 leg. Shorter, narrower and twisty is better than a 5 acre field. You want to design the plots so the deer bed, eat and sleep on your property in a spot that is secluded for them, yet allows you easy non-intrusive access to the stands.

 

[ron_sc]

"BUT - the chicken chit is hard on the tractor. Also the clutch being out at 1600 hours tells me a lot --- none of it good for you. The tractor was probably used to clean out chicken byproducts and other loader duties. The front end is probably very worn. The seals may be in tough shape. Loader bearings and pins are probably in need of replacement. The trans may have had some abuse too."

Yes, I think the tractor was used as you describe. I probably should pass on that one. I don't have enough experience to make good judgement on the condition of seals, bearings, pins, etc.

"On the pond. If it is just for wildlife and not for aesthetic purposes, it's larger than needed. You would do better to make several secluded puddles in thick brush 50-75 yards from the edge of the food plots. A 10x20', 20x20' and 10x30' puddle that will stay at 1-2' depth is fantastic. Even if the water looks nasty to us!"

This pond will be mainly for fishing (bluegill/bass/catfish) and aesthetic purposes -- that's why I want 2-3 acres. It would not be hard to make some small puddles like you suggest in some other areas, but they would probably dry out from time to time, because they are not in wet drainages. I like your ideas for the V and W food plot designs.

There are also about 6 or 7 acres of low bottomland that could be converted into shallow ponds of different sizes (waterfowl?) at some point. This area would be easy to keep flooded, because the spring starts at an elevation of about 60' above the bottomland.
I guess we're getting off the main subject..

R