New owner old Yanmar

[prb51]

Howdy from Arizona,
I've just purchased a US recon YM2000D w/ ROPS, Koyker 120, 4' box blade, 5' adj. straight blade. The tractor has 636 hrs on it.
I've a 10 acre horse property on a dirt road so am looking fwd to being able to manage the property better with this 'tool'.
I've never owned a tractor so will be asking questions etc of you experienced types. I like to do my own wrenching too.
The tractor has yet to be delivered, any initial advice pertaining to the running, maint of the 2000?
Pat

 

[California]

Welcome aboard! My Yanmar is the US twin to your YM2000, and I'm told it was used the first 10-15 years at a riding stable. Take a look at the sales brochures referenced from my sig, below. (I wish mine had 4wd).

You probably know this, but YM2000 has the best parts support of any Yanmar, probably even better than most US tractors that old.

And they are indestructible. When I bought mine, I surely made every beginner's mistake. Killing the charging system with my pressure washer was the only thing it noticed. I learned (here) that Autozone has the alternator and regulator, total cost under $60. How's that for parts support. (Tell Autozone it's a 72 Datsun). There are several dealers who post here who can provide the Yanmar-specific parts if needed.

It won't need much wrenching. My only repairs have been replacing loader hoses that I snagged while moving downed trees in my orchard. This is clearly user abuse, not a reflection on Yanmar.

Welcome!

 

[prb51]

Cali,
Thanks for the welcome.
I noted the wheel change on your Tractor. I have sandy/rocky soil that's well compacted (except the sandy wash/arroyo) and rolling so may have the same stability issue you addressed with the tires.
Which Kubota wheels did you use and what size tires? Was it hard to locate the wheels and how did you go about that?
I had been borrowing my neighbors old Massy F (80 hp gas motor) but didn't want to wear him out.
Thanks for the parts info.
Did you install a temp gauge...I'm not much on an idiot light for that in our 100 deg. plus weather.

 

[California]

I noted the wheel change on your Tractor.

...may have the same stability issue you addressed with the tires. Which Kubota wheels did you use and what size tires?

Did you install a temp gauge...I'm not much on an idiot light for that in our 100 deg. plus weather.

A previous owner put those wheels on. Tires 12.4x24, rims 11 inch, discs are original US Yanmar. Wheel/tire source unknown.

Even this needed full water ballast in the back tires (250 lbs each) before it quit feeling spooky on any side slopes. And that wasn't enough ballast alone to offset the loader. I've always kept the box blade or other implement on to offset the loader. With your narrower stance I urge you to get a ROPS. About $650. Check LMTC, or Hoye.

After putting the ROPS on mine I reduced the tire ballast to 50% (all water) because all that weight was noticeable going uphill. But that gave up some of the traction that had been helpful for discing. I only disc a few hours/year so 50% water in those big tires is the best compromise.

See the Goodyear Ag Tire Book (online) for ballast weight/tire size charts.

I bought a nice temp gauge, but then discovered if you keep the radiator screen clean it is impossible to overheat this tractor. I never installed the gauge. Want it for a good price? One reason this works well is the previous owner had the radiator rodded out so it meets specs. You may need to do that.

I bought one of those little $10 infrared non-contact thermometers from HF and after discing, my hardest use, I can't find anything but the exhaust manifold that is over 190 degrees. The cooling system was designed for running a huge rototiller at full hp for the life of the tractor. Our US use is usually lighter. I recommend bring the cooling system up to spec and forget the temp gauge.

 

[prb51]

The tractor has a ROPS installed w/seatbelt etc. It is a reconditioned unit that was done (recon mechanically too) in the US to US safety standards so hopefully the radiator etc. are up to snuff.
I have an infrared temp sensor so I'll try that first prior to the gauge
Ok, newbie question, how does one put water ballast into the tires? I'd hazard a guess but might as well ask.
I'd feel safer with the wider tires/stance so I'll look around.

 

[California]

how does one put water ballast into the tires?

just cobble together an adapter from garden hose to 3/8 pipe thread, then put an inflator head on that. I have an old picture on here somewhere but I don't have time to search for it right now.

Stop to vent off air pressure once in a while as the tire fills. Put the valve at the top for testing, so it doesn't blow water into your gauge.

Note this is for your non-freezing climate. Folks, don't use straight water anyplace where standing water freezes hard!


You probably already know this: On a 4x4, replacement tires must have the same rolling circumference, to keep the front/rear axle revolutions the same.

 

[NCGMAN]

You could switch the tires from right to left, and left to right. That is if your wheels are the type that are curved inward. They sale a tool for putting water in the tires, I got mine at Tractor Supply. I put a gallon of antifreeze in each tire, this solves the freezing problem. It is a slow process with the water. That was on a Yanmar 2000 I had once. Yes the narrow tire width is scarey... Enjoy....

 

[prb51]

Thanks, I'll check out the tractor supply and the wheels are dished and reversable but that only adds about 4" to the base. Still, better than nothing and I'll drive it a bit to get the feel.

 

[Lasgambler]

I found the fittings to load my tires at NAPA. I also put a gallon of Seirra antifreeze in each tire. Makes a big diff. in operating my tractor as the rears are 17.5X24 R4 which means about 500 pounds X 2.

 

[prb51]

LasG,
We have a NAPA in Wickenburg so I'll check it out.
Another newbie question...how can you gauge the amount of water in each tire to make them even...(I'll not need any antifreeze) if using a hose?
What would you recommend for water fill on the 24x9.5 tires?

 

[Lasgambler]

prb51, Your 9.5x24 will hold about 20 gal. each or an added 167 pounds per tire based on a 75% fill. I placed my valve stems at 1 Oclock to accomplish filling just above the inside top of wheel. The valves from NAPA have a bleeder on the side so you can check your progress by turning off supply and pressing the bleeder to see if you have reached the fill level. I got my water valves in Lake Havasu City. Good Luck

 

[svcguy]

Another possibility are the extensions originally manufactured for that particular tractor in the States.

YM240D hub extensions:

Flanges are 6.855 across, .867 thick.
Hub is 6.905 wide, outside to outside (including flanges). Accuracy .001
Axle side hub is drilled, other threaded for lug nuts.
Axle side hub recessed to accomodate axle flange 3.716 x .564 deep.
Flange for rim, 3.721 x .289 high.
Inside diam of pipe 2.108
Outside diam of pipe 2.740

In the original parts book, this is part of the 'adjustable rear system' with a reference to it as a 'extension, rear shaft'. I have them mounted on my YM240 and they really help. I do not run ballast in my tires, but made large wheel weights for mine.

Attached are three pics, one of the hub, one mounted and the tractor.

 

[LMTC]

Tom,
Would you please post the page or section # in the parts manual that shows this adjustable rear system. I was not aware it was actually in the parts book, though I am aware it was provided by Yanmar at one point. Thanks.

 

[YM-135trac]

Another possibility are the extensions originally manufactured for that particular tractor in the States.

YM240D hub extensions:

Flanges are 6.855 across, .867 thick.
Hub is 6.905 wide, outside to outside (including flanges). Accuracy .001
Axle side hub is drilled, other threaded for lug nuts.
Axle side hub recessed to accomodate axle flange 3.716 x .564 deep.
Flange for rim, 3.721 x .289 high.
Inside diam of pipe 2.108
Outside diam of pipe 2.740

In the original parts book, this is part of the 'adjustable rear system' with a reference to it as a 'extension, rear shaft'. I have them mounted on my YM240 and they really help. I do not run ballast in my tires, but made large wheel weights for mine.

Attached are three pics, one of the hub, one mounted and the tractor.

Man, thats neat.... Oh, your last pic (showing front of trac) shows front wheels in narrow stance.I think, swaping left/right wheels should widen front stance too?

 

[prb51]

Svcguy,
That would really solve the problem. Where did you find/buy them and were they expensive?
I found the part number....794240-83200 listed in the old parts manual thru a phonecall but they are checking on availability.
Thanks for the info.

 

[prb51]

Svcguy,
How about a pic/description of your wheel weights. I can fabricate (actually my friend Roger the welder can) locally.

 

[California]

last pic (showing front of trac) shows front wheels in narrow stance.I think, swaping left/right wheels should widen front stance too?

Just my personal opinion - I think for the front it is a good idea to keep the wheel centered over the inner and outer wheel bearings, to keep the stresses where the designer intended.

I don't think the front is going to help much in resisting a rollover. By the time the chassis (engine block) comes down to hit the top of the axle, you would be tipped pretty steep, maybe beyond the point of recovery.

Then snapping an overstressed spindle would tumble you over for sure.


I see those rear wheel spacers in YM240 Operation, and YM240 Parts, under Optional Equipment at the back of the book.

Incidentally, I also see optional stiffener discs that go outside the front wheels. "For Loader Work etc". They are shown only in the YM195 (YM1700) column and show four lug holes, so they fit the 2wd only. Maybe the 6 lug 4wd wheels are stronger.

I could sure use a couple of those discs. I've never folded over a wheel, but the previous owner must have abused this thing, or never tightened the lugs. Both front wheels have weld-repaired spiderweb cracks. I finally bought a pair of correct used wheels in good condition.

I'm interested in the rear wheel weights too. The manual shows a '25' (Kg?) next to the wheel then two 20's that are flat discs. I assume this gives about 140 lbs per side.

 

[YM-135trac]

Just my personal opinion - I think for the front it is a good idea to keep the wheel centered over the inner and outer wheel bearings, to keep the stresses where the designer intended.

I don't think the front is going to help much in resisting a rollover. By the time the chassis (engine block) comes down to hit the top of the axle, you would be tipped pretty steep, maybe beyond the point of recovery.

Then snapping an overstressed spindle would tumble you over for sure.


I see those rear wheel spacers in YM240 Operation, and YM240 Parts, under Optional Equipment at the back of the book.

Incidentally, I also see optional stiffener discs that go outside the front wheels. "For Loader Work etc". They are shown only in the YM195 (YM1700) column and show four lug holes, so they fit the 2wd only. Maybe the 6 lug 4wd wheels are stronger.

I could sure use a couple of those discs. I've never folded over a wheel, but the previous owner must have abused this thing, or never tightened the lugs. Both front wheels have weld-repaired spiderweb cracks. I finally bought a pair of correct used wheels in good condition.

I'm interested in the rear wheel weights too. The manual shows a '25' (Kg?) next to the wheel then two 20's that are flat discs. I assume this gives about 140 lbs per side.

Point taken Califonia, My 226D US dealer years ago told me/showed me how to widen front & back stance w/wheel swap.He said it was made for that? I'm sure it does add stress on front. I had a top spindle bearing crumble/fall down into ring gear/locked-up/ spun the steering wheel and broke steering box& Thank God, only gave me a nasty finger sprain, and did't brake my arm(lucky). After digging into the Beast, Thats when I saw what seemed to be over size bearings on both sides of the ring gear. Looked hard for chips in ring and pinion--not a scratch HA HA yanny's are tough little buggers! As for wheel failure, not concerned. The fractures around lug holes appeard on another tractor, caused by slightly loose(un-noticable)lug bolts/combined w/pushing loader down>slididing off pile>bouncing front-end(yes abuse) Lucky never broke frontend housing but, that would be my concern. Had leaning a tree(way too much for little yanny) fall in the bucket and threw me on the hood like a WWW seen on TV. rear end 3' off ground. WOW(lucky, tree sliped out of bucket on its way down/I don't know why tree got in such a hurry to get to the ground,but it did)Yanny's are tough. My front-end is well tested.(lucky) I've got good use out of my front wide stance on hills before, so steep had to keep loaded bucket&rear counter wt. flat to the ground to move.Just my opinion

 

[prb51]

Well, Hoyes tractor found the part number (same as above) and searched/x ref the part but can't find any listed presently.
My welder bud fabricates parts for heavy maint. road equipment and I'll see if he'll make me a couple to the specs above unless I can find some elsewhere.

 

[svcguy]

LMTC - Information is from the 'Yanmar Diesel Tractor Operation Manual' Model YM240 / YM240D. This is the actual operation manual delivered with the new tractor in 1979. The axle extensions are pictured in the parts pages (page 17) and labeled 'Adjustable rear system' as part number 15, listed as 'Extension assy, rear shaft'. I called Yanmar America and asked if the extensions were safe to use and they confirmed the rear axle / housing /bearings were engineered for them - no problem. Yanmar did confirm that the original extensions are out of stock. I think the only recourse now would be to build them and assure they are dead accurate. Mine are within a thousands of an inch runout.

For the front tires, the comment to NOT reverse the rims is correct. Yanmar confirmed that the front rims should not be reversed for a wider stance as the spindels could fail. While the rear axles are built to allow for reversing the rims for a wider stance (including the axle extensions), the front spindles are not engineered for reversing the front rims.

The wheel weights are made from scrap steel billets 3 inches thick and 14 inches in diameter. I picked them up at a steel fabricator for scrap price. All you need to do is drill for mounting. I will take some pictures when I get a chance.

Tom