NEW PROJECT

clemsonfor · Oct 23, 2014

NIce an original Yanmar front emblem. THose are hard to come by!!

R Barger · Oct 23, 2014

Got a little deeper into the tractor today. Crank has to built up or replaced. I'm going to have to make a tool to remove and install the front and back main bearing. It sure would be nice to have special tool the manual calls for. The clutch showed very little wear so I'm going to put it back.Here's a few pictures.

winston1 · Oct 24, 2014

Thanks for sharing the pictures. :thumbsup:

grainger12002 · Oct 24, 2014

great pics RB, its a nice low hour tractor, will be running sweet before you know it

normde2001 · Oct 24, 2014

Can't tell much about the crank from the fuzzy pics, but are you sure it needs to be built up? There are .010" and .030" undersized bearings. May just need to be ground, if that.

kenmac · Oct 24, 2014

So, u can't purchase this special tool for the bearings ?looks like u had the block cleaned. I don't see any paint

clemsonfor · Oct 24, 2014

I was thinking you could but the tool too. Unless its so expensive that making one is more cost effective given the money vs time senario?

I would think you could buy the tool from JD for removal since they work on similar yanmar engines in thier small tractor line back through the 80s

R Barger · Oct 24, 2014

the crankshaft

clemsonfor said:
I was thinking you could but the tool too. Unless its so expensive that making one is more cost effective given the money vs time senario?

I would think you could buy the tool from JD for removal since they work on similar yanmar engines in thier small tractor line back through the 80s

I had the crank checked at the machine shop today and it was way beyond the .030 range. Going to talk with the crankshaft rebuilders on monday but I'm thinking about buying a new one. The tool is fairly simple and I hate to buy a tool that I may never use again. No I didn't have the block cleaned.

kenmac · Oct 25, 2014

I had no idea that the front. And rear mains required a special tool for installation . That's good to know

R Barger · Oct 25, 2014

kenmac said:
I had no idea that the front. And rear mains required a special tool for installation . That's good to know

They are one piece bearings and have to be pressed in. The front is pressed in the block itself and the rear goes in a removable housing. I'm waiting on a money transfer to buy parts. Checked the brakes yesterday and found a brake shaft seal leaking so I'll be doing that repair also.

Anyone have the part # for the brake shaft seal and the seal collar? Hoye's site doesn't list it for the 336.

careyo63 · Oct 26, 2014

Check if this correct. Brake, Seal Collar, # SC-3343. The 3000 and 336 share the same Rear Axle Seal according to my Fredericks list ? The 3000 uses a Seal, Brake Axle 55x78x12TC. which probly may be the same also as the 336.

R Barger · Oct 26, 2014

careyo63 said:
Check if this correct. Brake, Seal Collar, # SC-3343. The 3000 and 336 share the same Rear Axle Seal according to my Fredericks list ? The 3000 uses a Seal, Brake Axle 55x78x12TC. which probly may be the same also as the 336.

After some more research I think your right on th part #'s. Thanks

clemsonfor · Oct 27, 2014

You can call Hoye. They dont list everything but have most of that stuff that dosent show up. I bet they can get you a number and availibilty in a few mins. they actually answer thier phone and questions. Its amazing what guys at a business that care about thier customers and have knowageable employess can do!

careyo63 · Oct 27, 2014

Yanmar Tractor Parts: BRAKES

No need to call them and I checked it also before posting.

R Barger · Nov 6, 2014

Well got all the parts for the engine. Took the block to the machine shop and had the front and rear bearings pressed in. I don't want to talk about what that cost. I was deglasing the cylinders today and noticed one of them has some black staining in it. After deglasing you could still see it slightly but can't feel it at all. The cylinder are standard with hardly any wear and I don't want to hone them any more If I can avoid it. Any comments? Here's a picture.

bmaverick · Nov 7, 2014

R Barger said:
Well got all the parts for the engine. Took the block to the machine shop and had the front and rear bearings pressed in. I don't want to talk about what that cost. I was deglasing the cylinders today and noticed one of them has some black staining in it. After deglasing you could still see it slightly but can't feel it at all. The cylinder are standard with hardly any wear and I don't want to hone them any more If I can avoid it. Any comments? Here's a picture.View attachment 397599

Surface discoloration isn't bad to warrent horning. You did polish though? If you have a gauge to check the circularity to be continuious down the cylinder, that would give the best assurance.

winston1 · Nov 7, 2014

bmaverick said:
Surface discoloration isn't bad to warrent horning. You did polish though? If you have a gauge to check the circularity to be continuious down the cylinder, that would give the best assurance.

Polish? :confused3:

R Barger · Nov 7, 2014

winston1 said:
Polish? :confused3:

I did hone and ended up with a good cross hatch pattern. Got the block put back together today. Everything went well. New pistons,rings,1 rod,crank,and all bearings. Bolted back to tractor and called it a day.

R Barger · Nov 7, 2014

winston1 said:
Polish? :confused3:

I did hone and ended up with a good cross hatch pattern. Got the block put back together today. Everything went well. New pistons,rings,1 rod,crank,and all bearings. Bolted back to tractor and called it a day.View attachment 397677 View attachment 397678