new saw

[RandyT]

If you were looking at getting a new saw, and have the need for a 24 inch bar with the option of using a 36 when needed to cut off stumps what would you get.

 

[dusty3030]

Don’t know about running a 36” on it but I love my Echo cs620 running a 24”. Great rugged built saw for the money.

 

[5030]

I second that comment. You can buy a Stihl for a lot more jack, but the Echo does the same thing for less and it's a Japanese quailty unit.

You could always buy a refurbished 'junk' chainsaw from XYZ or whatever his screen name is if you want to go super cheap.

 

[5030]

I don't cut off stumps, I grind them.

 

[ericm979]

If you were looking at getting a new saw, and have the need for a 24 inch bar with the option of using a 36 when needed to cut off stumps what would you get.

I have a Stihl MS460 that I usually run a 24" bar on. I have used a 32" bar for large trees. I have a 36" for it but haven't used it. I think 36" would cut slow. The 460 is a pretty healthy 77cc saw so you're probably looking in the 80cc class, like a 500i. Or a 90cc class saw like a 660. The 660s are the best of the Chinese clones of older Stihls and would be useful if you need a 36" bar often. But at least for me, they're overkill for a 24" bar. A 660 weighs a lot more than a 460 and is much harder to start.

On large stumps I cut from all sides, so I don't need a bar that will span the entire trunk. If the bar isn't through the trunk I don't have to worry about the far end that I can't see going into dirt.

 

[5030]

Where my stump grinder excells. I don't worry about sticking loops in the dirt which dulls them immediately and I'm not about to buy a very expensive carbide tipped chain either

Randy, you might want to go to a skip tooth chipper chain that will allow the smaller saw to keep up with the demands.

 

[5030]

Don’t know about running a 36” on it but I love my Echo cs620 running a 24”. Great rugged built saw for the money.

A couple real easy mods will make it run even better. Get rid of the top baffle on the muff but keep the USDA spark arrestor screen and pull the limiter caps and tune it a bit and then replace the caps. Echo from the factory sets them a tad rich.

 

[Hay Dude]

661C/500I

 

[RandyT]

I have a Stihl MS460 that I usually run a 24" bar on. I have used a 32" bar for large trees. I have a 36" for it but haven't used it. I think 36" would cut slow. The 460 is a pretty healthy 77cc saw so you're probably looking in the 80cc class, like a 500i. Or a 90cc class saw like a 660. The 660s are the best of the Chinese clones of older Stihls and would be useful if you need a 36" bar often. But at least for me, they're overkill for a 24" bar. A 660 weighs a lot more than a 460 and is much harder to start.

On large stumps I cut from all sides, so I don't need a bar that will span the entire trunk. If the bar isn't through the trunk I don't have to worry about the far end that I can't see going into dirt.

Sometimes that 36 that we have now won't even span 1/2 the stump and have to to be chunked off just to reach the center piece.

Where my stump grinder excells. I don't worry about sticking loops in the dirt which dulls them immediately and I'm not about to buy a very expensive carbide tipped chain either

Randy, you might want to go to a skip tooth chipper chain that will allow the smaller saw to keep up with the demands.

Stump job I looked at 3 weeks ago included 2 60+ inch stumps that were cut off 6 feet high. and included 3 more stumps from 30-60 inches 6 inches above ground level but the stumps were cut off 2 feet high.

 

[RandyT]

I have a Stihl MS460 that I usually run a 24" bar on. I have used a 32" bar for large trees. I have a 36" for it but haven't used it. I think 36" would cut slow. The 460 is a pretty healthy 77cc saw so you're probably looking in the 80cc class, like a 500i. Or a 90cc class saw like a 660. The 660s are the best of the Chinese clones of older Stihls and would be useful if you need a 36" bar often. But at least for me, they're overkill for a 24" bar. A 660 weighs a lot more than a 460 and is much harder to start.

On large stumps I cut from all sides, so I don't need a bar that will span the entire trunk. If the bar isn't through the trunk I don't have to worry about the far end that I can't see going into dirt.

Bouncing between the 500i and the 661. Which comes down to the 500i is slightly undersized to run a 36 inch effectively, but a 24 inch on a 661 is overkill.

Currently running a older Solo 667 with the 24" and a Solo 694 with the 36" which was actually made by Dolmar as the PS-9010. Both saws have limited parts availibility at this point and any failure basically junks the saw.

 

[xyz123]

I don't cut off stumps, I grind them.

You have to stump them before you grind them DA.

You cant grind this. You need to stump it first.

48" across.

Once stumped then you grind them.

 

[xyz123]

Oh look now it has been stumped.

 

[Hay Dude]

I almost picked up a 661C with a 36” bar last week. Sent money and found it was a scam or an idiot. Luckily I was able to get money back.
Back to lookin…..

 

[xyz123]

Oh look now you can grind it since it been stumped.

 

[xyz123]

661 all day if stihl for 24-36.

I used to run 660 066 like that.

They aint light PHO dry. Add prob 10 ready to go with 36"

 

[xyz123]

I had one of those dolmar 90cc 9000 9010. Like said parts really tough to find. I wouldnt stump with it unless willing to write it off.

Mine was early one that had to be updated with 9010 fly and coil.

Had the dual bar mount option. Dont know if they did that later on or not.

 

[JeepHead]

A couple real easy mods will make it run even better. Get rid of the top baffle on the muff but keep the USDA spark arrestor screen and pull the limiter caps and tune it a bit and then replace the caps. Echo from the factory sets them a tad rich.

My experience with several Echo saws, over many years now, is that they're set lean from the factory. I have yet to come across one set rich.

 

[xyz123]

My experience with several Echo saws, over many years now, is that they're set lean from the factory. I have yet to come across one set rich.

All mine and ones that come in that started to score were all set lean from echo too.

Dealer friend he has seen lately some are rich though. So maybe their getting the feedback.

One guys 590 was so lean 6 months on it and was starting to score after buying it new. Epa caps were still on it too.
I took saw on trade and fixed it and sold it off.

 

[5030]

I almost picked up a 661C with a 36” bar last week. Sent money and found it was a scam or an idiot. Luckily I was able to get money back.
Back to lookin…..

Just buy a new one and get it over with. You can afford itm saws are chump cgabge compared to tractors, new pickup trucks and large implements.

The longer you procrastniate the more expensive they become.

 

[5030]

My experience with several Echo saws, over many years now, is that they're set lean from the factory. I have yet to come across one set rich.

Both my Timber bear and the 620 came jetted rich, not lean. Not a big deal, easy to adust. Big improvement with an Echo is relieving the back pressure in the can.