JeepHead
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2023
- Messages
- 1,408
- Location
- The hills of Southern Indiana
- Tractor
- Kubota 2502H, HSI Pinnacle grapple, LP 48" forks, LP 60" BB, KK tiller 60", KK middle buster, Pat's QH
5030
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2003
- Messages
- 28,967
- Location
- SE Michigan in the middle of nowhere
- Tractor
- Kubota M9000 HDCC3 M9000 HDC
Whatever Bear to me, wolf to you...For the love of god, it's a Timber WOLF, not BEAR! We have told you this a 100 times!
airbiscuit
Super Member
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2004
- Messages
- 7,592
- Location
- NW Wisconsin
- Tractor
- New Holland T2310 (40hp), Kubota L3010 GST, New Holland TC21DA *** Previously - Farmall H, 1941 John Deere B, Shibaura SD1500, John Deere 850, Bobcat 642, New Holland 1925
Grizzly Wolf?
5030
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2003
- Messages
- 28,967
- Location
- SE Michigan in the middle of nowhere
- Tractor
- Kubota M9000 HDCC3 M9000 HDC
Grizzly Adams...
John_Mc
Elite Member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2001
- Messages
- 4,684
- Location
- Monkton, Vermont
- Tractor
- NH TC33D Modified with belly pan, limb risers & FOPS. Honda Pioneer 520 & antique Coot UTV
Exactly. Almost every saw I've seen (that still has a manually adjustable carb) sold in the US comes set on the lean side from the factory. They do this to meet the EPA emissions requirements.
I think it depends on budget. If you have the budget a Stihl 500i would be my choice, but for a bit less an Echo 7310 is a nice looking saw. I haven’t run one, but I’ve run a 620p and I wouldn’t run anything more than a 24” bar on it. Felt sluggish compared to my Stihl 400c.
Have you guys considered fitting a 7 tooth sprocket? It's like changing down a gear. Chain runs slower for the engine rpm but makes a longer bar more feasible. Still have to accept that it will take longer to saw but then one would only have a small saw with a long bar if one was only occasionally sawing large diameters. If you're doing large diameters all day long, then of course you'd buy a 90cc or something large
Skypilota72
Bronze Member
I have an Echo 7310, which can handle a 32” Bar. It has great power and torque, so I think this would be your best bet.
Fields_mj
Silver Member
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2021
- Messages
- 179
- Location
- Central Indiana
- Tractor
- Ford 1710, Kubota F2880, White FB16
How often are you going to use it, how mechanically inclined are you, and how much money do you want to spend?
To go up to a 36" bar, you need a saw that's at least 70cc. Saws in the low 70s may need a high output oil pump for the bar. If you run it a lot, get a Stihl or Husqvarna. If you don't run it a lot, or you are pretty mechanically inclined and don't want to spend a ton of money, I'd get a clone. I've been running a G660 with a 28" bar and occasionally a 42" bar for a few years now and love it. Its not my main saw, but when I want something longer than 18", that's what I grab. There were some parts that I had to replace right off the bat (clutch, high output oil pump for the 42" bar, mounting screws for the handle and spikes), and there were a few more that I replaced because I wanted to (dp muffler, starter pawl), but it has been well worth the $321 I spent getting it to my door. If you're not mechanically inclined, reach out to bluesaws.com. They will sell you one that they've gone through and checked out OR they will build you one that's ported for about half the price of the OEM saw, and I'd put their built saw up against an OEM saw any day of the week in both power and durability.
To go up to a 36" bar, you need a saw that's at least 70cc. Saws in the low 70s may need a high output oil pump for the bar. If you run it a lot, get a Stihl or Husqvarna. If you don't run it a lot, or you are pretty mechanically inclined and don't want to spend a ton of money, I'd get a clone. I've been running a G660 with a 28" bar and occasionally a 42" bar for a few years now and love it. Its not my main saw, but when I want something longer than 18", that's what I grab. There were some parts that I had to replace right off the bat (clutch, high output oil pump for the 42" bar, mounting screws for the handle and spikes), and there were a few more that I replaced because I wanted to (dp muffler, starter pawl), but it has been well worth the $321 I spent getting it to my door. If you're not mechanically inclined, reach out to bluesaws.com. They will sell you one that they've gone through and checked out OR they will build you one that's ported for about half the price of the OEM saw, and I'd put their built saw up against an OEM saw any day of the week in both power and durability.
I couldnt make myself buy a 7310 echo when they first come out even for 600.
New higher pricing no way.
A local ended up with one and didnt keep it a week. He said under powered for size.
Joe put them on a dyno and it was the weakest of the class stock that weighed the most PHO dry.
They do take to porting real good by the right porter though. Only a few get their potential out of them.
PHO weight.
New higher pricing no way.
A local ended up with one and didnt keep it a week. He said under powered for size.
Joe put them on a dyno and it was the weakest of the class stock that weighed the most PHO dry.
They do take to porting real good by the right porter though. Only a few get their potential out of them.
PHO weight.
newbury
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2009
- Messages
- 14,842
- Location
- From Vt, in Va, retiring to MS
- Tractor
- Kubota's - B7610, M4700
And OILERS are EPA problems. I had to upgrade my oilers on both my 660's to get a decent amount of oil output.
@Fields_mj me and you think alike on the big money saws that are only going to get used from time to time.
G660 G395 $300 to door and then G3120 G888 $400-$500 to door.
G660 G395 $300 to door and then G3120 G888 $400-$500 to door.
newbury
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2009
- Messages
- 14,842
- Location
- From Vt, in Va, retiring to MS
- Tractor
- Kubota's - B7610, M4700
That's about what I paid for my 660's and 880, all three slightly used and bought from 2009-?2014?.
Well duh long long time ago when I owned used 5-6 066 660's and 5-6 084's 3 3120's and 3 166's too. But sure not todays prices.
Heck I sold this 660 for 150 that just needed the parts to be a runner.
DieselBound
Elite Member
Any saw that could readily run a 36" bar and chain isn't something that I'd be wanting to use to do more regular cutting at the 24" and below range. I'm probably not the best to consult with on chainsaws as I have three nearly identical saws running different bar lengths: 18", 24" and 28". 
How often do you have to cut stumps? You can section cut them with a smaller saw if need be. I tend to use an excavator on stumps but I have ways of dealing with the pulled-out stumps.
How often do you have to cut stumps? You can section cut them with a smaller saw if need be. I tend to use an excavator on stumps but I have ways of dealing with the pulled-out stumps.
OP
RandyT
Elite Member
Have to cut off stumps probably a couple dozen times a year. And about twice a year have to section out a stump that the 36" won't fit through. Most of the stumps that have to be cut off could be done with a 24-25" with occasional use for a 36. Got a job coming up that will require the 36" to cut off about a dozen stumps.
Basically just looking at getting a saw that can be used primarily for woodcutting and cutting off the smaller stumps 90% of the time with the other 10% needing the 36". Currently have saws that cover the 24 and 36" departments but if one of those goes down they are not repairable at this point due to limited to no parts availablity.
