truckdiagnostics
Platinum Member
Consider labeling your loops. Then down the road if you need to increase the flow in any one loop or notice cold spots it will be easier to make sense of it.
New shop build, beginning stages with questions
- Thread starter rangerfredbob
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rangerfredbob
Veteran Member
Yeah, I zip tied the loop ends together but I'm going to sketch out the areas to document better, I'm not going to be using the floor heat in the near future (probably at least a year out, there's much more important things on the list). I'm likely going to take a couple 2x4's and tie the in and out that far apart to give room for manifolds, right now they're just zip tied to a rusty piece of rebar I found...
I thought about paper, maybe I'll get a roll of butcher paper or something... but it might not be too hard to clean off the insulation backer.
I thought about paper, maybe I'll get a roll of butcher paper or something... but it might not be too hard to clean off the insulation backer.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
That looks really nice. Where will you be bringing your water from? Does that line go through the slab too?
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rangerfredbob
Veteran Member
Pump house is ~75' away, eventually I'll run a line from there to the bathroom area. The two conduit's by the manifold area are electrical and likely internet.
aczlan
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Before you pour concrete, I would put grey PVC conduit sweep elbows over each line where it comes up through the slab (and possibly add a 1' piece to extend them up). That way the concrete guys cant accidentally run the power trowel into them and make a mess.
If those are 1/2" lines, 3/4" conduit sweep elbows will slide right over them IIRC.
Aaron Z
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rangerfredbob
Veteran Member
Here's a pic of the shop from the road, the building is only like 35' from the road, I scraped some goo from the soft area and put a yard or so of gravel over it, should be more stabile now.
Just a note the Dodge isn't mine, you might say my problems more relate to Ford's as you might notice a Ranger, an Explorer and a Mountaineer in that picture...
LD1
Epic Contributor
How many loops and how many feet per loop?
ANd save be from going back through the thread trying to find it again...how big is the shop?
Based on pics,I would have put the loops tighter together along the outside. Then progressively space further apart toward the middle. Instead of all evenly spaced.
Also, did you do insulation board under the slab?
ANd save be from going back through the thread trying to find it again...how big is the shop?
Based on pics,I would have put the loops tighter together along the outside. Then progressively space further apart toward the middle. Instead of all evenly spaced.
Also, did you do insulation board under the slab?
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rangerfredbob
Veteran Member
I'm in the Northwest, so my winters are vastly different than the central and lake effect area... if it's below 30F for a couple days that's generally a cold winter 
, about 10 years ago it got down to 6F for a day but that's rare. That said, I'm not going for perfect... I'll have a wood stove at some point for the majority of heating.
The shop is 36'x48', there's 5 loops 300-320' long, no foam board
, about 10 years ago it got down to 6F for a day but that's rare. That said, I'm not going for perfect... I'll have a wood stove at some point for the majority of heating.The shop is 36'x48', there's 5 loops 300-320' long, no foam board
truckdiagnostics
Platinum Member
not like the above that was done 20 years ago on my first stab at this.
More like the above the plastic chase comes from menards? it is curved at the bottom.
Apologies on the pic orientation
That is for a 20 by 24 room in the back of the barn. I am going to heat it with a 40 gal hot water heater. Some piping and a pump and away we go. been sitting like that for over 2 years. Thing is I have the parts too. So, I hear yea.
i pressurized it and watched the air PSI before and after the pour, hence the manifold.
thing is if you know they nicked it you can always put air to it when the concrete is wet and you should see it bubble up through the concrete and can fix it. never had to do. Not going to be so easy latter. Do able, but more difficult. You put hot water in the floor and you can find it with IR camera. This I have had to do, because somebody drilled where they where not supposed too.
Interesting tid-bit.
In the new office buildings/factories they are installing in floor just around the out side perimeter of the building. that is in addition to the forced air.
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rangerfredbob
Veteran Member
Ok, progress, took half a day off work today to just make sure I could get ready this weekend, got a text message from the concrete guy today that we're going to try to pour next week!
I got my receivers welded together today, the rebar is at the same height as the mesh on the floor, I tied them on today. I also cut up some 6" pieces of 3" ABS to make plugs for the floor anchor's/chain pots, you should be able to see almost everything in the two layout pictures... gotta figure out how to weigh down the tubes, probably just fill with gravel, that'd be easy to shop vac out... I don't have enough tire weights... They're wired to the rebar but I don't think that's enough.