"New" Tiller Draw Pins Too Close Together

[caine]

I think it is time you visit harbor freight and get you cheap mig welder. Perfect project to justify the tool. Practice a little bit and make it fit your tractor. Never to old to learn a new skill.

Welding is on my bucket list but time is at a premium at the moment.

 

[MESSMAKER]

I have that same tiller and you will find that the pins set back to far and when you lift it up all the way it might hit your tires or be very close, I built brackets that moved the pins out about 6 inches. Bought a new driveshaft with slip clutch, Tiller works great now.

That is what I was thinking. Weld on a piece of channel steel on each side. Drill the channel and put your pin there.

 

[caine]

Quick follow-up-

So in the end, it looks like I did not buy a "pig in a poke." While the tiller sits close to the tractor, it is similar to what I've seen for Yanmar tillers on Yanmar tractors. For the moment I'm operational (as soon as the ground dries out a bit more). Also, the direction of rotation is correct.

Hooking it up only required the obvious- adjusting the "chain checks" and trimming the driveshaft an inch or so. So while my ignorance could have been very costly, it looks like it won't take too much to have my cake and eat it too.

My intention is to follow all the good advice here and adapt it to fit my quick hitch. That will move it 4-1/2" further back from the tractor as well as make it more convenient to mount and dismount.

My thanks to the community here for your valued insight and suggestions!

 

[etpm]

Quick follow-up-

So in the end, it looks like I did not buy a "pig in a poke." While the tiller sits close to the tractor, it is similar to what I've seen for Yanmar tillers on Yanmar tractors. For the moment I'm operational (as soon as the ground dries out a bit more). Also, the direction of rotation is correct.

Hooking it up only required the obvious- adjusting the "chain checks" and trimming the driveshaft an inch or so. So while my ignorance could have been very costly, it looks like it won't take too much to have my cake and eat it too.

My intention is to follow all the good advice here and adapt it to fit my quick hitch. That will move it 4-1/2" further back from the tractor as well as make it more convenient to mount and dismount.

My thanks to the community here for your valued insight and suggestions!
View attachment 740781

 

[etpm]

As they say in the tractoring community that's "Farm Out!". And "Right Arm!"
Cheers Man,
Eric

 

[LD1]

Quick follow-up-


My intention is to follow all the good advice here and adapt it to fit my quick hitch. That will move it 4-1/2" further back from the tractor as well as make it more convenient to mount and dismount.

My thanks to the community here for your valued insight and suggestions!

That will most likely require a new drive shaft now since yours is now cut to fit without the hitch

 

[seville009]

Post number 2 covers it nicely. You might want to remove that quick hitch so you can actually position the lower links on the pins that will need bushings anyway. diameter is too small.

agree with 5030 here....get rid of that quick hitch.

i tried one of those many years ago; could not get anything to attach correctly. Big pia...... the quick hitch has been sitting in the weeds ever since

I didn't read thewhole thread, so maybe this was already resolved.

 

[5030]

It's my view that if you have extendable lower arm balls like I do, there is no need for either a quick hitch or the 'Pats' attachments.

I don't 'own too many implements that are 3 point mounted anyway. Most of my implements are drawbar pulled. I have my big Landpride 9 foot wide shredder, the Kuhn Masterdrive rake and a rear bale spear that are 3 point. Everything else is drawbar pulled. The disc mowers, the round baler and the sprayer are drawbar.

Had a box blade and sold it. Don't really have a need for it and one of my customers that I rebuilt his bucket for asked about it so I sold it to him I get quite a few bucket reworks where owners put the 'smile' in the lower sheet and then cannot get it out. Only way to remove the 'smile' is to cut the side sheets and then press the bottom sheet back to straight and then reweld the side sheets. Tractor owners aren't the only ones guilty of the smile. I do excavator buckets as well..... Big ones.

 

[caine]

That will most likely require a new drive shaft now since yours is now cut to fit without the hitch

It may... but currently it is installed without a slip clutch (which is on its way here). Not sure of the exact length that will introduce but suspect it will be every bit of 4-1/2". I did buy another driveshaft in case I need it, but this little one came with the tiller (as did a new set of tines).

 

[frcnLS]

I had a similar problem. Bought a Quick Hitch from Harbor Freight. Worked fine with my Titan field mower but there was no way to get it to work with my Gearmore rear blade. The top hook would not fit properly. I finally gave up on it. With three rear impelments I wanted something to make it easier to switch.
I tried Pat's Quick Hitch (#1 Tractor 3 Point Hitch - Quick, Easy Change System). Works great! Allows you to attach any width the lift arms can be moved to. Being that it is independent from the top link it gives more flexibility in movement.

Take your time mounting it and after the first five or ten minutes of use, re-torque the mounting hardware, then keep an eye on the torques occasionally during the first few uses as it seats in.
Another tip which may not make sense until you get it: There is a roll pin that holds a spacer (or spacers) in place. The top of the pin where it passes through the spacer may rest on the lift arm. That may drive the pin out, or it may not give the pin enough "bite" to stay in the spacer. Drive the pin in past the tapered tip and grind the pin flush.
You also may consider the spacer bar which holds the arms at an adjustable distance temporarily while attaching the implement.