New to me 226D

[Johndeere3720]

What part no./item no. did you use for the LED headlight bulbs?

Here’s the link to them:

2 LED light bulbs for Yanmar 186 187 220 226 1100 1110 1300 headlights headlamps | eBay

Yanmar did use different style bulbs throughout the years. The last 2 pictures are of the socket these bulbs fit into for reference (socket not included). If these do not match yours I do have different style.

www.ebay.com

 

[Johndeere3720]

Got the orange flashing lights wired up and working like factory today!

Tonight is the Yanmars first night out of the shop with the bobcats. Mainly because I gotta get my brushcat into the shop so I can rebuild the gearbox. Still have a few things to do but I’m at least on the downhill side of things with the 226D.

 

[Johndeere3720]

Brought home another Yanmar tonight.
The guys dad used to be the local Yanmar dealer back in the day and believes his dad sold this 135D new. This tractor needs the front end rebuilt mainly, it was pulled apart to diagnose the oil leaks and was thrown back together and parked. It runs great, clutch probably is gonna need replaced as it kinda grinds into gear, missing all of the 3 point hitch. I’ll start a new thread for it, looking forward to bringing another Yanmar back to its former glory.

 

[bmaverick]

This is a really nice looking Tree Frog to restore.

 

[Johndeere3720]

Brought the 226D out to my property yesterday to do some mowing and test things out.

What I found is in high range the power shift is super delayed, it takes up to 10 seconds to build pressure and start moving and up to 5 seconds between gears. On an incline it actually will slow to a stop on high range. No clutch slippage or anything, it’s just like it doesn’t have the pressure to stay in gear. Haven’t read through the manual on it yet but I figured I’d start by draining the hydraulic fluid and pulling the screen to see if it was plugged.

Upon removal the screen didn’t appear plugged but had a fair amount of metal shavings on it. I’ve since cleaned the screen and refilled with fresh hydraulic fluid. My 3 point lift sounds better now but still has the delay in high range. I’ve not gotten it to stall on an incline yet though. Any thoughts? I’m thinking either the valve body for the power shift needs resealed or my hydraulic pump is weak. The 3 point lift cylinder probably needs resealed too, if I lift it it’ll slowly drift down and then relift every 5-10 seconds. Also found that the front axle leaks which I fully expected after refilling it with 90 weight since it didn’t register on the dipstick.

 

[winston1]

with your 3 point in up position, close your lock valve and see if it still drifts down. If so, lift piston o-ring likely bad. If not, control valve or relief valve likely leaking by.

Assuming you are aware your main hydraulic pump does not affect your power shift. The power shift has it's own pump.

Also, your front end leak may be to bad, but, in some cases people have been successful in adding Lucas transmission stop leak.

 

[California]

...On an incline it actually will slow to a stop on high range. No clutch slippage or anything, it’s just like it doesn’t have the pressure to stay in gear.

That's not good at all. That is physical clutch slippage inside the transmission.

Powershift is a 100% mechanical connection, crankshaft to axles, after the little internal clutch packs are engaged by hydraulic pressure.

Here's a picture of motorcycle clutch components, for a simplified view of what's in there. Hydraulic pressure on the end of the clutch pack jams the drive and driven plates into positive engagement.

Slippage in there is just as bad as on a conventional clutch.

 

[Johndeere3720]

with your 3 point in up position, close your lock valve and see if it still drifts down. If so, lift piston o-ring likely bad. If not, control valve or relief valve likely leaking by.

Assuming you are aware your main hydraulic pump does not affect your power shift. The power shift has it's own pump.

Also, your front end leak may be to bad, but, in some cases people have been successful in adding Lucas transmission stop leak.

So I did this test today and with the valve locked and 3 point up it did not drift. As far as the front end goes I’ve put together a parts list on Hoye, it’s about $200 to completely reseal the front end.

 

[Johndeere3720]

That's not good at all. That is physical clutch slippage inside the transmission.

Powershift is a 100% mechanical connection, crankshaft to axles, after the little internal clutch packs are engaged by hydraulic pressure.

Here's a picture of motorcycle clutch components, for a simplified view of what's in there. Hydraulic pressure on the end of the clutch pack jams the drive and driven plates into positive engagement.

Slippage in there is just as bad as on a conventional clutch.

Well that’s unfortunate.. I’ll have to do some reading in the manual to better understand how it’s put together. I got to rebuilt automatic transmissions in college so the whole hydraulic clutch pack is familiar to me.

 

[Johndeere3720]

Finally found most of a set (missing 1 front) of wheels/tires from a 790 John Deere today.

The rears fit like a glove, front measures to be the same as well. My sway links are a tight fit however I ultimately plan to get a quick hitch and probably spacers in the rear which should solve that problem. I do plan to get these wheels blasted and painted to match, just wanted to mock them up and see how it’d look.
Ratio wise I should be good with the matching set of R4’s can my R1’s so everything in theory should work. Should be a great alternative to mowing grass on fairly soft ground.