New to me 240D

[supermansv]

To update - I ended up partially removing the FEL the other night in order to get better access to the snapped off bolt. I used some 2x4's and jack stands to stabalize things, while not fully removing it from the tractor. It looks a bit dodgy, but it's pretty stable.

Sadly to get directly on the bolt, I'd have to remove the frame which is the front bumper and attaches to the engine block. I tried loosening those bolts and can feel the weight of the engine on them, so I reversed course and tightened them back up. With that being a direction I want to avoid, I cut a 1/2in piece of copper pipe to fit inside the frame hole and I plan to weld to the top of the bolt and utilize the copper pipe to hopefully stop any of the weld from attaching to the frame itself. Time will tell if that's a good idea or not. Crossing fingers it works as my other options are not looking good.

Thanks for all the guidance along the way!

-Zach

 

[ponytug]

To update - I ended up partially removing the FEL the other night in order to get better access to the snapped off bolt. I used some 2x4's and jack stands to stabalize things, while not fully removing it from the tractor. It looks a bit dodgy, but it's pretty stable.

Sadly to get directly on the bolt, I'd have to remove the frame which is the front bumper and attaches to the engine block. I tried loosening those bolts and can feel the weight of the engine on them, so I reversed course and tightened them back up. With that being a direction I want to avoid, I cut a 1/2in piece of copper pipe to fit inside the frame hole and I plan to weld to the top of the bolt and utilize the copper pipe to hopefully stop any of the weld from attaching to the frame itself. Time will tell if that's a good idea or not. Crossing fingers it works as my other options are not looking good.

Thanks for all the guidance along the way!

-Zach

Sorry to hear that the saga continues. I have done similar weld jobs, and had really nice results. I would ensure that your pipe is nice and tight against the broken bolt, so you don't end up jamming up the threads with weld spatter.

There is another school of thought that puts a steel pipe down the bolt hole and welds to the inside of that. Worst case, you now have a nice concentric drill guide for drilling EZ outs...

Personally, I think that it is the intense heat from welding that does most of the work.

All the best,

Peter

 

[dirttoys]

Sorry to hear that the saga continues. I have done similar weld jobs, and had really nice results. I would ensure that your pipe is nice and tight against the broken bolt, so you don't end up jamming up the threads with weld spatter.

There is another school of thought that puts a steel pipe down the bolt hole and welds to the inside of that. Worst case, you now have a nice concentric drill guide for drilling EZ outs...

Personally, I think that it is the intense heat from welding that does most of the work.

All the best,

Peter

Yup and yup, I have never tried the copper pipe, but it sounds like it would need a lot of room? My suggestion was just the iron pipe and hit the middle. If needed you can chase it with a tap after, although I have never needed to. Please let us know how the copper does?

If all else fails keep stepping up in drill size till the damn bolt is gone/down to the threads and you can pick it all out. Then tap/helicoil as needed. Bless your heart, you have been patient and diligent, I would have blown through it with a torch and fixed it/burnt it down a week ago, either way I would be done

Nod to above, I also believe the heat of the stick is the biggest help.

Best,

ed

 

[Johndeere3720]

Slightly off topic but I recently bought some original literature for my YM226 and also got a brochure for the YM240 so I figured id share since its relative to your new to you 240.

 

[supermansv]

@Johndeere3720 - Thank you!! Very much appreciated.

 

[California]

Well I'm still too longwinded. But here's another YM240 brochure.

YM240 Showroom Brochure

This will be my 5,000th post here. I talk too much. :D Here are some documents relevant to YM240/YM195 and their Japan-market equivalents, YM2000/YM1700. First, a four page dealer brochure showing YM240-Late, sold in about 1979~81. The fifth picture shows YM240-Early. (1975-on, per the Parts...

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[supermansv]

Ok, phew... The multi-week saga has (atleast for this part) finally come to an end. This morning I was able to break out the rest of the bolt from it's resting place . Re-tapped the threads and now will start the process of cleaning the rest of the bolt holes and putting things back together. My partner is going to be happy to get this thing out of the garage lol. As you will see from the pics, I essentially had the FEL removed, just didn't separate at the hydraulic line. For anyone else, the key for me was getting the cold steel 1/4 chisel. With that, I was able to slowly break out the bolt.

Thank you again to everyone for the help/guidance/support!

 

[supermansv]

On a separate note - When I'm at 2k RPM's (which sounds fairly high rev'd to me) and use the front bucket, the engine seems to struggle. Am I just at too low of an RPM? It just seems like I'm constantly having to adjust the throttle in order to keep the engine happy. I've changed the fuel filter and bled the air out. Not sure what else to check except for the hydraulic pump itself?

 

[bmaverick]

On a separate note - When I'm at 2k RPM's (which sounds fairly high rev'd to me) and use the front bucket, the engine seems to struggle. Am I just at too low of an RPM? It just seems like I'm constantly having to adjust the throttle in order to keep the engine happy. I've changed the fuel filter and bled the air out. Not sure what else to check except for the hydraulic pump itself?

Take the air filter out and clean it. Engine RPMs dropping off like that is typical of a dirty air filter. Also, with a shop-vac clean out the intake parts and tubes to the engine.

Is the exhaust clean without soot?

And our machine use 10W30 for summer use. It the engine has 15W40 like old Iron American tractors, it will run sluggish like it's under power with that thick oil. Japan tractors do not like thick oil.

 

[supermansv]

Take the air filter out and clean it. Engine RPMs dropping off like that is typical of a dirty air filter. Also, with a shop-vac clean out the intake parts and tubes to the engine.

Is the exhaust clean without soot?

And our machine use 10W30 for summer use. It the engine has 15W40 like old Iron American tractors, it will run sluggish like it's under power with that thick oil. Japan tractors do not like thick oil.

Thanks! Just replaced the air filter, but will check the intake tube, etc. Exhaust is clean, no problem there and starts with no issues.

I did put 15W40 in it when I changed the oil. Man.. Hate to think that could cause the engine to bog when using the FEL. Sadly it's even just under it's own weight, it's not like I'm lifting anything or doing any work.

Appreciate the suggestion, I'll check the intake, etc. maybe it's clogged and just didn't realize it.

What RPM would you expect I could life the FEL without the engine bogging down?