New to me 240D

[fried1765]

Left handed drill bits work shocking well, had to go to northern tool or HF to find them. Welding to it if you can get to it works well. Saw a guy weld pipe on bolts sheared deep, but they were big bolts and he had thick wall pipe that he could still get a rod through.

If it goes through the frame, not everyone thinks about it, but, don't be afraid to go after it from the other side.

Best,

ed

Unless you enjoy having even more trouble, AVOID any HF or NT dill bits of any type!
A QUALITY left hand drill bit is a very useful tool!
I have two LH drill bit sets.

 

[supermansv]

Thanks all!

Still no luck as of tonight. Tried letting it sit overnight and today with multiple sprays of PB. Unfortunately it's behind the FEL mount, so I'm unable to get heat to it. Might try the Deep Creep stuff tomorrow and see if that helps. I think my only other option after the Deep Creep will be to remove the FEL so I can get better access. It looks like a PITA, so I'm hoping I don't have to go that route.

On another note: I seem to have caused myself another problem. I noticed when I was checking out the tractor, if I didn't have quite a bit of throttle going and I tried to use the hydraulics, the tractor would bog down. If I ran the RPM's up to 2200 or so, it seemed to do ok, but the engine definitely surged a bit when using the hydraulics. I was messing with the fuel on/off valve the other day and when I went to start the tractor and pull it into my garage, it quite on me and wouldn't start. So, I was already thinking of changing the fuel filter anyways, which I did today. Unfortunately I'm still unable to get the tractor to run right. If I use the decompress first, I can kind of get the tractor to run, but the RPMs will not increase at full throttle, it stays at less than 2000 and essentially barely runs. I already went through the operations manual and followed the bleeding procedure several times, however I must be missing something and still have air somewhere in the system. Does any of this make sense to you guys? Any suggestions?

Thanks!

-Zach

 

[dirttoys]

Thanks all!

Still no luck as of tonight. Tried letting it sit overnight and today with multiple sprays of PB. Unfortunately it's behind the FEL mount, so I'm unable to get heat to it. Might try the Deep Creep stuff tomorrow and see if that helps. I think my only other option after the Deep Creep will be to remove the FEL so I can get better access. It looks like a PITA, so I'm hoping I don't have to go that route.

On another note: I seem to have caused myself another problem. I noticed when I was checking out the tractor, if I didn't have quite a bit of throttle going and I tried to use the hydraulics, the tractor would bog down. If I ran the RPM's up to 2200 or so, it seemed to do ok, but the engine definitely surged a bit when using the hydraulics. I was messing with the fuel on/off valve the other day and when I went to start the tractor and pull it into my garage, it quite on me and wouldn't start. So, I was already thinking of changing the fuel filter anyways, which I did today. Unfortunately I'm still unable to get the tractor to run right. If I use the decompress first, I can kind of get the tractor to run, but the RPMs will not increase at full throttle, it stays at less than 2000 and essentially barely runs. I already went through the operations manual and followed the bleeding procedure several times, however I must be missing something and still have air somewhere in the system. Does any of this make sense to you guys? Any suggestions?

Thanks!

-Zach

Sure, there are some good replies as EVERYONE with an old diesel goes through this. I should copy this and make it easier for everyone.

1. Make sure you have free fuel flow from the tank, or lift pump which ever you have. If not clean fix the pick tube or collapsed/clogged fuel line from tank to (normally fuel filter).
2. Replace fuel filter, make sure you have unrestricted flow to the injector side of the fuel filter.
3. Bleed system per operators guide.
4. Crack an injector and make sure you get fuel. If you get air at the injector, then fuel, you might have to crack them all until you get solid mist of fuel at each.
5, If still no start, or failed any of the above, report back. The good news is; if this starts out goofing around with the tractor, it is usually not too hard to sort. Please don't pull the injector pump off and try and clean it

Best,

ed

 

[California]

The old time Yanmar dealers who used to post here said there is never a need to bleed at the injectors on a Yanmar. Any air downstream from the injector pump can be pushed though the injectors as more fuel arrives. The preferred procedure is:

On the fuel filter, first bleed the screw nearest the fuel tank until pure fuel comes out. Close it and bleed the one on the outlet side of the filter, then close that one. Then bleed the screw down at the pump inlet. That's all there is to it. If there is air between the pump and injectors, cranking will push it through the injectors.

supermansv, make sure there is nothing blocking hydraulic flow. For example holding a loader control in Lift position after the loader has reached the top, can load down the engine like you describe. That's what this sounds like to me.

One more peculiarity of these Yanmars: If the fuel cap is on too tight, the gravity feed down to the fuel filter won't deliver fuel. The tank needs to breathe. But generally you won't notice this until after a few minutes of mowing etc that is consuming fuel.

 

[bmaverick]

The old time Yanmar dealers who used to post here said there is never a need to bleed at the injectors on a Yanmar. Any air downstream from the injector pump can be pushed though the injectors as more fuel arrives. The preferred procedure is:

On the fuel filter, first bleed the screw nearest the fuel tank until pure fuel comes out. Close it and bleed the one on the outlet side of the filter, then close that one. Then bleed the screw down at the pump inlet. That's all there is to it. If there is air between the pump and injectors, cranking will push it through the injectors.

supermansv, make sure there is nothing blocking hydraulic flow. For example holding a loader control in Lift position after the loader has reached the top, can load down the engine like you describe. That's what this sounds like to me.

One more peculiarity of these Yanmars: If the fuel cap is on too tight, the gravity feed down to the fuel filter won't deliver fuel. The tank needs to breathe. But generally you won't notice this until after a few minutes of mowing etc that is consuming fuel.

Actually, this is the best procedure I've found on the web and it works extremely well.
How to bleed air out of the fuel system

I had twice ran the tank empty and just messing with the injection pump screws did nothing. Cranking never pushed the fuel forwards either. Yet, once the lines before the injectors were loosed a tad, cranked and retighten, the engine fired right up.

Here is Aaron's great writeup. He even has a video link there too.

 

[supermansv]

Thank you all for the great information.

I went to try again and when tightening the banjo bolt down, the inner bolt just snapped right off. It felt a little weird last night when I was retightening, guess that should have been a sign.

Welp, now I get to find another one of those.. Hoping I can source one locally vs. having to order from Hoye or somewhere else. I assume it's somewhat of a standard fitting? Anyone have thoughts on where to find one?

Thanks,
Zach

 

[ponytug]

McMaster, is my go to for odd items, if you can't find one locally. Or Amazon.

All the best,

Peter

 

[pmsmechanic]

Thank you all for the great information.

I went to try again and when tightening the banjo bolt down, the inner bolt just snapped right off. It felt a little weird last night when I was retightening, guess that should have been a sign.

Welp, now I get to find another one of those.. Hoping I can source one locally vs. having to order from Hoye or somewhere else. I assume it's somewhat of a standard fitting? Anyone have thoughts on where to find one?

Thanks,
Zach

My experience with banjo bolts is once they are over tightened the fitting is bent and it might seal with new copper washers or it might not. I was able to salvage the fittings by filing each side flat again.

 

[DangerousDan55]

I retired from Shell Oil and I have removed many broke fastnerns in my 34 years.
Removed from setscrews to large bolts.
In my young years a journeyman taught me this trick.
Drill your screw/bolt.
Have a bottle of water with the top having a hole drilled in it, as to squirt a stream of water.
Heat the screw And surrounding metal nice and HOT. Not warm, but HOT!
Let it heat soak for a bit(20 seconds)
Now squirt a stream of water into the hole that you drilled into the screw. Use about the whole bottle of water.
Then quickly Tap in the screw extractor and try uncrewing the broken screw.
Sometimes it may take two attempts.
Now. Process reasoning is...
Heating the screw and surrounding area allows the metal to expand. And, with the base metal area having more mass and holding the heat longer, the Quinching of the screw with water allows the screw to cool and shrink just a bit allowing its removale.
Note- with the size of screw/bolt that your dealing with, there's a lesser chance of breaking the screw extactor. Just don't go "Gorilla" on it.
At Shell, they called me....
Dr. Ruth the "screw doctor"

I also was successful with the above mentioned weld method.

Now, on you fuel issue....
I fought a similar issue.
Cheched & cleaned everything including the filters. I finally pulled the fuel filter/petcock assembly appart. I replaced a small O-ring in the petcock valve, reassembled, and my ym226D ran like a champ!
I was sucking in air through the small worn O-ring.
Just maybe your issue.....
Good luck!

 

[ponytug]

x2 on the power of a pinhole leak.

I had a pinhole leak in the gravity fed portion of a diesel engine once.(Yanmar clone) It ran, but was easily bogged down. After a number of replacement parts, including a critical one that turned out also to be defective, the pinhole air leak was fixed. The performance was night and day. It was a different engine.

I hadn't fully comprehended the hydraulic aspects of a diesel engine before that, despite having owned and worked with them for many years. A little air destroys the timing, the fuel/air ratio, performance, and the responsiveness of the engine.

So, yes, worth paying attention to, or at lest considering, in my opinion.

All the best,

Peter