new to this forum kioti ck30 will not start

[Dave107]

Scott, you are correct with your understanding of the situation. I feel there is an ignition problem right now and that is why I am not getting any lights on the dash. The battery is brand new as of this spring and has a full charge. I will look into the ignition hopefully this weekend.

As for the original issue (last summer) the tractor was running great, when we shut it down to do some work it would only turn over and not fire back up. I will also look into the oil fill plate and remove that and take your advice. I had a feeling it was the injection pump but wanted to check any other possible ( easy) fix before dealing with that. when the tractor was shut off last summer I did realize it was out of diesel. I didn't know that because the mice and chewed through that fuel gauge sensor wire. I did bleed the lines and cracked 2 out of 3 of the hard lines and still it would only crank over and not fire. the glow plugs were working as of a month ago so I don't believe it is that. I really appreciate the advice and will look into the oil fill plate. Thank you

 

[VictorW]

I think you're on the right track now. You have an electrical problem from it sitting out all Winter that could be the ignition switch which seems to be the weakest link in the tractor and many have failed do to the weather elements. As far as last year's not starting, I guess the IP could have just gone bad at the same time you ran out of fuel. Checking the IP as advised will either hurt the wallet or let you move on to other causes. By the way what year is the tractor or give us the first character in the serial number which is a letter?

 

[Dave107]

Vic, I agree. Its my fathers tractor so I don't know off hand what the first letter is, but I do know its a 2005 ck30

 

[ritcheyvs]

I think it is unlikely that the tractor ran out of fuel at the exact instant it was deliberately shut off with the switch. On the other hand, these IP gears always seem to break when the solenoid spring slams the rack to the off/zero fuel (full aft) position, as has been reported repeatedly on this list.

For Dave: WRT your electrical issues, do you have a schematic and do you know how to read/use a schematic? IMO, you need a schematic and a voltmeter (and some knowledge) to properly solve electrical problems. Otherwise it's just guesswork and part$ swapping (which often creates new problems).

Finally, just to be sure we are on the same page, please verify that your stop solenoid configuration is like this: MIE Parts Page-Stop Lever Group. The reason I ask is because the online parts page says this configuration began in CK30s with s/n H7030001, which would be a 2008 model (not 2005). But I know other 2005/2006 models (like my DK) use this configuration, so it could be another error in the online data. That's why it's best to call a knowledgeable dealer (like MIE) vs ordering online.

 

[Dave107]

I do not have a schematic, that I do need to find. the voltmeter I can barrow and I think my father has a better understanding of how to read the schematic once I get one. The tank was dry when the tractor was shut off. I'm pretty sure the tractor is a 2005. My dad is going to double check just to make sure. I'm hoping its not the IP and something much more simple that we are just over looking.

 

[Dave107]

another thing, If the stop solenoid and fuel solenoid are different where exactly would the fuel solenoid be located? Could that be an issue as to why it would not start?

 

[ritcheyvs]

another thing, If the stop solenoid and fuel solenoid are different where exactly would the fuel solenoid be located? Could that be an issue as to why it would not start?

Same thing. The Stop Solenoid stops the engine by moving the fuel injection pump rack full aft, a setting that injects zero fuel. The only other solenoid is part of the starter.

The injection pump is a precision device that measures out small, precise amounts of fuel and pumps it to the injectors under high pressure (like 2000-3000 psi) at a precise point in the compression stroke of each cylinder. The IP rack controls the amount of fuel pumped to each injector: zero fuel with the rack full aft and maximum fuel with the rack full forward. The rack is lightly spring-loaded to go forward to rest against the governor arm. If the RPM is too slow the governor allows the rack to move more forward and vice versa.

Voltmeters (aka multimeters) are easy to find these days. You can find them at Walmart, any auto parts place, Radio Shack, etc. Harbor Freight has them at very low prices. For your purposes, the cheapest meter you can find should work fine. For example: 7 Function Multimeter

 

[Dave107]

I made a mistake the tractor is not a 2005 it's actually a 2007 sorry for the wrong info

 

[Dave107]

Thank you guys for all the good info, I will take a look at what I can this weekend and post how I made out.

 

[bullshipper99]

My DK40 has a main fuse located between the battery and the ignition switch. Mine was covered in black electricians tape wrapped around the cable and it looked like a mickey mouse repair but is a fuse-able link put there from the factory. When nothing lit up including the glow plug, I unwrapped it and found it blown. I think it is 60a.
After replacement it worked fine.

I re-wrapped it with red elec tape so it stands out.

Good Luck.

BW