new tractor idea possibly....

[boggen]

at a stand still... of what type of bracket to use on the lower portion. that connects the rod of hyd cylinder, and the 2 smaller pipes... there is also need for a "hinge" action on this bracket. to connect to the lower subframe that connects to the transport wheels....



will deal with lengths of hyd cylinder and pipes, a few steps later, (want to get bracket done) so i can get a better accurate measurement.

 

[boggen]

redrawing everything up, and labeling parameters, off of above diagram, tis a learning experience.

but before i forget....

in order to deal with getting either hyd fluid or coolant (antifreeze/water mix) down to the transport wheels hyd motors or electrical motors. using the 2 pipes on each side of the hyd cylinders that raise and lower the transport wheels. turn them into funky hyd cylinder. were hyd fluid or anti freeze goes through a double acting hyd cylinder. basically turning the cylinder into a telescoping pipe. that operates much like a double acting hyd cylinder.

other thing before i forget....
in order to get distance measurement for how far a hyd cylinder has extended or contracted. set something up on one of the pipes on either side of the hyd cylinders that raise and lower transport wheels. and setup a sensor on one of them. perhaps mounted inside one of the pipes. to keep dirt, dust, etc... from interfering with sensor readings.

 

[boggen]

i am still not happy with transport wheels raise and lowering of them.

i set my limits of....

---3 feet total rise and lower
---1 foot to lift everything up off the ground during transport mode. so there is enough clearance under neath everything, to get over steeper sudden changes in hills and bumps that come along.
---middle 1 foot, normal operational range in field mode.
---1 foot upper limit. to deal with adjustments side to side to deal with weight adjustments, and perhaps getting out of muddy situations.

---6 feet total height though would like to see 5 feet total height, counting wheel hights to top height point that sticks up.

---2 inches of clearance around transport wheels regardless at what rotation they are at. along with 2 inches above them.

---8 to 10 inches above the 2 inch clearance to deal with 360 joint or what ever may need to be directly located above transport wheels.

---8 feet total width
---each side is set back 2 feet to allow for implements to be folded up onto the sstt (sideways snake train tractor), and implements basically rest right on top of the transport wheels, when in transport mode.

==========
other things
---accurate reading of how far a hyd cylinder has extended
---pressure sensors on both hoses coming off of each double acting cylinder. to deal with better weight distribution.
---an attempt to stay with max of 4 cylinders (1 hyd cylinder per set of transport wheels a set = 2 wheels setup as duals or rather narrow front end tractor)

=========
dis likes....
---2 hyd cylinders per set of transport wheels way hyd cylinder goes. entire thing falls apart and collapses to the ground.
---scissor linkages, to many things could go wrong and more so "bending" and things beginning to hang up.
---everything i drew up so far for extra linkages to reduce overall hyd cylinder length, only adds extra complexity and bigger weak points and in that point of failures.

=========
unsure about....
---cross bracing. to obtain backup, and better structural support. when in transport mode. and hyd cylinders are extend up to there max of 36 inches. backup... if one hyd cylinder goes down. there at min one other hyd cylinder on that same side. to hold things. to at most limp back to the shed / shop.
---extra pipe on each side of each hyd cylinder, or C with T or I metal bars to act like sliding tracks. to help beef up things some. vs sizing hyd cylinder diameters and lengths for internal seals longer.

==============
==============
==============
==============
with above said. i am over my head in known metal grades, and thicknesses. let alone having any idea of physical total weight the SSTT would have that the transport wheels would need to handle. going to call it good enough for now for transport wheels.

complete rebuild for parameters, not really liking the pipes as noted earlier in post, got side tracked on a couple other ideas and did not put in the main frame block. to make things look better. (not sure what main frame will actually look like yet)


some more hangman games for linkages. played around with more than what is shown for linkages to reduce hyd cylinder length, nothing that could work, could fit within the limits noted above....


redo of lower frame that connects wheel sets. to have "wheel wells" to help gain some extra space. though the C and T or I beam. gave up before finishing up. just not seeing it happen.

 

[boggen]

another few more games of hang man game but with 4' foot diameter AG / R1 tire.



below version. i kinda like. i am able to use a solid bar link between the U shape track, and axle of wheel, and then a hyd cylinder to swing tire out some. the the U shape track. seems to be pretty nice. but how to put power to the track. to move say a 12" inch wide back and forth on the track is a problem in itself.
==pro the 1 cylinder going down to the tire axle. only needs to extend about 6 to 8 inches. and rest of it could be frame. longer the cylinder is placed, the better off in dealing with mud and ruts and allowing tire to sink further down vs rest of the tires on the SSTT.



below diagram. uses 2 hyd cylinder, and between the 2 cylinders, a pipe inside of another pipe, to act like a guide. gives a few more inches of clearance. overall this clearance might be extremely nice long term. to being able to raise and lower the tire and down to the ground. without having to place the physical main frame (spine) of the SSTT higher above the AG / R1 tire.
===both cylinders need to extend about 14inches.



scissors linkages. i am actually interested in. they look like they could actually work. vs transport wheel usage. it would still require 2 hyd cylinders. but would allow some extra reach perhaps.

==================
i would still like to do some rotation of the 4' diameter AG / R1 tires. maybe 10 degrees in each direction, perhaps more if possible. the AG tire does not need to do 360 degree rotation, nor 90 degree rotation, just a few degrees. i think would really help long term to some ugly situations. example driving across a hill or up or down a hill at an angle. in order to go straight across the hill without slipping back down the hill. to making some odd ball twists and turns in fields, (around run a ways (grassy areas to deal with run off water and erosion) to field edges that are not nice and straight clear down the field but have some curvature to them.

the problem is the complexity of AG wheels turning just a few degree even. is going to be out of most novice or intermediate operators i would imagine.

brain storming, i might see having tires rotate a couple degrees might make it easier to backup and re-arrange things if you mis-judge distance, or GPS is off, or perhaps GPS is correct but you end up sliding some down a hill knocking the GPS statement of when to exactly turn and how much off is thrown off some from simple sliding down the hill some.

hhmmmsss *light bulb shines* goes off to autodesk inventor.

 

[boggen]

not much done this weekend. i tried a few other setups. to slightly rotate the 4 foot diameter AG / R1 tires. and gave up on the ideas fairly quickly before finishing things out. just could not see anything happening with the ideas as i started seeing things started to form up.

below is what i am currently thinking about for AG / R1 tires.
--2 hyd cylinders
--1 central pipe inside of a pipe. (((special note))) in order to keep things flopping the pipe connecting to lower axle. does not have a pivot point. but just bolts / welded directly to the lower frame. playing hang man game. seems to work this out fairly well for distances and constraints placed on things.



EDIT: just caught when assembling things, i put one of the tires on backwards. so tread for both tire is not in same direction. perhaps this might actually be wanted now that i think about it. if same type of implements are hooked up on both sides of the SSTT at the same time. to make cornering in fields quicker, for say plows, or discs, or like. then again, perhaps a different tread pattern might be better suggested for SSTT when all said and done. vs a typical tire tread for a current age tractor.

 

[boggen]

i am ready to destroy autodesk inventor, from randomly crashing, non stop suddenly.

it is hitting ram, to video card, to hard disk. problems after autodesk inventor crashes. and ends up requiring a restart of computer. so win 7 can run diagnostic tests. and everything comes back fine.

everything is up to date with latest drivers and patches, etc...

i have not formatted and reinstalled everything on this computer since i got it. and that has been a 3 to 5 years now... so might give that as a last ditch effort. to see if there is some corruption going on. going to wait till black friday hits. here in about a month though. to hopefully snag a descent deal for a new hard drive. to much junk to backup on dvd to try a format reinstall right at this moment.

==================
trying to draw a rubber track in inventor, and not making much progress, see above....

i thought about trying to go with a longer track setup. instead of being restricted to 4 feet long. trying to shoot for 8 feet. if i could some how easily get the sprockets and rollers and everything that makes up a track to fold up some, and then be able to shift from side to side, and lift up and down some. and for course rotate.

*ya* eyes are bigger than my stomach with above most likely. but *shrugs* maybe there some simple solution that is just perfect that allows it all.

though at moment, the way autodesk and computer, is fighting me, i might be better off going at linkages for implements. simpler shapes = less taxing the computer. and hit tracks later on.

 

[boggen]

finally getting to a point were i am no longer searching for commands / buttons for general building of things! woot! and i think i am down to a video driver or codec giving me problems with constant crashing of autodesk inventor. seems some sort of "advertisement" not sure if java or flash, or quicktime, or other. loading up in a webpage i have open in firefox, and as soon as it loads on some page, it crashes autodesk inventor. have not really narrowed it down beyond that, heck it might be openGL or directx, and causing conflicts between what ever is loading up in a webpage and autodesk inventor. since i have just limited firefox to just TBN, and no other webpages, i have not had a problem with autodesk inventor. earlier had a bunch of webpages err tabs open. and autodesk inventor was crashing every few minutes. *shrugs*

===================
played some more hangman for implement linkages....
they all look the same, but when loaded different dimension placement on lines really shows up. in how implements lower / raise, push in out.

hap haphazardly drew up a 20 foot wide, 14 long, 2.2 feet high chisel implement. no real thought to creating it. beyond something to help visualize implement linkages.


====================
when i started seeing actual physical lengths of hyd cylinders would need to be. for implement linkages. it really hit me, of why is there a need to attach implements on both sides of the SSTT. (sideways snake train tractor)???????

and i just remember about wanting front implement hookups. for the SSTT.... nevermind. back to what i was doing to hopefully figure out brackets and frames.....

 

[boggen]

running out of length for hyd cylinders both on contraction and extension of them. along with having to much "slop" in how the linkages would rest in either transport mode or in field mode. and the slop would end up causing a binding up problem. causing implement not to be able to lower/raise between transport mode and field mode.



next round of tries, is going to take some extra time, both of hinge points and brackets. to hopefully find some extra needed room.

=====================

every time i draw something up been starting from scratch each time. for hyd cylinders....

and starting to like below setup for a single hyd cylinder in the middle. then 4 pipes welded directly to the outside of the cylinder itself.
then the rod for the hyd cylinder and 4 other rods mounted on another bracket.



while above diagram hyd cylinder (rod itself) is not completely drawn out. i am liking ability to add a bracket around each end of the cylinder itself. to help re-enforce the cylinder end, that the rod comes out of, when the rod is fully extended. and help keep things from buckling. the 4 pipes and 4 extra rods / pipes help add some "width" and "height" to get some extra structural support. and keeps everything moving freely. without taking up to much room. perhaps modifying the 4 pipes and rods that go with them into "spring shocks" or air shocks, like you might see on a regular car / truck vehicle. to help produce extra pressure. and then placing valve for hyd cylinder in freeplay mode. were cylinder rod can move in and out freely. and just rely on the tension in the spring shocks to hold things enough to were they need to be. but still allow some movement.

 

[boggen]

starting to see the light



though looking right at picture i think a few more improvements can be made. to find a bit more wiggle room in how long a cylinder can extend and contract by moving the brackets from the very ends, to a few inches up on the cylinder.

 

[boggen]

*ear to ear grin* much much better. and should have full freedom to gain a few extra inches +/- for all cylinders and movements for implement linkages.

 

[boggen]

playing "hangman" again, but for tracks this time.

i think it would be easy enough to add a "triangle" track setup...
but problem is limited to about 4 foot long. just not enough space to squeeze anything longer in between implements located on both sides of the SSTT.

so i thought about adding some extra wheels / rollers, so the track could be "folded" up and at all times keep the tension placed on the track. so it would not fall out of alignment with sprockets and groves that the track ran on. that idea lasted long enough for me to get frustrated trying to draw something up. and trying to find space that was not there to begin with.

then thought about 2 tracks approx 3 feet long for total of 6 feet. i am hoping i can find enough room. for this. were i can "flop" each individual track upside down to keep everything inline. when driving in one direction. and then do another flop, to allow tracks to be driven in opposite direction. and keeping the tension pulley/wheel/roller going in correct direction vs driving/powered sprocket/wheel. or at very least. i could state track adjust to ground slope. and allow for weight distribution.

 

[boggen]

been chasing my tail for most part of today.

going to need to go through "pathing" tutorials for setting tracks or chains on sprockets. tried on my own but never did get it figured out quickly enough.

went for 4 sets of tracks. thinking i might be able to pull it all off. but before tracks even got applied over the wheels. i am looking at "transport wheels" without the tracks on them and no 360 joint.

====================
after a few days, since transport wheels. i am a tad lost on dimensions of what i am limited to. i think i am going to tackle a generic main frame for the entire SSTT. and begin attaching wheels / tracks / implement linkages. and do a little fine tuning on actual dimension of things.

 

[boggen]

weekend and monday never got a chance to work on the SSTT.

today, ended up re-drawing all the cylinders, and brackets, and a 60 long, 2 wide, 2 tall (main frame) for implement linkages. thought i could squeeze out a few more inches. to allow implements height to get upwards of almost 36 inches. vs 24 inches that i originally was going with.

but if ya take a look at pictures, trying to place brackets so everything freely moves without ramming into something as implement folds in/out and up/down. is getting a bit nerve racking. of constantly changing dimensions. and re-starting from scratch for brackets so things do not bind up.

going to hold off from another run of brackets. till i get the transport wheels at min added to the overall assembly to double check min/max height i have to work with for implement linkages.

 

[boggen]

started to re-draw the transport wheels linkages and frame for them, one more time. and haphazardly drew up some gears, a straight bar, and a hydraulic cylinder. wanting to finish out the frame, decided to hit the 360 joint one more time for were 2 hydraulic oil lines, and 1 compressed air line runs through it.

360 joint going to take more time than i thought. to shrink everything down even further. and i think it is finally starting to take shape. both in overall width, and height that it takes up.



was hoping things would move quicker along, but re-drawing everything over and over again. and more to the point doing a general drawing, and then re-drawing it, for better detail and more exact measurements... and then a redo for even better measurements. i just have not got the grove yet, that i thought i was in. methods keep changing as more and more detail gets put into things.

 

[boggen]

been more of a cram session more than anything today. talking to my cousin. for 2 to 4 hours. that went through some collage classes last year.

need to get the thoughts down before i forget them....

counter axle to help keep main shaft and output shaft, in a transmission from splitting the case apart. and help transfer torque by doubling shafts up. but if wanted could remove counter axle shaft.

teeth type for gears for quieter sound.

think it just now hit me what he was driving at some what. with a hyd cylinder, and the 360 joint rotation. and a worm gear,, err pinion gear he was showing me for get thing teeth to mesh up. were the worm gear is not actually driven by a electrical motor or hydraulic motor. but rather. the hyd cylinder moving back and forth.

showed me some info pictures in books/handouts he had, for transmissions. and old style fork plate, sleeves / clutches, to friction disc clutches. all gears in transmissions stay stationary.

1 - 4 then taking up length and then low,mid,high end second gear set at very end. the low,mid,high gear end hit me pretty good as a possibility.

for the tooth bar, that turns 360 joint, don't know the bearing type right off hand. but flat bars held in a partial groves. along with extra gear or 2 that just free spins to go up against the tooth side of the bar. to keep the bar from twisting out of place.

i know i am missing good portion of rest of the talk. still sinking it all in.

STEERING and BRAKES, when air and/or hyd goes out. what is needed the most steering. cousin nailed me hard on that one.

=================

no pictures for this post. (see bottom last picture in last post) been trying to come up with a easy way for the ports for hyd oil and compressed air, for top of 360 joint. and make things actually machinable, to be created easily, and bolted or like together. i think i am down to the last and hopefully final idea. of cutting a grove deeper in a select spot or drilling some holes right next to each other. and then just weld on some threaded pipe ends, with a little bit wider patch. over the grove or drilled holes.

been trying to stay away from full idea of molded metal parts like injection molded plastic parts. and trying best to stay with parts that can be set into a vise and a drill or a cutting wheel, or use of a lathe can be used to make needed doings. if i can make them by hand, then hopefully a machine would be able to do it without any problems and much better accuracy than i could do by hand.

and the whole being able to make them by hand. has tossed every idea for those ports to the trash bin.

======================
before i forgot, also need to move some groves from middle section of 360 joint up into the main upper piece. hopefully remove another 1/2" from overall height. maybe more...

alright, visualizing way to many things in my head, time to get back to autodesk inventor. and get them roughly drawn out.

 

[boggen]

been sending in error reports through the pop up window that shows up after autodesk inventor 2013 crashes. and some of the emails that i got back, noted service pack 1.1 and good portion of day been trying to get the updated service pack, installed, and so far no good. and getting hung up on ASMKERN218I.DLL file.

more frustrated than anything. given up on service pack 1.1 update for now.... *frowns* and looks like some of the fixes, is what i am running into, as well *bigger frown*

========================



at movement trying to figure out. how in the world, i am going to handle the "toothed" bar. that is used to rotate the transport wheels 360 degrees. or rather i should state rotate approx 200 degrees in each direction.

i need to keep tooth bar tight up against the gear, and at same time keep the tooth bar from bending. along with rotating and twisting (keep teeth aligned up and not end up at some odd angle))

i am not really seeing bearings happening at all to keep tooth bar lined up.

i thought about just dropping a 1/4" to 1/2" thick wall pipe around the tooth bar. and notching it out. were the gear is. and i may still do that.

though last brainstorm thoughts, is possibly doing something like a belt and pulley setup. or rather make that. instead of a belt on a pulley, the round toothed bar would ride in 2 to 4 pulleys to keep things ligned up and up against the gear.

the problem with above ideas, is i almost need some sort of "rail" to keep the tooth bar from "rotating off and away from the gear. i thought about tossing some fins onto the tooth bar. and add some tracks for the fins to ride in. and i may try that.

i may end up going with a thin flat bar vs round tooth bar. and making clearance for the round hyd cylinder rod. and just letting everything slide in a molded setup.

=================
to note it, i had to go with a reduction gearing. with the toothed bar. simply not enough space. and limited to 8 feet width. once i remove, spacing for seals, 0-rings, bracing for a hyd cylinder. plus some extra bracing for tooth bars and a encasement for everything. i end up loosing say foot.

then tied into a needed diameter of the main slew gear. and really can not make it much smaller than what it already is.

i would imagine i might be able to pickup a different gear ratio, putting a few more teeth on the tooth bar. to pickup a few more degrees of rotation of wheels. but math behind figuring out type of teeth and how to dimension them is above me. but even then, i do not think those few degrees would give me enough degrees that would be needed.

=============
on a different note: so far happy with the hyd oil and compressed air parts that fit through the center of the slew gear. i did not actually do the math for exact dimensions for a given GPM of hyd oil or CFM of air. but there should be enough wiggle room, to change things just enough.

one thing i am still worried about is the "seals" in the above parts. dealing with 3000 PSI hyd oil. and then dealing with shock loads... i don't know. i may be right back at the drawing board fairly quickly.

 

[boggen]

Medusa head for toothed rod. ok maybe that would be expensive to actually make. perhaps, going with something like a PTO shaft end, that sticks out the rear of tractors. vs a wave of arcs. hhmmsss that could work.

 

[boggen]

*rubs chin* my mind is getting a tad foggy, if a planetary gear setup vs reduction gear could work. way to much math for my brain to handle at moment. let alone finding the math. for basic generic calculations.

for the toothed bar, i don't know yet. looks way to complex still. along with needing to get oil or grease or lubrication in between the bar and the track it goes into.

part of wanting to see if planetary gear would work. is another attempt to reduce overall height the 360 joint takes up. though looking at things. not sure if it would be needed, i may still go with reduction gears as now, but possibly add a couple ring gears into the mix. na.... will just beef the living daylights out of things if need be.

 

[boggen]

trial and error with more autodesk problems, finally think i got things sorted out. though resulted in a good amount of re-drawing of a good amount of parts. to get past the crashing of autodesk, and BSD (blue screens of death). to many links between different parts in different files i guess. i don't know. running smooth and fast now.



rack and pinion, to deal with rotating the wheels for turning purposes. is becoming problem-matic. re-thinking of how what other ways everything can be ran. including arc's to bending the pipe, etc... to get around the raising / lowering cylinders of the transport wheels. to running another gear for a angled across things.

so far not real happy, and trying to visualize things in my mind, to keep lubrication (oil or grease) in. and still allow connection point of a hyd cylinder

 

[boggen]

YA! finally got into doctor today, and get some injections, to deal with some muscle nerve issues. hopefully my mind will be speeding down the field once again at full throttle. vs trying to figure out what 2 plus 2 equals.



back to the transport wheels.... at one time i thought i would be able to make it so there would be 4 wheels (2 lefts, 2 rights) would have there own set of raising lowering cylinders, and own cylinder for 360 joint to rotate it. but space is simply not there, without adding an extra 8 to 12 inches. and if i add the extra space, and transport wheels sink up to the axle other parts would be dragging and digging in as well, and just be one ugly stuck mess trying to get the SSTT (sideways snake train tractor) out of the mud.

but now it is look like....
2 front left
2 from right
2 rear left
2 rear right
total of 8 tires. will have 4 hyd cylinders to raise and lower them to the ground. and then i am not sure if i am going to stick with a single hyd cylinder or go with 2 hyd cylinders to rotate the 360 joint.

i have room to enlarge the reduction gears. and i might be able to either run a shaft between left side 360 joints and another shaft on right side 360 joints. problem is... keeping everything as low profile as possible.

WAIT a min....

that might work better, a hyd cylinder on left side 360 and a hyd cylinder on right side 360 joints. and keep all the ugly shafts from going from left to right side and vice vs....

hhmmsss THE PROBLEM.... needing adjust wheels for row / crop. doings. GGGRRRR. i guess go back at it and see what i can come with vs, shorting the idea out, vs seeing if it is even possibly by rough set of numbers.

========================
========================
=========================
on a different note, been going over...

hyd pumps. a good portion of the yesterday, was re-inventing the wheel. and trying generic stuff out in autodesk inventor, ya it may seem pretty pointless, but it was a learning experence, and helped me clarify, what would and would not work. and portion of today, was re-looking back at video's on youtube.

i am down to axial and radial type of hyd motors.

the one big issue has been, using up space, as in the replacing the rim of a tire with a hyd motor. looking over on Please wait while we redirect... website. all the hyd motors are foot ball size. give or take a few inches in any direction.

also the piston sizes or rather cubic inch of displacement and GPM and RPM, and PSI

the RPM's for transport wheels are a bigger issue compared to field only mode large 4 foot diameter AG/R1 tires, and tracks for in field mode. transport tires need the low RPM's while in field mode, then high RPM's when in transport mode going 25 to 40 MPH down the road. and honestly been looking at 65MPH down the road. why not at this point. no were near a point of being able to narrow things down.

gearing is an issue.
---thought about instead of gearing, put in 2 circles of pistons in a axial hyd pump, the smaller ring, fewer piston circle = higher RPMs or MPH, and then the larger ring with more pistons, = slower speeds and more torque. and then dropping a 1 to 3 speed transmission / gear setup.
---for radial hyd motors putting in 2 rows one with larger pistons and another row beside it with smaller pistons. and same as above, smaller pistons = for higher RPMs / MPH, and larger pistons for slower speeds and more torque.

----i have thought about setting up 2 rows of pistons of same size for both axial or radial hyd motors, and instead of running all the pistons in parallel all the time which would give a lower RPM and high torque, i thought about running every other one or 2 or 3 in series, and en essence change gears for higher RPM's other words, i would be changing a 4" diameter bore hyd cylinder 3" inches long. to a 1" diameter bore hyd cylinder 24 inches long. ((how ever that math works out, to lazy to open up spread sheet and do the math for this example)) by simply changing the pattern of were hyd flows in/out of each piston.

----i have also thought about just beefing up the metal, of everything. so i can just push more GPM of hyd oil through a hyd motor. to get the RPM's that would be wanted. that in itself, i don't know about this idea, due to higher GPM that get pushed through the hyd motor, the more friction loss that is created. and efficiency begins going down, along with more heat that gets produced. more GPM = larger size hyd hoses and pipes. larger hoses = smaller bend radius of hoses before causing problems with the hoses, and there will be enough hoses, that bend radius could be a big problem. and then with heat, = more hyd oil cooling that would be needed and efficiency just keeps going down across the entire SSTT. i could raise hyd pressure from 3000PSI up to say 5000PSI, but for now trying stay with 3000PSI hyd oil pressure. larger diameter hyd hoses cost $$$ more. not talking 1/2" or 3/4" but more likely 1" to 2" in order to keep friction loss down to an acceptable level.

=================
actual regular gears like in a transmission. i have been thinking about them. from planetary to spur gears. and different arrangements. and at moment, i keep jumping away from gears. good portion is, because, i do know know / comprehend, the math that is needed to be known. for gears. and to keep gears from stripping teeth and like. but other is, physical space that is there, to place gears. i need room for a hyd motor, brake, gearing, and have room to place in each rim of 2 wheels, and then a short 4 to 8 inch width between the 2 wheels. plus need to route some wires for sensors and hyd oil itself. plus an air line for brakes. possibly an another air line, to supply air pressure to shift between gears. then gear oil or hyd oil, to everything. if hyd oil. do i run another small little hyd pump and pump fluid back and forth between each axle or install or other.... those higher end MPHs are going to be creating some heat in them transport tires, when sstt is in transport mode going down the road.

that last paragraph in itself is overwhelming me at moment.

===========================
===========================
ya and i thought it would be simple, *chuckles with a grin* off to make some plates for hyd motors, to see if i can run all pistons parallel, and/or every other 1,2,3,4,5,6 in series.