New trailer

BlackRaptor · Mar 30, 2009

I don't post in this area much but i've been doing a lot of reading looking for a trailer.
I ended up with a PJ 20 footer 7000lb. I'm really happy with it I've been hunting for almost a year for a trailer and this one fit all my needs. it's got the side ramps on it as well so I can use it for loading atv's.
This trailer forum really helped me when i was hunting around.

dodge man · Mar 30, 2009

Nice, I like it, it matchs your truck too.

Diamondpilot · Mar 30, 2009

Nice trailer. Matches the truck. You now just need to get rid of that green tractor and get a RED one. Also, invest in some proper tie down equipment. You should know what you need since you have been doing a lot of reading here.

Chris

BlackRaptor · Mar 30, 2009

Haha Chris you sound like my grandpa and the red tractor thing *Case dealer his whole life* no close dealers was my reasoning. lucky for me i'm still in the will.
The straps are 3000lb break a piece but I agree WAY too light duty. I just put it on the trailer for pictures and to see how it fit and I wanted to see where the best tie points where on it. I went to fleet farm last night and got some 5000 load 10,000 break. I think those should be good wouldn't they be? I haven't opened up yet so I can return them if you think they are too light I'm guessing the tractor is 4000lb with the blade and loader.
Any advice would be great.

JMynes · Mar 30, 2009

Wow. Glad to know those straps were just for show. They look like they'll break any second.
I use 4 of those (one on each corner) to tie down my 800# touring bike. I expect they are up to that job, but sometimes I wonder.

wushaw · Mar 30, 2009

Chains & binders for the tractor and either straps or chains for implements.

buckle97 · Mar 30, 2009

Good looking trailer!

BlackRaptor · Mar 31, 2009

I would like to avoid chain binders if I can.
are my straps good enough or if not can i get some that can take the place of chain binders?

JB4310 · Mar 31, 2009

BlackRaptor said:
I would like to avoid chain binders if I can.
are my straps good enough or if not can i get some that can take the place of chain binders?

Don't think you would have any problem with 4 of those 5K straps, having the closed in trailer adds a degree of safety, but I see there are limited attachment points on the front of the trailer.
Ideally you want your strap to come down and away from the tractor, not 90 degrees sideways and not straight out to the front either. 90 degrees sideways provides little fore and aft movement and straight out allows side to side movement.

If the front of your tractor is like mine, then the front frame behind the weight bracket is a good spot for the front. The rear might be tougher, I have a BH sub frame, without that you may have to go around the axle if you can find a spot that wont damage anything.

Good luck, JB.

BlackRaptor · Mar 31, 2009

Thanks JB4310. I was hoping what I had gotten was strong enough.
I'm thinking about adding in some tie points on the front and rear so I can pull out and down more so.
Thanks for the help.

JB4310 · Mar 31, 2009

Just to clarify, I meant 4 straps of 5 K WLL, 1 on each of the 4 corners of the tractor, plus 1 on rear implement and 1 on loader, for a total of 6.

Some guys really don't like the straps, But I think you would be OK.

Since you can still return them, then I'd call the dealer and see what they recommend, maybe before you dirty them you'll change your mind and go with chains.

Personally I use chains and binders for the machine and straps for the implements and loader.

JB.

BlackRaptor · Apr 1, 2009

Thanks everyone for your help.

bigdad · Apr 2, 2009

That is a nice trailer!

Some states require you to secure your load from all four corners. Got cautioned for that once while pulling a trailer with a skid loader and I had the front secured with a chain over the FEL and the rear secured with a chain through the eye of the rear hitch.

One of those situations where the officer said..."you ain't from around here are ya?" (Do I hear banjo music?)

BlackRaptor · Apr 2, 2009

I have one more question. I need to start pulling the tractor around this weekend outside of the farm site.
I need a brake controller. my truck is a 08 1500 Sierra I was told someone makes a brake controller that just plugs in under the dash no wiring needed. is this true? and who makes it?

Diamondpilot · Apr 2, 2009

Your truck if equipped with the tow package is equipped with the harness already installed. It should have a pig tail to splice into the brake controllers 4 wires. If you can not find the pig tail just buy a new one, the cost about $10. You will also need a Max Fuse, either 30 or 40 amp, depending on the trucks year. Any brake controller will work, just hit your local RV dealer or even Uhaul and they can set you up. This is your best option since time is limited.

Look in your manual for instructions or check out this site and hit the help tab then go to GM/Chevy for instructions.

R and P Carriages Trailer Sales, Service, Parts and Rentals

Chris

BlackRaptor · Apr 2, 2009

Thanks for your help Chris.

jwstewar · Apr 2, 2009

BR,

You will not have a pig tail seperate. Starting with the new body style GM did away with the harness.

There is now 4 wires up under the dash taped to a larger wire that you will have to splice into the wire lead that comes with the brake controller. You can no longer just do the plug and play.

I'm looking for a site that has the pictures that I used for reference when I did my Suburban last month. I'll post it when I find it.

OK, I found it. Look here: http://www.stealthv.com/images/GMT900_Trailer_Brake_Controller_Install.pdf

BTW, Chris, I did stop at Radio Shack last night and picked up mostof the stuff (LEDs, switchs, and project boxes) to build a testers for the truck & trailer wirings. I had picked the ends up a couple of weeks ago at Menards. Now I just need to get some wire for the truck side tester.

BlackRaptor · Apr 2, 2009

jwstewar Thank you for the link.
Thats too bad they went away from the plug and play. hopefully it's not too much harder to do.
I'll get this installed tomorrow night.
Thanks again.

jwstewar · Apr 2, 2009

Here is the link I used to wire it up on my Suburban. http://www.justanswer.com/questions/yp0l-connect-tlr-brake-controller-2007 This one even tells you how to hook the aux power wire up to charge your battery.

It is easy to hook up. There are just 4 wires to slice. Hard part is recognizing the wires under the dash.

Don't make the same mistake I did. The 12v and the brake wire are big wires and they are red & blue. The ground and the brake light signal are small. Ground is white and the bls is white with a very small very light blue tracer. When I was hooking it up, must have dropped one and picked the other up. The controller (Tekonsha P3) immediately told me I had a short. So I check and that is what happened. But then I couldn't get the brake signal, but I couldn't find any blown fuses on any of the brake lights and all brake lights worked. Couldn't figure it out. Next day Monica called me and asked why the cruise control wouldn't work.

They must piggy back the controller off the cruise control circuit.

jwstewar · Apr 2, 2009

If any one is looking for a Tekonsha P3, I found mine on ebay NIB for $106.50 shipped. The guys name is gobatelli. It was new and came quick. I think I had it within 2 days. I bought the P3 for less than most people are buying "cheap" controllers. I think he sells the Prodigy for around $95. I have both. Both are great controllers, but I really like the P3.