New Trailer

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  • Thread Starter
#21  
I agree with removing and inspecting bearings at some point. But I love the EZ-Lube spindles. The biggest issue with them is the lack of information and the abundance of bad advice on how to use them properly.
Not one trailer dealer has ever told me to fill them until you purge all the old grease out. They all just say "only 2 pumps a year" Which is the wrong way.
Another thing I really like, and other brand trucks may do it, but I love how I can enter all my different trailers by name in the dash display of my Ford.
That way I can track exact mileage of all my trailers right from the day I pick them up at dealer.
 
   / New Trailer
  • Thread Starter
#22  
That surprises me. What brand trailer is that?

I have an Aluma trailer I bought 9 years ago; I use it mainly to haul my side by side but I've also hauled cars and SUVs on it. Bet I've got at least 20,000 miles on it now - it is overdue for new tires. Most of my towing is on dirt roads and yet the Aluma has held up well - never had anything break. I have had to put a layer of rubber over the fenders and a protective barrier over the front because gravel thrown up by the tow vehicle was seriously pitting the aluminum.
Was a Bearco made in Ontario Canada. They were a great company to deal with, great pricing and they they stood behind their product. But like I said it had way too much flex. The fenders never stopped cracking where they attached.
The doubled up cross members in the pics is what I had added and Bearco did pay me for that. I did three sets. And now I see their newest trailers all have added cross members, so they did see my issues and tried to correct.
The trailer was rated for 5700 pound payload, but it sure didn't like my 5000 pound Ford 3000 diesel.
 

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   / New Trailer
  • Thread Starter
#23  
And here's pics of me breaking the tailgate with my Ford 3000 when I got lazy and didn't put wood blocks under the center joint.
 

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   / New Trailer #25  
And here's pics of me breaking the tailgate with my Ford 3000 when I got lazy and didn't put wood blocks under the center joint.
20250628_111120-jpg.4174131


Those ramps just don't look sufficient for the load. The Ford 3000 is listed at only about 3700 lbs + ballast + implements. Not too heavy, but I'd expect to load less than 1K on the ramps..

What is the weight rating on the trailer?

I'm not convinced that this is a mark against all Aluminum trailers, but a company certainly does have to take care with the build.

My parents had a custom aluminum horse trailer built. A few small maintenance issues over the years, but it is now over 20 years old, and in regular use by the second owner.
 
   / New Trailer
  • Thread Starter
#26  
20250628_111120-jpg.4174131


Those ramps just don't look sufficient for the load. The Ford 3000 is listed at only about 3700 lbs + ballast + implements. Not too heavy, but I'd expect to load less than 1K on the ramps..

What is the weight rating on the trailer?

I'm not convinced that this is a mark against all Aluminum trailers, but a company certainly does have to take care with the build.

My parents had a custom aluminum horse trailer built. A few small maintenance issues over the years, but it is now over 20 years old, and in regular use by the second owner.
I've had my Ford 3000 on the MTO scales, it's 5000 pounds. It's the diesel version.
As you can see, those ramps have held up quite well for the number of times that tractor has drove over them. But like I say, I usually put wood blocks under the pivot hinges. Didn't look like a lot of weld penetration where it broke.
That trailer was rated for 5700 pound payload.
 

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