New ym240d owner

   / New ym240d owner
  • Thread Starter
#41  
Heck, at this rate, I could simply machine the long pin to be 1/2 larger diameter just outside of the lift arm ball. That shoulder would do all the holding and placement of the lift arm. I could neck it back down again to accept the proper threaded sleeve auth the hub side. Eliminate the pin and washer completely and just build it in.
 
   / New ym240d owner #42  
Yes, that's what I was visualizing.

jimjumper's photo looks like the OEM one is made that way.
 
   / New ym240d owner #43  
Perhaps cotter pin was the wrong term. I was thinking more like this style.
At least 3/16”
I figure 3/16” would be sufficient to keep the arm inward. Maybe a flat washer between the pin and lift arm ball. View attachment 649995

I fear that even that style pin in place of a cotter pin will not hold up to the force that can be placed on the lower lift arms and pins holding them. Realize the size of lynch pins that are used to secure your lower lift arms to the implement pins. My tractor uses a similar pin with lynch pin to secure the lower lift arms at the differential housing. Also keep in mind that lynch pins are harden.
With all that in mind, if you have the capability of making pins on a lathe, you should also have tools to make very exacting measurements, my suggestion is to carefully measure, then cut threads and secure your long pins with nuts and lock washers. I could not tell you the last time I removed my lower lift arms. So ease of removal is very low on my list of concerns.

I should have read ahead! The shoulder ideal is a very good one!
 
   / New ym240d owner #44  
I fear that even that style pin in place of a cotter pin will not hold up to the force that can be placed on the lower lift arms and pins holding them. Realize the size of lynch pins that are used to secure your lower lift arms to the implement pins. My tractor uses a similar pin with lynch pin to secure the lower lift arms at the differential housing. Also keep in mind that lynch pins are harden.
With all that in mind, if you have the capability of making pins on a lathe, you should also have tools to make very exacting measurements, my suggestion is to carefully measure, then cut threads and secure your long pins with nuts and lock washers. I could not tell you the last time I removed my lower lift arms. So ease of removal is very low on my list of concerns.

I should have read ahead! The shoulder ideal is a very good one!
Yes, the original has a shoulder that keeps the arm from moving across the length of the pin. Also, and this is not original on my part, I connect my sway chains using a heavy padlock at each end. Keep the keys on the tractor key ring and it takes just a moment to take them on and off.
 
   / New ym240d owner #45  
I've thought about using a 1/4" load binder to make the sway assembly easier to attach/detach. But the ones with a decent rating are too long, and the only short one I've seen is rated only 250 lbs. It might be worthwhile to modify that version. Or the ratcheting type might be better.

Another project to consider ....
 
   / New ym240d owner #46  
I've thought about using a 1/4" load binder to make the sway assembly easier to attach/detach. But the ones with a decent rating are too long, and the only short one I've seen is rated only 250 lbs. It might be worthwhile to modify that version. Or the ratcheting type might be better.

Another project to consider ....

I would probably just put in a heavy duty chain link of the style that DOT approves for binder chain repair and use the quick pull pins on the end of the repair chain pin. Or a shackle/D ring to make a quick disconnect spot in the sway chain stabilizer. Once the pressure is relieved and the lower arm can be swung toward the sway chain the quick removal option should be quick to release.
Now the ratcheting load binder is one to think about for the top link and the tilt function on the 3 pt hitch!
 
   / New ym240d owner #47  
I would probably just put in a heavy duty chain link of the style that DOT approves for binder chain repair and use the quick pull pins on the end of the repair chain pin. Or a shackle/D ring to make a quick disconnect spot in the sway chain stabilizer. Once the pressure is relieved and the lower arm can be swung toward the sway chain the quick removal option should be quick to release.
Now the ratcheting load binder is one to think about for the top link and the tilt function on the 3 pt hitch!
I have that, and use it. But there's always too much tension to pull the pin until I loosen the length turnbuckle a couple of turns. Then if the new implement isn't perfectly aligned I need to loosen the turnbuckle, maybe the other one, quite a bit before I can get the pin back in.

Replacing that link with a very short load binder would make everything easier.

This photo is what's on the small YM186D. There's no room for a load binder. Hopefully the arms on the YM240 are long enough. Trying load binders there is something I've thought about for a long time. But now the backhoe is nearly never removed from the YM240 so I'll never get around to it.

Incidently Jmlcolorado this is a much better picture of that long hinge on the YM186D that keeps everything in the same plane. But the pin would need a lot of reinforcement to work on the more powerful YM240.

Also incidentally - this chain repair link used as a coupler is a stronger replacement for what I found on the YM186D when I bought it. The previous ones weren't OEM and both were badly stretched to where cracks had appeared beyond the pins. Apparently cast from bad Chinesium and never should have been sold for chain repair. These replacements in the photo (date 11-6-10) still look strong as new after 10 years use. The damage to the old ones illustrates how much force is applied there.

I'm bored, after nearly a month of lockdown here. :(

187210d1289955171-replacement-sway-chains-p1600792rnewshackle-jpg
 
   / New ym240d owner #48  
I have that, and use it. But there's always too much tension to pull the pin until I loosen the length turnbuckle a couple of turns. Then if the new implement isn't perfectly aligned I need to loosen the turnbuckle, maybe the other one, quite a bit before I can get the pin back in.

Replacing that link with a very short load binder would make everything easier.

This photo is what's on the small YM186D. There's no room for a load binder. Hopefully the arms on the YM240 are long enough. Trying load binders there is something I've thought about for a long time. But now the backhoe is nearly never removed from the YM240 so I'll never get around to it.

Incidently Jmlcolorado this is a much better picture of that long hinge on the YM186D that keeps everything in the same plane. But the pin would need a lot of reinforcement to work on the more powerful YM240.

Also incidentally - this chain repair link used as a coupler is a stronger replacement for what I found on the YM186D when I bought it. The previous ones weren't OEM and both were badly stretched to where cracks had appeared beyond the pins. Apparently cast from bad Chinesium and never should have been sold for chain repair. These replacements in the photo (date 11-6-10) still look strong as new after 10 years use. The damage to the old ones illustrates how much force is applied there.

I'm bored, after nearly a month of lockdown here. :(

187210d1289955171-replacement-sway-chains-p1600792rnewshackle-jpg

Yes those are exactly the chain repair link I mentioned and the keeper pin. If you have you sway chains tightened to the point there is no sway, you will have to loosen the sway chain to get any movement (slack) to remove that main pin.
However, when I was a kid (now 59), I was taught that removing all sway was a sure way to break something! Therefore, I would leave a bit of sway in the chains. How much will vary with what you are doing, but the maximum minimum or minimum maximum sway would be keep the sway tight enough that the lower arms/implement stays out from rubbing the rear tires at all levels of lift height. (And yes I realize that is vague.)
With a bit of sway (side to side movement) you should be able to relieve enough pressure to pull the pin (you may need to add a pull ring to the pin). You may need that wiggle/pull process to get the first pin pulled. Then you should be able to get the second one much easier as more inward sway will be available.
Hope this is helpful! Hard sometimes to put a visual thing into a word picture.

As for the longer lower arm support, if putting it on the same old sway chain attachment point, mill a long pin on an internal thread post and use that additional contact point for additional support. Some blue lock-tite should hold it together if there is no space to include a jam nut in the end of the lower arm pin.
 
   / New ym240d owner #49  
...I was taught that removing all sway was a sure way to break something! Therefore, I would leave a bit of sway in the chains.
Interesting! I had assumed that was the case, but then got my neighbor's advice to get the sway chains tight to where you can get just a tiny wiggle. (Any tighter accelerates wear). He's third generation running his own apple orchard, now converted to grapes, and he contracts my orchard and others to total 200 acres that he maintains - prune, disc, thin, spray, harvest. Up to a dozen full time employees live at his bunkhouse. I rely on his advice for things like this where my amateur work will never put the hours on my equipment comparable to what he experiences.

I can see how too-tight stresses everything so I leave slight slack to avoid that.

Getting the pin out of the chain-splice needs a little slack or it won't move. But getting the pin back in later needs a lot of slack, because I can't pull all the slack out of the other components - so I back the turnbuckle way off as the first step to swapping implements. Avoiding that is why a chain binder looks like a better alternative. I wish I could find very short chain binders rated over 2k lbs because I think the flimsy 500~750 lb ones would get destroyed.

Incidentally (I'm bored :) ) Here's a recent improvement. I cut down a HF bar magnet and welded it to the top edge of the q-hitch. Now when I pull that chain-splice clip and then its pin, I have a place to hold them so they don't fall down in the weeds. The magnet is strong enough that it also works for those longer pins that adjust the height of the q-hitch's hook.


613928d1563755507-harbor-freight-tools-dont-suck-20190721_153609rmagnetbarweldedtoqhitch-jpg
 
   / New ym240d owner
  • Thread Starter
#50  
That magnet idea is awesome!
I might have to use that idea :)
 

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