very grateful for all of the help here. feel like I'm getting a better understanding of some things, even if my initial assumptions on some things may have been wrong and I need to make some adjustements in plans...
LAND:
On Western Mountain land and trees. Yes, our land at 7000 feet in Colorado is similar, - although we do have fir and pine to a couple of feet in diameter. Stumps from trees that size we just live with and drive around. Look at our equipment in the sidebar. We can remove a stump from a 24" pine but it takes hours and is VERY HARD on equipment.
What we have in the mountainous west is very different from the East or South. I grew up in Southern muddy hardwood mountains and can spell "chiggers" and 'opossom and gar . THat is different land. Down there they run loaded Ag R1 tires because they need to. On our dry sandy mountains we run unloaded wide Universal R4s with a back up set of chains.
COMPACTS & UTILITY TRACTORS:
Most any brand will do what you want. It's a maintenance machine that can do some real work. It just doesn't do it real fast. And you won't hurt it if you don't ask it to pick up and move too great of a load, don't run it into things, use 4wd as an assist when needed except ALWAYS IN 4WD GOING DOWNHILL! and don't engage the differential lock while the wheels are spinning.
Pay attention to those rules above - they are golden. Otherwise you can strain any tractor without doing any real damage to it. It's a tractor; it's made to work hard. When it can't lift or shift something it just won't lift or shift it. No damage happens. The wheels will spin and the hydraulics will squall and that doesn't hurt a thing if you listen, back off, and don't force it to do what it can't. Just don't beat on it and it will do fine.
A 25 hp will do some work, although from your pictures I'd say stay in the 40 to 60 hp range. Larger is OK, but over 60 hp you begin to lose handy maneuverability. HP is deceptive, what we mean when we say HP is weight and stability and lifting abiility. Those are what are really critical.
Tractors can and do turn over and especially when carrying a load. And they don't have front brakes... if you have a big load in the bucket your back wheels don't have enough traction to stop you. Think about that for a moment. The answer is to use 4wd ALWAYS when going downhill. 4wd connects the front tires to the rear brakes!! Most of the other time you won't need 4wd and the tractor is happier in 2wd.
NEW VS USED Tractors: I can't answer that for you. I'm mechanical, eventually evey rural person becomes at least a little bit that way. There are good used machines out there, but most of the are offered first to friends. The really good ones are rarely on the general market. If you have a trusted dealer who offers you a used machine then you should consider it. Or from a friend. Otherwise buy new this time - but keep your eyes open.
NEW VS USED Implements: This is where you really save money. Used implements are often as good as new ones and are a great way to learn about mechanical things without risking the tractor. Yes, old implements sometimes need welding. Lots of people do welding. It's a good way to meet neighbors. Eventually you may decide to have a $200 welder and do the simple stuff yourself. It's easy.
TRAILERS: I don't haul anymore so cannot help with that. But put some thought into ramps vs building a dirt ramp somewhere on your land. Probably both.
LATER: Good luck, Onto the other long message later.
What beautiful land you have there.
With all the aspen, do you have a wet spot for a little pond?
We built a little shallow pond by the creek and are amazed at the wildlife it brings. Even ducks find it. Mama bear brings her cubs to play in the water some afternoons.
rScotty
