Newbie MIG machine recommendation

[Smokeydog]

I have the Miller 211. Smart settings, takes big spools, and runs on 120 or 240V. I have the gals using it to make home decoration stuff from steer rods. Couple of suggestions: Buy the gas bottle and don't even attempt to use flux wire. Doubtful strength and LOTS of splatter. Get a cart for it. I drag it everywhere.

The women in my life love the Miller 211. Just like a glue gun for metal. All kinds of yard, wall, horseshoe and kitchen art and utensils. Add a little blacksmithing they can take over your shop. Buyers beware!

 

[yomax4]

I bought a used Lincoln Idealarc SP-150 back in 1990 and it has served me well on all kinds of car, tractor, trailer etc. projects.

It's obviously not a current model, but used ones are still available.
Totally trouble free Professional machine, bought used 30 years ago for hobby use.

It is excellent for welding thin sheet-metal and can do up to 3/8 inch in one pass.


Photo from online, my cables are not a mess like that:

I had an SP200. So smooth it seemed like it was low on power ( high inductance ) Great welder. You could flip open the side door and actually remove the feed system which was the same as an LN 7 feeder. You could go as far as the cables you chose to install. One of the best. I'd like to have your 150 which is as good or better than most posted on this run.

 

[Spike56]

So far, my summary:
Thanks to all, this has been really helpful / educational.

Machine / Equipment:
Still targeting the Hobart 210 MVP. The Miller 211 appears to have dial type settings instead of fixed and *perhaps* therefore, offers more simple setup / controls
However, I am not certain that (for me), I can justify spending that much.

Polarity:
I understand the "very basics" of polarity. On my Thunder Bolt XL stick, I have a large toggle switch to change, although I hardly ever used this, leaving it on DCEP (DC+). I tried AC a couple times on rusty metal..
How this is changed on a MIG machine.... I do not notice a front panel switch. So I suppose this is a simple process.

Still have questions on:
1.) Have never used a MIG, but assume that using flux core wire would be similar to welding with rods (stick)
2.) IF I chose to use shielding gas,
* I assume I would use a standard 75/25 CO2/Argon
* Today, I would have no idea where to purchase a "refillable" bottle. I have an "Airgas company" store locally - maybe there ? I have heard stories of people buying torch bottles that cannot be refilled / or bottles that some suppliers would not refill.

< Philosophical mode on here>
Perhaps I over think things ? I am just trying to understand better before I make any decisions. If my refrigerator goes south, that is something that needs replacement right away - quick investigation - stick to a reputable brand / store - go buy. The welder.... I can take a little more time to decide on. I think the purpose of these forums is to get opinions from people who know a heck of a lot more that I do ! Which, is probably everyone.
< Mode off>

Again, thanks to all who take the time to help here !

J.

 

[Garson]

Still have the Millermatic 175 I bought new about a dozen or so years ago. It's still going strong and I'm amazed at what can be done with it. I use both solid wire with gas and flux core. Remember to observe polarity for the wire being used, and to use a knurled drive roller for the flux core.

If I were shopping today, I'd prefer a dual input voltage machine. There have been a number of times that a small project could have been done with a machine that runs on 120V. I'd probably go a notch higher on the output to get around 200A.

Are you sure that you don't want to hang on to the stick welder? Last year I bought an Everlast Powerarc STi and really like it. Friday I had to do a small project that required making some 1" thick plate from two pieces of 1/2" plate, then butt welding it to a 1" plate. Looking forward to doing a larger job with it later this week.

I'll second that. You will miss your stick welder. Cranking the heat to max will often cut things with a 6011 rod that you cannot reach with acetylene and MIG welding works poorly in a windy location. Also, your stick welder will melt metal using a carbon arc torch attachment.

 

[Metalman5767]

I have the Hobart Handler 210 and it's great! Mine came with the Spool Gun which is great for aluminum work...look to see if you can't get both as a package.

 

[BeezFun]

You didn't describe much of your environment, but I find my tig machine far more useful for almost everything. We have a farm so there's always a fire risk with mig if I'm anywhere near the barn or in a field. In the shop a tig machine is much cleaner, very low fume level compared to mig, so it's better there too. The downside is you have to spend a lot of time on prep, and the welding process itself is much slower, but you said you're retiring so what else do you have to do. The other nice thing with a tig machine is you keep the ability to stick weld if you ever need to do something fast or burn through a lot of rust.

 

[fried1765]

So far, my summary:
Thanks to all, this has been really helpful / educational.

Machine / Equipment:
Still targeting the Hobart 210 MVP. The Miller 211 appears to have dial type settings instead of fixed and *perhaps* therefore, offers more simple setup / controls
However, I am not certain that (for me), I can justify spending that much.

Polarity:
I understand the "very basics" of polarity. On my Thunder Bolt XL stick, I have a large toggle switch to change, although I hardly ever used this, leaving it on DCEP (DC+). I tried AC a couple times on rusty metal..
How this is changed on a MIG machine.... I do not notice a front panel switch. So I suppose this is a simple process.

Still have questions on:
1.) Have never used a MIG, but assume that using flux core wire would be similar to welding with rods (stick)
2.) IF I chose to use shielding gas,
* I assume I would use a standard 75/25 CO2/Argon
* Today, I would have no idea where to purchase a "refillable" bottle. I have an "Airgas company" store locally - maybe there ? I have heard stories of people buying torch bottles that cannot be refilled / or bottles that some suppliers would not refill.

< Philosophical mode on here>
Perhaps I over think things ? I am just trying to understand better before I make any decisions. If my refrigerator goes south, that is something that needs replacement right away - quick investigation - stick to a reputable brand / store - go buy. The welder.... I can take a little more time to decide on. I think the purpose of these forums is to get opinions from people who know a heck of a lot more that I do ! Which, is probably everyone.
< Mode off>

Again, thanks to all who take the time to help here !

J.

The Hobart 190 Handler is 220V only, but 220V is much better for any MIG welder use.
Obviously it is not quite as sophisticated as the Hobart 210, but it is a GREAT MIG welder, and $200 less expensive.
I am very impressed with my Hobart Handler 190,..... and I have zero welding experience!
For your use, I would definitely say...save the $200, buy the Handler 190, and use gas!
You will be happy!

 

[ddavis317]

I am in the market for a MIG (wire feed) machine. Have been looking at (seems like) 100's of models, but having trouble with a selection. My basic requirements are up to 1/4" steel; however, 95% of my projects are geared toward "garden / home" projects using tubing / thin wall metal.
I would like the machine to be able to use both flux core and wire w/gas (future). So, I do not want to go ultra cheap to learn later that for a few extra bucks I could have had much better quality, available options (guns, type wire capable) and "ease of use" (changing spools....ect). Of course, I am NOT a professional either, and won't be welding a lot. Just trying to find the best compromise between CHEAP and EXPENSIVE machines.

My welding experience is very limited. Have a STICK (Miller ThunderBolt) and have used even for smaller / thinner metal project. But, I am going to sell this one.

I currently have a 220v 30A plug. Seems most (?) of the 220v machines are 50A ? Unsure.

Any suggestions are appreciated - especially from anyone owning a "fairly" new machine - one that I could find the same model today.

Thanks

Hello, I was jn the same boat about 10 ago. I didnt weld much but wanted a decent welder. I bought the Hobart 210, and it has prooved to serve my purpose, i actually burnt the rectifier boarf up a couple years ago, but was able to order new one and replaced it, it still works great. If I had the money I would have bought a Miller, but the Hobart is a good welder.

 

[RedNeckGeek]

An old welder once told me buy blue (Miller) for TIG (GTA welding) and red (Lincoln) for MIG (GMA welding). I did and I'm still happy with that advise more than ten years later. I can rig a stinger to the Miller if I ever need to, but in all that time I've only done it once or twice. Most of what I do is steel, and hands down the GMA welder is way better (easier and faster) for that. Mine's a Lincoln Power MIG 180C, and I can weld whatever thickness of steel I want with it. I've even brazed autobody steel with the right wire.

Whatever you end up with, buy as much power as you can afford. You can always turn a welder down, but you can only turn it up so much, and sometimes that's not enough.

If you've never welded before, head on over to the Welding Tips and Tricks website and you'll find an excellent selection of videos showing you exactly how to do it. You'll also find a ton of reviews on welders and equipment.

When it comes time to buy, shop around on the internet (Google is your friend), pay attention to the reviews, and mostly shop for price. I'd steer away from unknown brands because a welder is something you'll have for most of the rest of your life, and you need to be able to purchase parts and service for it. Pick a no-name brand and you have no guarantee they'll be there when you need them.