Newly assembled trailer: one hub warmer

   / Newly assembled trailer: one hub warmer #11  
Well, I slathered the bearing with grease then installed it then pumped in about 40 squirts with a grease gun through the zerk.

What should I have done?

You should have packed the bearing. It is probably ruined. The outer bearing may be ok since you put 40 squirts in but the inner will probably be worse off. You may be able to clean it up and inspect both the bearings and races and if they look new, no scratches / discoloring / or scores, then they can be reused.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWCS-ALwcwg&feature=related

Also you seat the bearing the way you described as you spin the wheel then back off the nut then finger tighten it. Once seated back turn the nut in reverse to about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn to line up the holes for a cotter pin.


My HF carries the bearings and seals for your trailer for $10 each.

This video will tell you all you need to know.

Chris
 
   / Newly assembled trailer: one hub warmer #12  
I'm right handed here is my way[been a diesel mech. for 30 + yr's. load your favorite wheel bearing grease into your left palm grasp bearing with right with large side of bearing hole down push large side of bearing against left palm full of grease untill grease comes out small side of bearing rotate bearing so that new grease has come out all around bearing your bearing is now PACKED with grease. always wash dry & inspect bearing before packing. Apply light coat to race's and spindle you are ready to assemble. Have fun
 
   / Newly assembled trailer: one hub warmer #13  
I'm right handed here is my way[been a diesel mech. for 30 + yr's. load your favorite wheel bearing grease into your left palm grasp bearing with right with large side of bearing hole down push large side of bearing against left palm full of grease untill grease comes out small side of bearing rotate bearing so that new grease has come out all around bearing your bearing is now PACKED with grease. always wash dry & inspect bearing before packing. Apply light coat to race's and spindle you are ready to assemble. Have fun
exact same method except I slap the bearing against my palm big side down. Usually only takes about 5 or 6 slaps per inch or so.
 
   / Newly assembled trailer: one hub warmer
  • Thread Starter
#14  
You should have packed the bearing. It is probably ruined. The outer bearing may be ok since you put 40 squirts in but the inner will probably be worse off. You may be able to clean it up and inspect both the bearings and races and if they look new, no scratches / discoloring / or scores, then they can be reused.

YouTube - Cleaning and Replacing Hubs and Bearings - etrailer.com

Also you seat the bearing the way you described as you spin the wheel then back off the nut then finger tighten it. Once seated back turn the nut in reverse to about 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn to line up the holes for a cotter pin.


My HF carries the bearings and seals for your trailer for $10 each.

This video will tell you all you need to know.

Chris

I watched the video. It was helpful but my little light duty trailer has only one set of bearings per wheel and no seals on the outboard side at least, just a big washer and the castle nut.

The only things I did differently was that I did not put grease inside the hub before putting the grease packed bearing in but I did then pump in grease afterwards. I kinda thought the grease would distribute with rotation. I also tightened the castle nut more than I should have so I'll back those off and do just the finger tightening.

I'll pull it apart to see what the bearings look like. They've only been driven about 10-15 miles total unloaded so I am hopeful they'll be ok. I did find that the second time I drove the trailer about 5-6 miles I could not feel a difference in temperature afterwards and all I'd done in the meantime was add more grease.
 
   / Newly assembled trailer: one hub warmer #15  
exact same method except I slap the bearing against my palm big side down. Usually only takes about 5 or 6 slaps per inch or so.
I do that if I am just doing one. if I am doing 3 or more, I use one of these: Bearing Packer and then spin it around a couple of times to ensure that there arent any air pockets.

Aaron Z
 
   / Newly assembled trailer: one hub warmer #16  
does that work pretty good Aaron? If it does for $6.99 I'm definitely going to purchase.
 
   / Newly assembled trailer: one hub warmer #17  
I watched the video. It was helpful but my little light duty trailer has only one set of bearings per wheel and no seals on the outboard side at least, just a big washer and the castle nut.

The only things I did differently was that I did not put grease inside the hub before putting the grease packed bearing in but I did then pump in grease afterwards. I kinda thought the grease would distribute with rotation. I also tightened the castle nut more than I should have so I'll back those off and do just the finger tightening.

I'll pull it apart to see what the bearings look like. They've only been driven about 10-15 miles total unloaded so I am hopeful they'll be ok. I did find that the second time I drove the trailer about 5-6 miles I could not feel a difference in temperature afterwards and all I'd done in the meantime was add more grease.

Bearings do not have a outside seal, just a inside seal. I have never seen a bearing setup with only 1 bearing and I doubt yours does either. My guess is the hubs came assembled with the inner bearing in place and pre greased and the seal in place. The only thing you had to do was grease the outer bearing, place the washer on, tighten the castle nut, install the cotter pin, then tap the dust cap in place.

If that is the case I think you may be ok just loosening the castle nut since the rear bearing is pre greased. You probably got enough grease in when you gave it the 40 pumps from your grease gun.

You used the term "packed bearing" so I am assuming the bearing came pre packed. If that is the case you are going to be ok and your issue is the castle nut being too tight.

As for you driving X number of miles. That does not matter. With them little 8" or 12" wheels or any wheels for that matter a bearing will fail in 1/2 mile without proper grease. The spin many many times per mile. I have had 1 fail in less than 1 mile on a trailer that had been sitting for some time.

Chris
 
   / Newly assembled trailer: one hub warmer #18  
I do that if I am just doing one. if I am doing 3 or more, I use one of these: Bearing Packer and then spin it around a couple of times to ensure that there arent any air pockets.

Aaron Z


It may work for you Aaron but I take care of about 75 trailers and probably pack 10 to 15 sets per year. I have tried every packer on the market and all they have done for me was make a mess and take my money. Nothing better than a hand and a palm full of grease like shown in the video I posted and all the others described in this thread.

Chris
 
   / Newly assembled trailer: one hub warmer #19  
does that work pretty good Aaron? If it does for $6.99 I'm definitely going to purchase.

I find that I can get the bearing packed faster (and it seems better packed) with that than by hand. Perhaps I just need more practice, but for the few bearings I do (I got it when I redid the wheel bearings in the haywagon and have used it for 2 sets in the year since), it works fine.
One thing to note is that it fills the center of the bearing (where the spindle goes) with grease, but I just stuff that into the center of the hub and am good to go.

Aaron Z
 
   / Newly assembled trailer: one hub warmer #20  
From Timken bearings site:

tt0801.jpg
* Orange area indicates the recommendation for the correct amount of grease to be packed into the bearings prior to installation on grease-lubricated wheel ends.
* Work grease into the bearing underneath the cage towards the large rib.

For best results, ample space is essential in the housing to allow room for excess grease to be thrown from the bearing and for heat dissipation. It is equally important to retain the grease around the bearing. Normally, the housing should be 1/3 to no more than 1/2 full of grease during bearing assembly. Too much grease in the housing may cause excess churning of the grease and high temperatures.

Statistics show that nearly 50 percent of all bearing damage can be attributed to inadequate lubrication. Although a very broad term, inadequate lubrication can be classified into eight basic categories: 1) overfilling, 2) underfilling, 3) incorrect grease, 4) mixing greases, 5) incorrect lubrication systems and intervals, 6) worn-out grease, 7) water contamination, and 8) debris contamination.

Overfilling a bearing with too much grease can cause excess churning of the grease during operation and high temperatures, resulting in overheating and excess grease purging* (leaking). Overheating occurs because the heat generated cannot dissipate correctly, continually building until damage occurs. As the operating temperature of the bearing rises, the oxidation (breakdown) rate of the grease sharply increases doubling every 18コ F.

Underfilling a bearing with grease can also have adverse consequences. As in overfilling, heat can be generated but for different reasons. When the grease amount is low, a grease starvation condition may be created, causing heat generation or excessive metal wear during operation. If a bearing suddenly becomes noisy and/or the temperature increases, excessive wear may be taking place.

Bearing end play should be in the .001"-.005" range for non-drive front axles, drive axles and trailer axles.
 

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