NH "T"urbo "C"harged 24DA

   / NH "T"urbo "C"harged 24DA #21  
Have you checked the bottom of the skirt on the engine block? There may be a hole with a plug for such an installation depending on what else that model of block is used in.
 
   / NH "T"urbo "C"harged 24DA #22  
Please remember that I have never attempted a turbo project. Since oil from engine requires fabing etc. Can you use oil from hydralic pump to lub the turbo? Hydro oil, with a filter to the turbo and return line to the sump.
 
   / NH "T"urbo "C"harged 24DA
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Jerry,

I've looked the block over and over and cannot find anything other than the external line that runs from the pressure side to the valve cover. I'm pretty certain that this will work out fine once Dad gets the fittings made and I can increase the size of the line.

Dave,

Funny you mention the hyd. oil because I was thinking about that today. That would be very easy to do. I was wondering though, the pressures involved? I'll research than some more...thanks!


Today I recieved the fitting that goes on the bottom of the turbo for the return line. It is much larger than the supply line. So I figure that given the size of the return line, there should not be any problems with mounting a fitting below the oil level in the pan. If any there is any back-up in the return line, there would be some "storage" in the line to give gravity a chance.

Here's a pic of the oil return fitting which is 1/2" i.d. This will go straight vertical to the pan, so there should not be any problem with oil returning and backup into the center section of the turbo.
 

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   / NH "T"urbo "C"harged 24DA #24  
For your clean air intake pipe and your boost air pipe, I would just use exhaust pipe(between the silicone hoses) of the right size and cut and weld it as necessary, then wash it out before installation. You could bend a coat hanger/wire/copper tubing to copy the angles and positions that you need and have an exhaust shop bend tubing for you if you want a "cleaner" installation. I am kinda surprized that you haven't worked on the 3 to 1 exhaust manifold, yet. To me, that is going to be the biggest challenge(so many clearance issues). Good Luck to ya. Edit: If you use exhaust pipe, weld a little bead (bump) around the ends of the tubes so the silicone hoses can't blow off without the hose clamps either breaking or they where never tight in the first place. Factory air/boost pipes have this "bumps" preformed into them.
 
   / NH "T"urbo "C"harged 24DA #25  
Mega_Me said:
...The concern with going in under the oil level is if gravity won't feed it well back into the pan, it could back up into the turbo and oil could seep past the seals....

If gravity won't feed it with the outlet below the oil level in the pan, gravity won't feed it with the outlet above the oil level either.

The gravity head draining the oil from the TC will be the difference in vertical height of the inlet above the outlet of the drain tube if the outlet is above the oil level. It will be the difference in height of the inlet above the oil level in the pan if the outlet is below the oil level. That means that you'll have more gravity head to drain the oil from the tube with the outlet below the oil level.

With the drain tube outlet below the oil level, oil won't back up in the drain tube unless the oil pan is pressurized to an absolute pressure greater than that existing at the inlet of the drain tube in the TC. The crankcase breather should prevent that from happening. Oil backing up in the drain tube for any other reason, i.e. the oil temperature in the drain tube is so low that the oil won't flow, or the outlet of the drain tube is plugged for some reason, would restrict the drain regardless of whether the outlet is above or below the level in the oil pan.
 
   / NH "T"urbo "C"harged 24DA #26  
I was on a good turbo website today...Welcome to TurboByGarrett.com and they mention that in a wet sump system like yours the oil return should be above the oil level in the pan.
 
   / NH "T"urbo "C"harged 24DA #27  
have you considered adding an aux oil cooler on the front?

Also remember they make a little thingie-ma-bob that screws inplace of the oil filter to give you take-offs and return. Adding a turbo will add significantly to the temp of the engine oil.

015_510.jpg


(google search called it a sandwich plate) also may be a point of return for the turbo?

0405sc_chill_09_z.jpg
 
   / NH "T"urbo "C"harged 24DA #28  
Mega_Me said:
You'll notice that there is nowhere for a muffler. Unless I can find something small to fit in somewhere, there won't be one! Several poeple I've talked to said that the turbo will muffle the exhaust some. I wear earplugs anyways so whatever. You should hear the turbo whine!

i would expect you could get a standard inline one to fit in your exahust stack that isnt to obtrusive.
 
   / NH "T"urbo "C"harged 24DA
  • Thread Starter
#29  
It was a good idea while it lasted. It seems that the oil return line has thrown a wrench in the whole deal. It will have to go to the oil pan, but in order to get the pan off so I can weld in a bung, the engine will have to be pulled......not going to do that.

I like the idea of the sandwich plate, but I'm afraid of the pressure on the return line??

So if anyone is interested in that small turbo, let me know. I think I'll stick it on ebay.
 
   / NH "T"urbo "C"harged 24DA #30  
I would be interested in that turbo as I am thinking of turbo charging a small diesel kubota motor (d1105). Need to know price, condition and what size Kubota engine it came off of. Is there a way we could handle this privately?
 

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