NH TC25D no start issue. Help....

NH TC25D · Jun 22, 2015

The 25D would not start.

What I have checked:
1. DMM reading indicates Battery is fully charged. Headlights work.
2. No detectable loose wires from battery to ignition switch.
3. Range selector, PTO selector all in neutral. The ignition safety (range selector must be in neutral) switch seems ok.

What happens: All instrument panel lights on when key rotated to the preheat postion. Except the cold starting indicator light (glow plug light). Most of the time when ignition key is rotated to the heat position the light is just faintly visible and then fades to dark. Occasionally the glow plug light glows full. Key is pushed in and rotated to on position results in one "chunk" sound. One additional sound. Coming from the ignition switch. Sort of a buzzing sound. Never remember hearing this noise.

Over the past few years have had a problem with the range selector safety switch. The placement of the switch makes it look to be a pita to replace. So I just use a shim during the start process to activate the switch. Not sure if it is just out of alignment or the white plastic roller has worn.

So guessing it may be that switch

. Or could it be the glow plug relay module? Or the ignition switch? Or something else?

MikefromMI · Jun 29, 2015

Wow, Nothing for 5 days? Really? lol
The answer. Yes. Could be any one of those issues. I got sick and tired of that stupid range switch. I cut the switch side - stripped it and soldered it. I've been using this tractor so long I habitually put it in neutral anyway. Do you know if the starter mod was ever done to the tractor. There is posted problems with the key switch not being able to handle the current.

torchroadster · Jun 30, 2015

I'm watching this closely, my TC29D seems to exhibit the same symptoms from time to time. But if I let it set for a few minutes (long enough to open the hood and go get my DMM) it starts fine.

NH TC25D · Jun 30, 2015

Finally got around to load testing the battery. Insufficent capacity. Voltage under no load was ok at 12.?V.
Replacement Optima yellow top 51 series battery in route. Also ordered a load tester. Bit of a fool on multiple accounts. Avid R/C hobbiest. Should have known better regarding capacity and IR. Monitor the lipos and NiMh on the toys, but not the tractor battery??? Local repair person noted running a under/low capacity battery works the alternator too hard/often. Hope I didn't damage or significantly shorten the life of the alternator. Picked up a relay at the shop ($12) just in case. Hopefully will not need a timer switch (~$80). Also hope it's nothing more than the timer in a worst case situation.

torchroadster · Jul 5, 2015

I was able to figure out my problem this weekend. The tractor acted up again, but this time in the garage. I traced my problem to a loose cable clamp at the positive battery connection, not the clamp to the battery post but the clamp on the battery cable side of the post. I cleaned up the wire and the clamp, and tightened everything down and I'm pretty sure I've got it solved.