I did both the energized and non-energized tests. They passed both. I could also hear the relay clicking when energized.
NH TC30 Stalls When removing Parking Brake or taking it out of Neutral
- Thread starter js4185
- Start date
- Views: 5217
Great suggestion. A weak battery did cause a few false readings when I began troubleshooting. I did a load test and the battery was good. So, I trickle charged it overnight and redid all my testing with a full battery.
I am back up and running.
It turned out that the new $20 Seat Safety Switch Timer that I bought on Amazon did not work correctly. I mistakenly moved past this timer as my problem since I replaced it with new. I purchased the $130 OEM Timer and installed it and my TC30 started working great again. I tried to save some money and it ended up costing me an extra month's worth of troublshooting and headache.
To have complete notes, I did also replace the parking brake switch.
Thanks all for taking the time to help me out and all the suggestions as pointed me to the problem.
It turned out that the new $20 Seat Safety Switch Timer that I bought on Amazon did not work correctly. I mistakenly moved past this timer as my problem since I replaced it with new. I purchased the $130 OEM Timer and installed it and my TC30 started working great again. I tried to save some money and it ended up costing me an extra month's worth of troublshooting and headache.
To have complete notes, I did also replace the parking brake switch.
Thanks all for taking the time to help me out and all the suggestions as pointed me to the problem.
Here are my test results in case someone else has similar issue.
Issue: TC30 stalled as soon as I took it out of N (move to L or H) or it will die if I take off the parking brake.
Troubleshooting suggestions:
1. Buy a New Holland TC30 Service Repair Manual since it has all of the testing steps for every item on the tractor. I did the 592 page $30 (New Holland TC30 Tractors Service Repair Manual – PDF Download)
2. Bad or low battery - Load tested and fully charged the battery
3. Defective Seat Safety Switch Timer - This was defective (replaced with $130 SBA3858703). I purchased a non-OEM timer trying to save $100+. It was a mistake.
4. One or more defective safety switches: Parking brake safety switch, seat safety switch, mid PTO safety switch, rear PTO safety switch, transmission range safety switch - I jumpered out the seat switch (reconnected it once I was up and running) and replaced parking brake safety switch $20 SBA385201260
5. One or more defective Relays: Three under the seat, One by engine - I purchased a new one, but returned since it wasn't needed. $50 SBA385230300
6. Seat Diode (Kill Relay) - Tested OK. Can be replaced with $50 new P/N SBA385613980, old P/N SBA385620380
7. Defective key switch - I didn't believe this was an issue since it started and ran great.
8. Malfunctioning fuel shutoff solenoid - I don't believe it is this since it runs.
9. Blown 5-amp fuse - Tested OK
10. Open wiring in safe operation circuit - This is above my paygrade and would require a technician.
Issue: TC30 stalled as soon as I took it out of N (move to L or H) or it will die if I take off the parking brake.
Troubleshooting suggestions:
1. Buy a New Holland TC30 Service Repair Manual since it has all of the testing steps for every item on the tractor. I did the 592 page $30 (New Holland TC30 Tractors Service Repair Manual – PDF Download)
2. Bad or low battery - Load tested and fully charged the battery
3. Defective Seat Safety Switch Timer - This was defective (replaced with $130 SBA3858703). I purchased a non-OEM timer trying to save $100+. It was a mistake.
4. One or more defective safety switches: Parking brake safety switch, seat safety switch, mid PTO safety switch, rear PTO safety switch, transmission range safety switch - I jumpered out the seat switch (reconnected it once I was up and running) and replaced parking brake safety switch $20 SBA385201260
5. One or more defective Relays: Three under the seat, One by engine - I purchased a new one, but returned since it wasn't needed. $50 SBA385230300
6. Seat Diode (Kill Relay) - Tested OK. Can be replaced with $50 new P/N SBA385613980, old P/N SBA385620380
7. Defective key switch - I didn't believe this was an issue since it started and ran great.
8. Malfunctioning fuel shutoff solenoid - I don't believe it is this since it runs.
9. Blown 5-amp fuse - Tested OK
10. Open wiring in safe operation circuit - This is above my paygrade and would require a technician.
Last edited:
bearthebruce
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2018
- Messages
- 527
- Location
- Property is in Floyd County VA
- Tractor
- '05 Massey Ferguson 1533; '22 LS MT125, '23 Kubota SVL65-2
Everyday, working with folks trying to fix their VAG cars by avoiding the high cost of dealer parts, they buy the aftermarket parts at Amazon or eBay - or you name the place. Unfortunately, while they look the same, they are not the same.
We come to refer to them as Chinese Replacement Auto Parts.. or our more common acroynm, CRAP.
I know how it hurts to pay the dealer price and believe me there is no guarantee those will be right always, but in the main, the dealer parts are way better than the low cost CRAP.
Glad your issue has been found and corrected.
I tell myself to go with OEM, but somehow keep getting drawn into that Siren Song of low price. LOL on Chinese Replacement Auto Parts.. or our more common acronym, CRAP.
bearthebruce
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2018
- Messages
- 527
- Location
- Property is in Floyd County VA
- Tractor
- '05 Massey Ferguson 1533; '22 LS MT125, '23 Kubota SVL65-2
I get it... its hard. When the price is 1/3 or 1/4 how can we not look at these parts and tools and such... And then we buy them... Next thing ya know, we have more problems than at the start.
On VAG cars, the CRAP just leads to more fault codes - no performance improvement and so on.
For our 1533, we take a deep breath, then buy from AGCO. It hurts.. but we do it.
So far, we have managed to fix Missy without going to the dealer... Can't say what will happen as she ages.. she is still a babe with just under 600 hours even though she was built in 2005. She sat for near 10 years in the garage. We have put her to use at about 75-100 hours a year in the last 6-7 years. I can't remember what year we put her to work.
Good luck!
On VAG cars, the CRAP just leads to more fault codes - no performance improvement and so on.
For our 1533, we take a deep breath, then buy from AGCO. It hurts.. but we do it.
So far, we have managed to fix Missy without going to the dealer... Can't say what will happen as she ages.. she is still a babe with just under 600 hours even though she was built in 2005. She sat for near 10 years in the garage. We have put her to use at about 75-100 hours a year in the last 6-7 years. I can't remember what year we put her to work.
Good luck!
