NH TC40DA just bought ?????

[jinman]

The TC40DAs have a thermostat. Your temp will run in the upper part of the green. I live in East Texas. It gets hot in the summer and I mow all day with it at the same spot.

There is not a radiator screen. Keep the radiator fins cleaned out for max air flow. I wash mine out regularly. I put a hose bid and short hose near the shop to wash the tractor after using it.

Randy you are absolutely correct that there is no screen. Actually the hood has a fine mesh opening and this is also below the battery. There is foam and rubber that is supposed to seal the hood so that all air has to come through those mesh screens and remove most large material. It works good on my tractor, but the radiator always has dirt in it when I wash it out. I take a nozzle and put it in beside the fan blades and direct water out toward the edges of cowling. Looking in front of the radiator, the water always comes out looking muddy. By cleaning from time-to-time, I've never had anything approaching an overheating situation. Engine temperature on our tractors is very stable as long as the thermostat doesn't stick open. If that occurs, the engine will run cold and the gage will never get up to the green area.

 

[djradz]

The TC40DAs have a thermostat. Your temp will run in the upper part of the green. I live in East Texas. It gets hot in the summer and I mow all day with it at the same spot.

There is not a radiator screen. Keep the radiator fins cleaned out for max air flow. I wash mine out regularly. I put a hose bid and short hose near the shop to wash the tractor after using it.

I added a fine screen to the front of mine. I cut it large enough so it tucks in under the lips of the radiator and is held there on its own just by this. In addition, being behind the oil cooler, there's some extra protection to keep it from falling out. Only problem is it loads up quickly if I'm mowing/hogging really tall grass that has gone to seed. Always figured though that such is better than sucking in all that stuff and either getting it stuck in the radiator or sprayed all over the engine.

I think my tractor runs more in the middle of the green than the upper part. Probably just the minor differences in the gage, sensor and tractor characteristics and nothing to be concerned about, as long as the radiator is clean.

 

[ND teacher]

Thanks for the replies, Repowell what kind of oil is in the front diff?

I had a NH mechanic look at the oil leak i had it is from where the tractor splits apart. The mechanic figured it never sealed from the factory. It hasn't dripped in the garage yet but it is full of dirt around the area. He is going to give me an estimate. He said its alright to run it.

I guess i will have to see what he wants to fix it and how much the dealer will cover?

Is this a common problem for them to leak where the tractor splits? It only has 440hours

 

[jinman]

Thanks for the replies, Repowell what kind of oil is in the front diff?

ND Teacher, are you actually reading the responses in this thread? I don't mean to give you a hard time, but I answered this question in post #3 of this thread and djradz also posted the answer in one of his responses. The answer is that NH Multi-G 134D is used in the hydraulics, differential, front axle, and power steering. There is NO PLACE that 80W90 is used on this tractor. You only need engine oil, Multi-G 134D, and grease for lubricants. You might want a can of WD-40 and some white lithium grease for spot lubes, but those should be your personal choice.

 

[ND teacher]

Yeah i am reading them, I spaced it out it was left out of the last oil post, so with out thinking i quick responded with another question. I Just need to go to NH and buy some oil so i can see the container and know which goes where. i am reading these on my breaks from time to time. I am pretty wrapped up with this oil leak. I am planning on a trip to Bismarck on sat. to purchase oils and filters etc, but i need to purchase an owners manual and the mechanic said he would look around and see if he could find one, I found three filters on the tractor, but if he has to split it to reseal it i might have to replace the oil anyways.
THis website is giving me so much info its almost too much to digest. Friday night i plan on rereading all these posts and make a shopping list from there.

 

[jinman]

THis website is giving me so much info its almost too much to digest. Friday night i plan on rereading all these posts and make a shopping list from there.

Yep, your head must be swirling with questions. I just couldn't resist giving you a bit of kidding about the differential oil question.

BTW: If you buy grease at anywhere but your NH dealer, make sure it meets NGLI-2. There are lots of NGLI-1 greases at farm stores and auto stores for not much money. The NGLI-2 is a bit more expensive. Here's a link to NGLI grades.

 

[ND teacher]

Problems with my seat?

Not sure what the handles do correct me if im wrong

Center grey one with a handle that flips out(lock) Is if for the weight adjustment?

Turn knob below that black in color 3pt speed(hydrualic pressure)?

Grey handle low on the right hand side(to slide seat forward)

Grey handle directly on the left side of the seat(rectangle and grey)???

All handles are freed up and moveable but i cant get the seat to adjust forward or backwards. I sprayed the mechanical parts with JB-80 penetration oil but not freed up yet. Tried to work it back and forth but it will probably have to sit overnight and resprayed in the morning.

 

[LarryD]

My seat gets a little hard to slide sometimes. I find it easier to lube it and work it free by standing next to the tractor and work it back and forth a few times. Less weight on the rails that way.

I think the seat handle on the left side allows the seat to pivot 10º and 20º both left and right. That's for those times when you're looking back a lot.

 

[jinman]

Lube chart.

 

[ND teacher]

I was at the NH dealer and the chart they printed out recommended 10w30 i was thinking 15w40 Is there an oil weight that the op manual recommends? I bought case oil cause they didnt have 10w30 in NH oil on hand. I still havent changed the oil i would like to put in what is recommended but your chart has a few different weights.
I also bought a block heater that i plan on installing soon.
Owners manual should arrive in my mailbox this week.

 

[jinman]

I was at the NH dealer and the chart they printed out recommended 10w30 i was thinking 15w40 Is there an oil weight that the op manual recommends?

One more time. . . read my last post. The chart lists 15W40 and the NH part number for quarts and 2.5 gal containers.

 

[ND teacher]

The chart is confusing, Your chart shows the first engine oil as 10w30 2.5 gallons. It also lists 15w40, SAE 30 and 5w30

I wonder why the dealer printed out a capacity sheet and it said 10w30

 

[WM75Guy]

This chart shows which one to use based on conditions.

 

[ND teacher]

It looks to me according to the chart the 10w30 would be the best all around oil?

Repowell what do you use in yours?

 

[WM75Guy]

15w40, same as my pickups. It does not get that cold in East Texas but it does get hot.

 

[djradz]

ND, try whatever you think is best based on the chart, but I think that unless you use full synthetic 10w-30, you will find that 10w-30 is still a little heavy for the winter if your tractor sits in an unheated space. Based on my own experience of almost 30 years of having 3 similar tractors stored both in and outside of heated spaces, I found that it took 15 seconds or more just for the oil light to go out if the barn wasn't heated. This essentially means no new oil was getting up to the upper portion of the engine during that time. Oil on the NHs must travel up a very small tube on the outside of the engine (right side, about midway back) to get to the upper portions and the pressure sender. Maybe not a big deal, but not what I wanted to see. When I switched to 5w-40, the problem went away. Easy cranking and the light went out in a second or two. IMHO, I definetely would not use 15w-anything in the winter in ND in a TC-series, heater storage or not.

 

[WM75Guy]

I would agree 15w-40 is not for use up north, I do believe it gets cold up there. If it gets below 32 degrees I am not on my open station tractors anyways. For those that wonder, yes, I do tie kerosene rags around my ankles to keep the ants off my candy a--.

 

[ND teacher]

When i was greasing the tractor i noticed two things?

On the passenger side of the toe end rod (right side) there is no grease zerk on it(tie rod end) and i cannot find any evidence of one breaking off.

The toe end rod is curved, (bent, bowed, not sure if its suppose to be) and it rubs underneath on the tractor in the center of the axle(area), not sure of the part name.

 

[jinman]

On my TC45D tractor (built in 2000), it has two zerks on the right side. One is on the tierod end and the other is on the power steering ram end. Both have zerks NOT on top, but rather on the side pointing toward the back of the tractor.

 

[ND teacher]

So on the left side of the tie rod there is no grease zerk?

Is the tie rod bent and does it rub under your tractor?