No oil pressure in 224 (under 5 hrs.)

jinmaman · Feb 15, 2006

I thought about the route of a new engine, but this engine is not EPA approved and will not pass. Although it is a lot of work for me, it may be easier to get the parts in and rebuild it than deal with EPA issues.
Does anyone know how customs handles warranty parts. Will there be duties on them.

JohnS · Feb 15, 2006

Two thoughts. You might be able to convice the chinese to send you an EPA engine because of the hassles and time you went through. Alternatly, check the EPA form to see if there is a special exemption for a non-compliant engine that is to repair / fix a tractor that was imported prior requiring an EPA engine.

The engine parts you will be looking for will not be carried by all the Jinma dealers. You will want to call and talk with one large enough that they have done an engine rebuild on one, such that they know all the little gotcha parts, that you won't know until you do it. Thats not when you want to be waiting on parts. Start with Tommy and Chip.

bluechip · Feb 15, 2006

The Y380 is not epa approved (except one with the Homier brand on it) but I believe there is a replacement engine exemption on the new EPA form, Or you could just have your chinese contact pull a cylinder head off and ship it as a short block and cylinder head and not as a complete engine, use the valve cover off your current engine. Verify all of this independently as I may be all wrong.

This is a real shame. there was a guy on the west coast selling some Y380s on ebay a while back, seems they were going in the $ 1200-1500 area best I can recall. I have a Y385 in stock, but I'm not sure off hand if you can update a 224 to a 254 jsut by changine the engine, front frame mounting points may be different.

JINMA224XR · Feb 16, 2006

I thought about the route of a new engine, but this engine is not EPA approved and will not pass. Although it is a lot of work for me, it may be easier to get the parts in and rebuild it than deal with EPA issues.


Hey JinmaMan,

I also want to express my sorrows about this as well. But things like this do happen. So the thing is, What is the best route to take now to get your tractor running at it's best.

You could go the way of the rebuilding and hope that it will be successful, but knowing that it may not and have to go back into the engine more than once to correct the rebuild.

My vote goes for a Brand New Engine, because that is what you were shooting for from the beginning, A Brand New Tractor, Right.

I would talk with your Selling agent and tell him what has happened from the get go and see what they are willing to do for you in the way of a brand new engine or a brand new tractor. They might be willing to just swap your engine for a new engine, or maybe even your tractor for a new tractor. I would test the waters and at least see what they are willing to do.

You just might be pleasantly surprised, or maybe not, but nothing venture, nothing gained.

If that doesn't produce a workable solution, then I would go about pricing a new engine, and also consider the y385, that Chip was talking about. I mean you would for sure have 22hp for your 224 with a Y385 engine!!!!!

I don't know how far you are from Jim, in Pennsylvania, but I bet that he could put a Y385 in your 224. I mean you would have pulling power then!!! 5 more HP and the extra torque to go along with it.

Affordable · Feb 16, 2006

Dealing with china on one issue is tough not to mention a 2-3 month wait,shipping charges,customs,ect.being a dealer we have a hard time getting warranty replacement parts and we order all the time, I have several complete engines in stock,including the Y380, I also have 1-thats in a tractor that we took apart for spare parts. The parts you are talking about buying would be expensive one at a time, because you have to purchase them seperatly Example Piston head, connecting rod, wrist pin,circlips,rod bearing,ect.,ect.I think Your best bet is a replacement engine. If you want some pricing on one web page ,PM me or give me a call

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales

Propertymaint · Feb 16, 2006

Hi, not to jump in here but I kind of follow engine issues out of curiosity. In your original post it said you were not too mechanically inclined - but it sounds like you did doing a good job diagnosing the problem and getting the oil pump removed. In lieu of rebuilding/replacing the engine ( I know operating an engine without oil pressure is devastating to bearings etc) why not take a chance on flushing the engine and installing a new pump. If it didn't run too long without oil pressure you may 'still get a few years out of it. Who knows, in a couple years you may upgrade to a larger tractor. Without seeing the internals first hand it may be worth a shot?
Just a suggestion.

California · Feb 16, 2006

( When I came out after the 10min warmup the pressure guage read zero and the idiot light was on. ... )

( . When the washer jammed, the impeller locked the pump shaft and the pump housing torqued and cracked at the top, twisted the internal shaft and broke the pump gear. The cam continued to spin on the gear resulting in metal particles being distributed through the engine. )

I wouldn't assume the pump failure caused major damage. If the pump jammed and broke it didn't have a chance to pump shavings throughout the engine. In that scenario, idling without oil pressure was the only problem and may not have caused any damage at all.

Considering the cost and difficulty of installing a whole new engine, I would start by flushing the metal shavings out and checking the rod bearings. If no significant damage is found, replace the oil pump and put the tractor back in service.

We read that the first oil change flushes a lot of manufacturing residue out of these tractors. With luck yours hasn't experienced anything worse. An oil pump is a lot cheaper than a whole engine.

JINMA224XR · Feb 16, 2006

You got it exactly,

Started it up in the morning to warm it up so I could put the loaderon. It started fine even though I live farther north and is colder but it had oil pressure immediate with a 25 degree outside temp. I changed all the fluids a few days back and the engine got 15W40 oil.

When I came out after the 10min warmup the pressure guage read zero and the idiot light was on. I shut the tractor off and checked the oil which was right on. I wouldn't assume the pump failure caused major damage. If the pump jammed and broke it didn't have a chance to pump shavings throughout the engine. In that scenario, idling without oil pressure was the only problem and may not have caused any damage at all.

Considering the cost and difficulty of installing a whole new engine, I would start by flushing the metal shavings out and checking the rod bearings. If no significant damage is found, replace the oil pump and put the tractor back in service.

We read that the first oil change flushes a lot of manufacturing residue out of these tractors. With luck yours hasn't experienced anything worse. An oil pump is a lot cheaper than a whole engine.


California & JinmaMan,

I think California has something.

I mean the engine enitially had oil pressure when you first cranked the engine up. 10 minutes later you noticed that the engine didn't have oil pressure. So that's telling me that it was not even a full 10 minutes without oil pressure. You said that the engine was not makeing any knocking or unusual noises, so there may be no significant damage at all.

Consider California's suggestion and see how the engine does with a new oil pump.

I mean considering that the diesel fuel itself has a little bit of lubricating properties and if the engine didn't get very hot, then, you may be good to go, with a good engine cleaning, and new oil pump.

Wouldn't it be wonderful, if this is the case!!!!

Have a nice day,
Joe /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

jinmaman · Feb 17, 2006

I am leaning to this also. It would be a big job to change every thing out and we are getting frustrated with the tractor. Therefore, I think we will just change the oil pump and hope for the best.

Now I need to get the oil pump. I will be sending an email to our contact in China about getting the parts. Hope it will not take to long to get them. If needed I will fly them in. I will try this route first as there are some parts for the other tractors that are also needed. The other parts we had problems with were glow plugs, injectors, tack sensor and a missing fan belt shroud.

Does anyone have a drawing of the actual engine and sump assembly that is used on the 224. As I cannot find one anywhere and would like to get the part number for the gasket used on the oil sump cover.