I hooked my battery cables up backwards(don't ask) and now I have no power. I've replaced both battery cables and the starter solenoid and still have nothing. I get 12 volts to the solenoid, but when I push in the key I get no dash lights and the electric fuel pump doesn't run. I've obviously fried something. HELP
no power
- Thread starter Paw Paw G
- Start date
jaxs
Elite Member
I doubt anything other than fuse(s) were fried,have you checked them all? Do you own a multi meter? Do you understand how the ohm and volt functions work? Do you understand the terms"voltage drop" and "open circuit"? It's no crime if you don't and we can help either way.
I do have a multi-meter. And I pretty much understand voltage drops and open circuits. The meter I have is a Fluke digital meter so it's pretty easy to use. My tractor is an 86 so I was going to replace all the fuses until I saw they were different than any I had ever seen. I have since found the fuses but haven't been back to the ranch to test them. I've read so many horror stories that I assumed the worst. Thanks for any help you can offer.
jaxs
Elite Member
The Fluke is indeed a nice meter. Make sure battery has 12.1(50%) to 12.6 volts(100% charge) when testing post to post. Remember that number,more than .1 less while testing indicate's possible problem. Check voltage cable to cable and + post to engine block(assuming - ground,vs vs if + ground). No need to replace fuses at random. Starting with largest amp fuses,remove fuses one at a time and test for 0 resistance through fuse. No ohm reading or resistance =bad fuse. Test for 12v out of ignition switch going to fuse block. While fuses are out and key on,test from fuse socket to ground for 12v. If no 12v in sockets, look for a fusiable link in wire supplying fuse block. (After fuse,ignition switch would be the most likely component to fail but testing is cheaper than replacing) Hopfully you find the problem with one of these tests but if not,post back and someone will help with looking further.
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