It's going to take some more time because apparantly I can't figure out how to get my timing right. Cyl #1 top center on compression stroke, points open, align cap with rotor. No dice. I'm sure it's "user error" though. At least now I have my head lights back and my rear work light, I wired that stuff up so I could say I accomplish something...Ha.
No Spark to plugs...please read and help
- Thread starter nj82tj
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EE_Bota
Veteran Member
Others can confirm, but I think the points should just have barely opened. Static timing is a bit trickier than dynamic, but you can use a timing light and get it right if it has timing marks on the flywheel or the crank pulley.
There is a little dance that gets done on some engines. When the distributor is being pushed in, ofter it rotates due to helical gears. So goal one is to get it such that you get the right gear tooth into the right gear notch such that the rotor button will align with the cap post for the cylinder when the points are open slightly; this is the coarse adjustment. Once done, twisting the distributor so that the points just start to open at cylinder TDC is the intermediate adjustment, and should get the tractor running. The final fine adjustment can be made with a timing light on some (probably most) vehicles...so long as there are timing marks to shine the light on.
Frequently I then do a final check to see where the rotor button lined up with the post for that cylinder, remembering the advance function will make it worse if the rotor is a bit too far past the post.* If that is the problem, I then take great pains to remove the distributor slowly while applying slight back rotation to the rotor cap so I can tell the instant the gears disengage...so I can turn the cap slightly in the direction I need it to go while applying slight down pressure on the distributor....I need to feel it drop into the very next ( or previous) tooth.
I have had some head scratchers where the coarse done right and the fine done right starts to worry me about rotor to post alignment. This is more likely to be a challenge when the distributor lock down bolt goes through a slot on the distributor.
* <= Post
| <=curved rotor button jump point. I try for this:
|
I try for this for static and low speed running:
* | If the rotor turns clockwise.
* |
That way, highest advance may look like this:
* |
* |
I am not a great ASCII artist, and it it looks like insanity on your end, just ignore it.
There is a little dance that gets done on some engines. When the distributor is being pushed in, ofter it rotates due to helical gears. So goal one is to get it such that you get the right gear tooth into the right gear notch such that the rotor button will align with the cap post for the cylinder when the points are open slightly; this is the coarse adjustment. Once done, twisting the distributor so that the points just start to open at cylinder TDC is the intermediate adjustment, and should get the tractor running. The final fine adjustment can be made with a timing light on some (probably most) vehicles...so long as there are timing marks to shine the light on.
Frequently I then do a final check to see where the rotor button lined up with the post for that cylinder, remembering the advance function will make it worse if the rotor is a bit too far past the post.* If that is the problem, I then take great pains to remove the distributor slowly while applying slight back rotation to the rotor cap so I can tell the instant the gears disengage...so I can turn the cap slightly in the direction I need it to go while applying slight down pressure on the distributor....I need to feel it drop into the very next ( or previous) tooth.
I have had some head scratchers where the coarse done right and the fine done right starts to worry me about rotor to post alignment. This is more likely to be a challenge when the distributor lock down bolt goes through a slot on the distributor.
* <= Post
| <=curved rotor button jump point. I try for this:
|
I try for this for static and low speed running:
* | If the rotor turns clockwise.
* |
That way, highest advance may look like this:
* |
* |
I am not a great ASCII artist, and it it looks like insanity on your end, just ignore it.
Jerry/MT
Elite Member
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Here's how I statiically time.
Rotate the engine til you are on the compression stroke and then set the engine on the timing mark. Loosen the distributor so it can just move and make sure the rotor is pointing near the #1 plug wire contact in the distributor cap. Take the # 1 plug wire and put a paper clip or a bent wire in the boot so that it touches the metal clip. Turn on the key and hold the plug wire near a good ground. Rotate the distributor back and forth until you hear the spark snap. At that point you will be statically timed. You may have to try it a few times but when you feel you have it right, tighten down the distrbutor and start the engine. Check with a timing light and readjust if necessary. Also check the advance function with the timing light by reving the engine and noting the spark advance.
Rotate the engine til you are on the compression stroke and then set the engine on the timing mark. Loosen the distributor so it can just move and make sure the rotor is pointing near the #1 plug wire contact in the distributor cap. Take the # 1 plug wire and put a paper clip or a bent wire in the boot so that it touches the metal clip. Turn on the key and hold the plug wire near a good ground. Rotate the distributor back and forth until you hear the spark snap. At that point you will be statically timed. You may have to try it a few times but when you feel you have it right, tighten down the distrbutor and start the engine. Check with a timing light and readjust if necessary. Also check the advance function with the timing light by reving the engine and noting the spark advance.
Soundguy
Old Timer
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jerry is bang on. by rotating the dizzy at the moment of breaker open / close you can get it dialed right in.
Ford851
Bronze Member
Ditto from me.
Thought I should update...
I believe the timing is fixed. I had to rotate the gears in the bottom of the distributor hole as they were off by a few teeth. After that I was able to get it running for a few (30ish) seconds and it died again. I think after so many draining attempts I may have killed the coil. I'm going to get a new one tomorrow. I'm going to take the battery back also and have it load tested. My cousin suggested I do that since I drained and charged it about 6 timed now. So at the very least I heard it run tonight and that is good. I will update again tomorrow, with any luck for the final time. Thanks again to everyone. I really appreciate the help!
I believe the timing is fixed. I had to rotate the gears in the bottom of the distributor hole as they were off by a few teeth. After that I was able to get it running for a few (30ish) seconds and it died again. I think after so many draining attempts I may have killed the coil. I'm going to get a new one tomorrow. I'm going to take the battery back also and have it load tested. My cousin suggested I do that since I drained and charged it about 6 timed now. So at the very least I heard it run tonight and that is good. I will update again tomorrow, with any luck for the final time. Thanks again to everyone. I really appreciate the help!
Ford851
Bronze Member
Save your money. Test then buy. Did you check to make sure the gas shut off is functioning. Do you have gas in the tank after setting for so long?
Was the coil hot, scalding hot. The usual failure mode for coils is due to heat. Are you getting spark at the output of the coil to ground? Charge the battery one more time and test the coil Please post back.
Ford851
Was the coil hot, scalding hot. The usual failure mode for coils is due to heat. Are you getting spark at the output of the coil to ground? Charge the battery one more time and test the coil Please post back.
Ford851
Soundguy
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i agree. bat life may be reduced from drainings.. but if it charges up and load tests.. it's not the stall issue.
ditto on coil. is it making spark when she stalls out?
ditto on coil. is it making spark when she stalls out?
ruffdog
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If you were close, I'd help you out for some brats, beer, and sweet corn. Your too far away for some grub though. I can't believe you can't get a old school points guy to help you in your area. I wish you luck...
