No Spark to plugs...please read and help
- Thread starter nj82tj
- Start date
- Views: 66512
Dr Dave
Platinum Member
Dont give up! If it ran before, it should run again.
Beer, brats and corn :thumbsup: wish I was closer.
Check the distributor, if in dought, pull it and recheck the gear,maybe it sheared the pin?
If you have the original coil, reinstall and try it first.
Beer, brats and corn :thumbsup: wish I was closer.
Check the distributor, if in dought, pull it and recheck the gear,maybe it sheared the pin?
If you have the original coil, reinstall and try it first.
Last edited:
I don't really want to mess with the distributor any more. I had a service tech come to the house and set the timing. I can only assume hedid it correctly. He couldn't get it running either. He did manage to burn up my starter motor though...but it was only a matter of time for that anyway.
Mark Page
Platinum Member
Gotta' agree with the old timer suggestion. I've got a guy who's older than dirt who will come on a moments notice fix the problem and charge me $50.00. I usually get an education in the process.
Ford851
Bronze Member
I hate to hear that your giving up when your so close. Don't take offense at this but do you realize that the piston is in the up position twice? once for the exhaust stroke (exhaust valve open to expel hot gases) then on the down stroke the intake valve opens to bring in gas and air mixture) Once for the compression stroke where both valves are closed and the piston compresses the gas mixture and the plug fires when the piston is at TDC or "top dead center" Do you know how to tell when you are in each state? Sometimes we tend to overlook the simple things.
You mentioned that your tractor ran for a while and then stopped again. Are sure that the gas shut off valve in not in the off position but is leaking just enough gas to get you started but then runs dry? In cars we are not used to turning the gas off and on like that, but tractor guys do. One way to figure this out is to turn the knurled knob at the bottom of the sight glass and remove the bowl. Empty it. Replace it. And if it is off and leaking it will fill up drop by drop until full. If the valve is open when you remove the bowl it will flow like a cow urinating on a flat rock. Have someone flip the valve the other way to off and replace the bowl.
Don't give up. We're all wanting you to succeed!!! And you really don't need another yard ornament...
Remember Thomas Edison tried 664 times before he found the correct material for the filament of the light bulb. Where would be if he had stopped short?
Best of luck,
Ford851:thumbsup:
You mentioned that your tractor ran for a while and then stopped again. Are sure that the gas shut off valve in not in the off position but is leaking just enough gas to get you started but then runs dry? In cars we are not used to turning the gas off and on like that, but tractor guys do. One way to figure this out is to turn the knurled knob at the bottom of the sight glass and remove the bowl. Empty it. Replace it. And if it is off and leaking it will fill up drop by drop until full. If the valve is open when you remove the bowl it will flow like a cow urinating on a flat rock. Have someone flip the valve the other way to off and replace the bowl.
Don't give up. We're all wanting you to succeed!!! And you really don't need another yard ornament...
Remember Thomas Edison tried 664 times before he found the correct material for the filament of the light bulb. Where would be if he had stopped short?
Best of luck,
Ford851:thumbsup:
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
hit it again.
if you can get spark, then try starting her on starter fluid.
if not getting spark.. hot wire a coil.. ie.. power to coil to dizzy. then make sure dizzy spins with engine.. and points open, and are not shorted.
not much more to a kettering ignition than that.
if you can get spark, then try starting her on starter fluid.
if not getting spark.. hot wire a coil.. ie.. power to coil to dizzy. then make sure dizzy spins with engine.. and points open, and are not shorted.
not much more to a kettering ignition than that.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
start from scratch.. you are missing something.
there hasn't been anything new under the sun on a basic breaker points system accomplished since that tractor was new.
there hasn't been anything new under the sun on a basic breaker points system accomplished since that tractor was new.
bigdeano
Platinum Member
If it ran good for thirty seconds you probably have the ignition fixed. I would take the gas line off the carb and see if you have a good flow of gas. Old tractors get rust and crud in the tank that stops them. I just fixed the tank on my 1941 MM for that reason.