nOOb to chaining down - is this sufficient?

[orangetree]

A drawbar with a clevis and running a chain thru it and angled back will allow side to side movement. In times where you use the drawbar with, you would be better to use two separate chains and maybe pull them more to the side. This will not stop the forward motion created by slamming on the brakes, so beware of that by adding something pulling back towards the rear of the trailer.
David from jax

I'm with you there - never considered using one chain with an un-anchored / 'floating' clevis ... I'm using a chain & binder at each of the four corners

 

[orangetree]

There are web sites that show proper rigging procedure. Diagrams and everything. It would be a good idea to Google how to rig loads. I learned how to rig machine tools from a book years ago and that stuff is online now. I think the OP should Google rigging.
Eric

I have a technical background, and understand statics and dynamics. I don't believe that's the issue here. And for what it's worth, i did google (well, DuckDuckGo for me). What i find, unsurprisingly, is lots about statics, and also lots about what various orientations of parts (hooks, etc) implies about the way the load (on the part) is distributed in a mechanics-of-materials sense.

My case (by ALL means - correct me if i'm wrong) has:

• generally correct use of the implements (chains, hooks, etc) themselves
• very high design factor for all the equipment in general, versus the need; also i'm using 4 points for the main unit versus the DOT required two.

What i found myself limited by was:

1. an actual, specific piece of equipment to transport that was (inexplicably!, but clearly very commonly) not designed with dedicated transport features
2. a front axle that cannot be chained, due to steering linkage
3. a rear axle that can't be chained as a practical matter because i'd have to disassemble the 3point links, to get an unobstructed chain path
4. a quality trailer (10k gvw C&B, dedicated corner tie downs, etc) but no obvious 'best' way to mate the two

Especially as I have to drive an hour on a pretty worst-case highway, and I do have a pretty firm grasp of the mechanical engineering of any one specific sub-component here, I see the limitations of the system i have in front of me, and am asking for specific advice.

Thanks.

 

[sandman2234]

Mating the two can be an issue, but I have found that welding a piece of pipe vertically against a crossmember, then drilling up through the floor (to get the right spot), then dropping short piece of chain with a flat washer on top of the last link thru the pipe. The flat washer stops the chain from falling thru. Take a bolt and weld it in the last link, (or a bolt with spacers to keep it centered) which will keep the chain from being pulled up thru the pipe. You now have a tie-down spot exactly where you need it! You never use the very last link where the washer is at, and you need to make sure that the piece of chain you use isn't long enough to drag the ground. If catching the washer as it sits on the deck is an issue, you can use a paddle drill to recess the wood deck just enough to allow the washer to sit below deck.
I am sure there are other ways to add tie down points to your trailer, but this one tends to get them in places that other methods don't reach.
I don't use chains on my tractor. I have a pretty good continuous supply of straps, and can put twice as many of them on the tractor as I can chains, without taking off the paint. A lot of law enforcement don't like the use of straps, as they prefer chains, but I have only been stopped one time while hauling tractors, and the officer was just trying to find someone to restore his late Dad's tractor, and has seen me hauling a trailer load of tractors thru his area for the 3rd time in a matter of months and thought I might know someone. We talked on the side of the road with blue lights flashing behind me for almost an hour.
David from jax

 

[Beaver Cove Deere]

Could you explain what happened?

Late in the afternoon I was asked to move the machine to a side job for the owner. It was Friday and I wanted out. Go get the trailer, came back to the site and loaded machine and only used two chains and binders, one for the rear over the tracks to the frame of the trailer and the other over the blade for a 10 mile ride across 2 towns on roads I've driven on my entire life. It's not how I normally moved machines but it was Friday and time for beers so I said good enough.
Anyway heading into a corner that had a tee intersection on the inside that I was going to take and have done so many times. I got on the service brakes a little more than the Jake and rear of the machine took a slide on the wood deck in the middle of the turn. The dozer found itself almost at the edge of the trailer deck from being loaded dead center. There was a car sitting at the stop sign that would have been taken out if the chain didn't stop it. I must have turned white as a ghost.

NEVER again did I move any machine on any trailer without 4 chains and binders minimum.
I move a 59 Vette and a Model A twice a year to a summer home for a family and there is 1 10K pound strap and ratchet on each tire.
I swear I was the only person I rode snowmobiles with who tied them down inside a 4 place enclosed trailer because non of my friends did.
I'll never forget my buddy who owns an excavating company who had a guy lose a machine on a major rotary over a highway. It totaled the machine, made a mess out of the road but thankfully nobody was hurt. Like me, he was in a rush and said good enough on a rotary we have thousands of trips around.

 

[CoyPatton]

The kioti finally arrived!

This is my first time using chains, and securing something besides a car (wheel straps) regardless. I've searched and watched the YouTube's to no avail

Are my rear chains OK here on the axle? Until a big pin shows up in the mail I can't attach to the draw bar.

My concern is that any emergency lateral load will be basically entirely on the wheel -

• Could unseat the bead, and all chain tension lost
• Full side-to-side load carried / torqued on the hubs, since its pulling sideways from the outer tire diameter

Also, ion the front, I would prefer to just chain to the axles, but the steering linkage appears to make that impossible... Ideas?

My best advise is to go by DOT standards. While you might not be required to do so by your state for private personal hauling, you are also liable for what you do if you end up in an accident, or worse a court hearing. At that point your best case will be to have followed DOT guidelines. In a nut shell (do not rely on this for legal advise), you need 4 tie-downs to the main vehicle. Each attachment (FEL bucket/forks, implement, backhoe, etc) requires a separate tie-down. Each tie down must be rated at its lowest rated item for at least 1/4 of the weigh. Someone mention adding eyebolts (they need to have a WLL rating stamped on them, or they will be derated to the lowest possible load rating for the hardware).
If you are familiar with strapping cars down, many of those techniques can be used with tractors—rim slings can be adapted to go through many tractor rims.
One finally caution would be to know the true weigh of your tractor. Filled tires, wheel weights, fuel, oil, antifreeze, hydraulic fluid, may all increase the true weight of your tractor beyond what data sheets will indicate.

 

[azbinder]

I use a strap on all 4 tires. It will actually squat the tires into the trailer as I ratchet them down. I use to use chains from and rear but I like the straps better, holds front to back plus squats it down and no chain damage.
View attachment 716342

View attachment 716343

FYI, if you set the backhoe on the deck after tying down, there will be less bounce of the tractor while towing.

 

[ljjhouser]

Here in MO they also require only 2 points, and chain any implement. And the FEL with bucket is an implement. I think over 10K, 4 points are required. I always use 4 points anyway. I don't like to cross chains from one side to the far side. Seem to add too many questions about upward motion in an accident. There are a couple of things I do not like about center binders. 1. they can really hurt you if you slip or are pushing it instead on pulling it over center. 2. Sometimes, when carrying my tractor and extra implements, I stop at a CAT scale to check all axle weights. Sometimes, I find it is not loaded as well as I thought (weight wise) and want to move it. I can quickly readjust and rescale. With ratchet binders, it is much easier to move the load a couple inches forward or back. 3. Ratchet binders are easier to adjust for the tension you want. I like peerless yellow. They do cost about 2x a center binder, but over time, they are worth it to me.

I read an interesting article about a commercial car hauler and chains. All his chains were short -6' with a hook on only one end. All his binders had a short 2' chains attached to one end and a hook on the other end. Interesting idea. I might try that. Cuts down on all the extra hanging chain.

 

[Beaver Cove Deere]

Here in MO they also require only 2 points, and chain any implement. I think over 10K, 4 points are required. I always use 4 points anyway. I don't like to cross chains from one side to the far side. Seem to add too many questions about upward motion in an accident. There are a couple of thinks I do not like about center binders. 1. they can really hurt you if you slip or are pushing it instead on pulling it over center. 2. Sometimes, when carrying my tractor and extra implements, I stop at a CAT scale to check all axle weights. Sometimes, I find it is not loaded as well as I thought (weight wise) and want to move it. I can quickly readjust and rescale. With ratchet binders, it is much easier to move the load a couple inches forward or back. 3. Ratchet binders are easier to adjust for the tension you want. I like peerless yellow. They do cost about 2x a center binder, but over time, they are worth it to me.

I read an interesting article about a commercial car hauler and chains. All his chains were short -6' with a hook on only one end. All his binders had a short 2' chains attached to one end and a hook on the other end. Interesting idea. I might try that. Cuts down on all the extra hanging chain.

I was taught to wrap the binder handle with the tag end of the chain and return the grab hook to the tight side of the chain.

 

[Fladogman]

If you go to YouTube to tractor time with Tim, and look for "tie down inspection fail" a DOT officer explains it the best of any I've heard. The officer has a couple of videos on what is required that keeps you from over thinking it. It helped me a lot.

 

[ljjhouser]

I was taught to wrap the binder handle with the tag end of the chain and return the grab hook to the tight side of the chain.

So was I. But now the binder has a slot at the end of the handle - I use one of those mini shock cords. So much quicker if I have to adjust load. I also readjust the binders after driving 10 miles or so. Usually is a little looser and I tighten. I usually travel around 300 mi if I have to haul the tractor. After I make the initial chain check, I only need to check during refueling. Then, I never have to worry about the load. But, good point. I have wrapped many binders with a ball of chain. What do you think about the short chain idea? I have not tried it, but may try one chain and binder sometime. Seem like most commercial car haulers use that around here. I just never thought of it.

 

[Xfaxman]

If you go to YouTube to tractor time with Tim, and look for "tie down inspection fail" a DOT officer explains it the best of any I've heard.

Click this:

 

[Beaver Cove Deere]

So was I. But now the binder has a slot at the end of the handle - I use one of those mini shock cords. So much quicker if I have to adjust load. I also readjust the binders after driving 10 miles or so. Usually is a little looser and I tighten. I usually travel around 300 mi if I have to haul the tractor. After I make the initial chain check, I only need to check during refueling. Then, I never have to worry about the load. But, good point. I have wrapped many binders with a ball of chain. What do you think about the short chain idea? I have not tried it, but may try one chain and binder sometime. Seem like most commercial car haulers use that around here. I just never thought of it.

I'm too old school to change now. LOL I'm guessing my binders are going on to 45 years old now long before somebody thought of adding a slot.
I can see the usefulness of a short chain on the binder if you move the same stuff every day like say excavators but as an all in one cure all I'm not so sure.

 

[Tony H]

My first thought is that those chains you show are not rated for the tractor weight. That aside, I pull my tractor onto the trailer, run a chain thru a large 'o' ring I mounted to the front pushback. When chain is secured to trailer, I back the tractor up until chain is tight then I use a chain thru a ring in the rear hitch with a binder and snug that. It's fast and seems to work well.

 

[Fladogman]

Click this:

That's it, trooper hoover

 

[Railroadman1]

as stated earlier on the rear it is much better to chain across the trailer on the dangles the preferred way is four corner a ratchet & chain on each,,, chain each implement including FEL

 

[sitislicker]

For what it's worth, recently saw article in our paper about an accident just a few miles away from us. Lady in a Suburban had exited the freeway off ramp and was waiting behind traffic at a stop sign. The off ramp at that point is about 30' below the freeway and fairly close so has a dirt slope down from the freeway and then a 15' vertical cement retaining wall to hold back the freeway fill. A guy hauling a pretty good sized excavator was on the freeway, wandered to the shoulder, over corrected and hit the guardrail. As a result, the excavator fell off the trailer, slid down the slope and tumbled on top of the suburban crushing the woman. Have no idea how well it was tied down but however it was didn't hold up to the need. Maybe it was and it just couldn't hang on to the excavator, maybe it wasn't. Nasty scene and I cringe every time I drive by it, in our Suburban, thinking of the poor woman, sitting there, with probably no idea of what was about to happen to her. What's done is done but certainly a vivid reminder of what potentially can go wrong when dealing with larger and heavier equipment. Be careful out there as what happens can impact not only you but others that have nothing to do with what caused the situation yet still suffer the consequences.

 

[ljjhouser]

Sitislicker, - Welcome to TBN. Best wishes, Larry

 

[orangetree]

My first thought is that those chains you show are not rated for the tractor weight. That aside, I pull my tractor onto the trailer, run a chain thru a large 'o' ring I mounted to the front pushback. When chain is secured to trailer, I back the tractor up until chain is tight then I use a chain thru a ring in the rear hitch with a binder and snug that. It's fast and seems to work well.

based on what observation do you say this?

chains are 5/16, with 5/16 hardware. WLL of each is 4700#. Divide by half due to "attached from vehicle to load". So 2350# per chain There are 4 chains, giving an agregate WLL of 9400#. Tie-down loops (used in the back) are 6300# each (in the front i use the 3/16" steel fully-welded stake pockets; they do not have a WLL listed)

Tractor and all implements weigh well under 6000lb. Requirement is for securement to cover half of that, or 3000#.

So I believe I am 3x the legal WLL on my securement(?) I suppose I could go with 2 chains rather than four as allowed by law, but that seems like a Bad Idea. Also note i will be strapping the FEL.

 

[nikerret]

based on what observation do you say this?

chains are 5/16, with 5/16 hardware. WLL of each is 4700#. Divide by half due to "attached from vehicle to load". So 2350# per chain There are 4 chains, giving an agregate WLL of 9400#. Tie-down loops (used in the back) are 6300# each (in the front i use the 3/16" steel fully-welded stake pockets; they do not have a WLL listed)

Tractor and all implements weigh well under 6000lb. Requirement is for securement to cover half of that, or 3000#.

So I believe I am 3x the legal WLL on my securement(?) I suppose I could go with 2 chains rather than four as allowed by law, but that seems like a Bad Idea. Also note i will be strapping the FEL.

I‘m pretty sure he was joking.


Back on track, I’ve found axle straps are worth having. I’ve used them to go around tires, axles, and frame parts. Keep a few with your load securement equipment. They are inexpensive and often offer more options.

They may or may not be very helpful, in this situation. I’m more talking, in general.


Here is one of many options, on the market:

https://www.amazon.com/Robbor-Protective-lb-Breaking-lb-Working-Applications/dp/B01MXUP6PU/ref=asc_df_B01MXUP6PU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242042684287&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5129295434514127689&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9024070&hvtargid=pla-494668467764&psc=1

Buy what suits you. There are different colors and strength ratings. The ones I linked have protective sleeves, which are worth having. You can use your chains, with these, as long as the rings are flat enough to fit in the slip hook.

The other thing I really like, in general, are the axle straps with a ratchet strap on them. You wouldn’t use your chains and binders (which it seems you bought nice stuff), but it’s handy for automobiles and tractors. These types of straps aren’t very good with construction equipment, though.