nOOb to chaining down - is this sufficient?

   / nOOb to chaining down - is this sufficient? #12  
A single point of attachment (like the drawbar) is NOT going to prevent a diagonal shift of the load and you should also be aware of how a hard braking event is going to react.

I almost lost a bulldozer off a trailer behind my Mack one day.
 
   / nOOb to chaining down - is this sufficient? #13  
I use a strap on all 4 tires. It will actually squat the tires into the trailer as I ratchet them down. I use to use chains from and rear but I like the straps better, holds front to back plus squats it down and no chain damage.
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   / nOOb to chaining down - is this sufficient? #14  
My binding plan is this - chain tractor 4 point, the 2 rear are to the clevis and draw bar - I don't like to see chain on the rear axle - don't want it all skinned up and rusting - the front two, i have attach a 2 x 6 about 8" long rectangle 1/4" heavy steel channel to the front of frame below front guard. It is bolted to the frame in existing holes. slide chain and hook thru the channel and hooked to far side - A G70 hook will fit thru to the other side. Hhe loader and bucket is secured by chain through the loader pipe hole. I ONLY USE RACHET BINDERS. They are safe and easier to work with. I sometime travel about 300 miles with the tractor. I also on occasion stop at a CAT scale to make sure the load is where I want it. Best Wishes, Larry
 

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   / nOOb to chaining down - is this sufficient? #15  
I also agree that chaining to the axles and having the chains deflected by the tires isn't the best possible way, HOWEVER, it is better than some other ways. I would consider using a piece of carpet or rubber mat to keep the chains from stripping all the paint off of the axles and tie down points.
Egon,
The bucket on your backhoe pictures, while tied down nicely, doesn't appear to prevent side to side motion as well as it could. You would be better to use a chain to each side and not have the chain that goes all the way across that the chains that actually hold the bucket are attached to. The two shorter chains will allow the bucket to move side to side a lot sooner than if you had just went straight to the bucket from each side. I figure you probably did it that way due to the amount and length of the chains and binders you had available, and I understand that, however since we are trying to help with "the best way" I thought this worth mentioning.
David from jax
If I recall correctly I was working with one chain without the right hooks. The hoe tie down varies almost every time it’s chained down. With some hooks in the proper orientation welded on would be much better and may happen. ( actually it’s been happening for ten years or so )
 
   / nOOb to chaining down - is this sufficient?
  • Thread Starter
#16  
OK, this seems minimally sufficient. I don't love:
  • The single contact on the rear (draw bar); seems plenty strong, but not as stable as two (?). Good angle on the chains, though
  • On the front, there is just no factory frame or axle location that can tie down at a 'good' angle (to the proper front tie down points ... Nothing at all is out of the buckets way, and only the brush guard mount works moving back from the tie down to the first stake pocket. Stake pocket is strong enough I'm sure, but the angle is poor (too side to side, needs more front/rear angle)
Really dumb there are not (at least optional) factory proper tie down rings. All that would take is 4 properly spaced holes in the front frame... Come on kioti! I'll definitely be making something when I get the time.

FWIW i will be ratchet - strapping the bucket down
 

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   / nOOb to chaining down - is this sufficient? #17  
A single point of attachment (like the drawbar) is NOT going to prevent a diagonal shift of the load and you should also be aware of how a hard braking event is going to react.

I almost lost a bulldozer off a trailer behind my Mack one day.


It absolutely will when done correctly
 
   / nOOb to chaining down - is this sufficient? #18  
A single point of attachment (like the drawbar) is NOT going to prevent a diagonal shift of the load and you should also be aware of how a hard braking event is going to react.

I almost lost a bulldozer off a trailer behind my Mack one day.
Could you explain what happened?
 
   / nOOb to chaining down - is this sufficient? #19  
A drawbar with a clevis and running a chain thru it and angled back will allow side to side movement. In times where you use the drawbar with, you would be better to use two separate chains and maybe pull them more to the side. This will not stop the forward motion created by slamming on the brakes, so beware of that by adding something pulling back towards the rear of the trailer.
David from jax
 
   / nOOb to chaining down - is this sufficient? #20  
There are web sites that show proper rigging procedure. Diagrams and everything. It would be a good idea to Google how to rig loads. I learned how to rig machine tools from a book years ago and that stuff is online now. I think the OP should Google rigging.
Eric
 
 
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