OP
orangetree
Gold Member
I'm with you there - never considered using one chain with an un-anchored / 'floating' clevis ... I'm using a chain & binder at each of the four corners
nOOb to chaining down - is this sufficient?
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OP
orangetree
Gold Member
I have a technical background, and understand statics and dynamics. I don't believe that's the issue here. And for what it's worth, i did google (well, DuckDuckGo for me). What i find, unsurprisingly, is lots about statics, and also lots about what various orientations of parts (hooks, etc) implies about the way the load (on the part) is distributed in a mechanics-of-materials sense.
My case (by ALL means - correct me if i'm wrong) has:
- generally correct use of the implements (chains, hooks, etc) themselves
- very high design factor for all the equipment in general, versus the need; also i'm using 4 points for the main unit versus the DOT required two.
- an actual, specific piece of equipment to transport that was (inexplicably!, but clearly very commonly) not designed with dedicated transport features
- a front axle that cannot be chained, due to steering linkage
- a rear axle that can't be chained as a practical matter because i'd have to disassemble the 3point links, to get an unobstructed chain path
- a quality trailer (10k gvw C&B, dedicated corner tie downs, etc) but no obvious 'best' way to mate the two
Thanks.
sandman2234
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Mating the two can be an issue, but I have found that welding a piece of pipe vertically against a crossmember, then drilling up through the floor (to get the right spot), then dropping short piece of chain with a flat washer on top of the last link thru the pipe. The flat washer stops the chain from falling thru. Take a bolt and weld it in the last link, (or a bolt with spacers to keep it centered) which will keep the chain from being pulled up thru the pipe. You now have a tie-down spot exactly where you need it! You never use the very last link where the washer is at, and you need to make sure that the piece of chain you use isn't long enough to drag the ground. If catching the washer as it sits on the deck is an issue, you can use a paddle drill to recess the wood deck just enough to allow the washer to sit below deck.
I am sure there are other ways to add tie down points to your trailer, but this one tends to get them in places that other methods don't reach.
I don't use chains on my tractor. I have a pretty good continuous supply of straps, and can put twice as many of them on the tractor as I can chains, without taking off the paint. A lot of law enforcement don't like the use of straps, as they prefer chains, but I have only been stopped one time while hauling tractors, and the officer was just trying to find someone to restore his late Dad's tractor, and has seen me hauling a trailer load of tractors thru his area for the 3rd time in a matter of months and thought I might know someone. We talked on the side of the road with blue lights flashing behind me for almost an hour.
David from jax
I am sure there are other ways to add tie down points to your trailer, but this one tends to get them in places that other methods don't reach.
I don't use chains on my tractor. I have a pretty good continuous supply of straps, and can put twice as many of them on the tractor as I can chains, without taking off the paint. A lot of law enforcement don't like the use of straps, as they prefer chains, but I have only been stopped one time while hauling tractors, and the officer was just trying to find someone to restore his late Dad's tractor, and has seen me hauling a trailer load of tractors thru his area for the 3rd time in a matter of months and thought I might know someone. We talked on the side of the road with blue lights flashing behind me for almost an hour.
David from jax
Beaver Cove Deere
Gold Member
Late in the afternoon I was asked to move the machine to a side job for the owner. It was Friday and I wanted out. Go get the trailer, came back to the site and loaded machine and only used two chains and binders, one for the rear over the tracks to the frame of the trailer and the other over the blade for a 10 mile ride across 2 towns on roads I've driven on my entire life. It's not how I normally moved machines but it was Friday and time for beers so I said good enough.
Anyway heading into a corner that had a tee intersection on the inside that I was going to take and have done so many times. I got on the service brakes a little more than the Jake and rear of the machine took a slide on the wood deck in the middle of the turn. The dozer found itself almost at the edge of the trailer deck from being loaded dead center. There was a car sitting at the stop sign that would have been taken out if the chain didn't stop it. I must have turned white as a ghost.
NEVER again did I move any machine on any trailer without 4 chains and binders minimum.
I move a 59 Vette and a Model A twice a year to a summer home for a family and there is 1 10K pound strap and ratchet on each tire.
I swear I was the only person I rode snowmobiles with who tied them down inside a 4 place enclosed trailer because non of my friends did.
I'll never forget my buddy who owns an excavating company who had a guy lose a machine on a major rotary over a highway. It totaled the machine, made a mess out of the road but thankfully nobody was hurt. Like me, he was in a rush and said good enough on a rotary we have thousands of trips around.
CoyPatton
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My best advise is to go by DOT standards. While you might not be required to do so by your state for private personal hauling, you are also liable for what you do if you end up in an accident, or worse a court hearing. At that point your best case will be to have followed DOT guidelines. In a nut shell (do not rely on this for legal advise), you need 4 tie-downs to the main vehicle. Each attachment (FEL bucket/forks, implement, backhoe, etc) requires a separate tie-down. Each tie down must be rated at its lowest rated item for at least 1/4 of the weigh. Someone mention adding eyebolts (they need to have a WLL rating stamped on them, or they will be derated to the lowest possible load rating for the hardware).
If you are familiar with strapping cars down, many of those techniques can be used with tractors—rim slings can be adapted to go through many tractor rims.
One finally caution would be to know the true weigh of your tractor. Filled tires, wheel weights, fuel, oil, antifreeze, hydraulic fluid, may all increase the true weight of your tractor beyond what data sheets will indicate.
azbinder
Gold Member
FYI, if you set the backhoe on the deck after tying down, there will be less bounce of the tractor while towing.
Here in MO they also require only 2 points, and chain any implement. And the FEL with bucket is an implement. I think over 10K, 4 points are required. I always use 4 points anyway. I don't like to cross chains from one side to the far side. Seem to add too many questions about upward motion in an accident. There are a couple of things I do not like about center binders. 1. they can really hurt you if you slip or are pushing it instead on pulling it over center. 2. Sometimes, when carrying my tractor and extra implements, I stop at a CAT scale to check all axle weights. Sometimes, I find it is not loaded as well as I thought (weight wise) and want to move it. I can quickly readjust and rescale. With ratchet binders, it is much easier to move the load a couple inches forward or back. 3. Ratchet binders are easier to adjust for the tension you want. I like peerless yellow. They do cost about 2x a center binder, but over time, they are worth it to me.
I read an interesting article about a commercial car hauler and chains. All his chains were short -6' with a hook on only one end. All his binders had a short 2' chains attached to one end and a hook on the other end. Interesting idea. I might try that. Cuts down on all the extra hanging chain.
I read an interesting article about a commercial car hauler and chains. All his chains were short -6' with a hook on only one end. All his binders had a short 2' chains attached to one end and a hook on the other end. Interesting idea. I might try that. Cuts down on all the extra hanging chain.
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Beaver Cove Deere
Gold Member
I was taught to wrap the binder handle with the tag end of the chain and return the grab hook to the tight side of the chain.
If you go to YouTube to tractor time with Tim, and look for "tie down inspection fail" a DOT officer explains it the best of any I've heard. The officer has a couple of videos on what is required that keeps you from over thinking it. It helped me a lot.
So was I. But now the binder has a slot at the end of the handle - I use one of those mini shock cords. So much quicker if I have to adjust load. I also readjust the binders after driving 10 miles or so. Usually is a little looser and I tighten. I usually travel around 300 mi if I have to haul the tractor. After I make the initial chain check, I only need to check during refueling. Then, I never have to worry about the load. But, good point. I have wrapped many binders with a ball of chain. What do you think about the short chain idea? I have not tried it, but may try one chain and binder sometime. Seem like most commercial car haulers use that around here. I just never thought of it.