Bob Rocks if/when it comes time to tear it apart I'll check into the local shops.
Sound more and more like there really is a problem internally.
That's what I figured from the get go, just wanted some other ideas opinons :thumbsup: And in the end maybe even help someone else that comes here?????
If your clutch plate fell apart and is doubled up making it extra thick so it won't disengage then you would have suddenly had excessive free play in the clutch pedal, did this happen? Did it have little free play when it was working then suddenly have more free play when not working?
stayed the same
When you press the clutch, do you feel the same tension now as you did when it was working?
yep, the only thing that changed is it doesn't want to disengage{erratic function may be a better way to explain}. I did take the plate off to watch the action{as best I could see} and everything seemed to move the way it should. It's still hard to see things real good in there but if I hold my head, flash light, and face :laughing: at just the right angle I could see the release bearing bracket move. From what I could see things seemed good except the nasty water. Also sounds normal
If you take all the free play out, you should press the clutch and feel the spring resisting you more and more up to a point where you over extend it, then it should become a little less resistance.
I have it adjusted so far now that it will hit the housing, feels the same once it gets out of free play, free play is about an inch.
It is all about feeling, I would try to get a friend (that is mechanical) to put a fresh set of eyes and hands on it for another opinion before the hassle of taking it apart.
I don't have any friends
Actually I live off the beatin path not many folks around. The ones I do know are allways busy unless of course they need something from me
I have rebuilt trans before even a couple of automatics out of a jeep and old chevy PU. I figured I'd have to tear this down I just wanted to make sure I remembered all the little {easier} stuff 1st. This site has helped in the past with ideas and a different way to look at something so........here I am again
Note: I think the whole shear pin in the clutch linkage anywhere is just a poor design. Cars and Trucks do not use them, the linkage is all solid and there is no need for a weak link. The clutch on a tractor has no special needs that would require a weak link. If the clutch were to jam the weak link should be your foot feeling a problem and not mashing it.
I agree, but whom ever designed these doesn't. I take it you were raised the old fashioned way around machines, "listen to them and they'll tell what is happening". I was taught this and I have also tried to teach my kids the same. Even though I feel that is a good way to be taught it's not the norm for today, so maybe that's why they designed the shear pins?
Note 2: If the shear pins inside are going to fail, they will regardless of what is going on outside. My shear pin was failing just from normal use, so I got rid of it.
Is it possible that it{your outside 1} failed so that the inside ones{2} wouldn't, just a thought.
If a situation arose where the clutch jammed and you applied excessive force to the pedal which sheared the pin on the outside and saved the pins on the inside... what good is that?
The good of that is that it's much easier to fix the outside pin compared to tearing the machine down to get inside
especially if it's just from wear or actual design.
You still need to open the tractor and find out what jammed the clutch.
I answered your question to quick sorry
you are correct if it was jammed, then before anything sheared/snapped maybe it should be torn into?
The only thing I can figure is the design of how it works. Your outside shear broke because of normal wear which inturn probably saved the inside pins. Now if you make the outside stronger then the in, then the inside will shear before the outside. Hope this helps clear up what my opinion is and how I see THEIR design. Remember it's their design not mine and I understand what you're saying, but when modifying something it will still only be a strong as the next weakest link, in this case the inside shear pins.
So in my case, I would shear the pins on the inside and just weld those up while I am in there fixing the clutch.
I had allready planed on reinforcing the inside pins :thumbsup: Once I relized I may have to tear this apart and saw those pins{in the manual} I figured I'd fix/reinforce everything even the crappy shear pins{even if there is nothing wrong with them}.
If the clutch is working normally and the pins just failed because they are cheap and weak, that will happen no matter what is on the outside joint (be it a working roll pin or a bolt and tack weld).
Here is where I'll disagree atleast to a small extent. In this case we have 3 shear pins 1 outside and 2 on the inner. If they're all made the same then the 2 fixed to the clutch release fork would be twice a strong as the 1 connected to the clutch release lever. I do agree they are all somewhat cheap and if anyone has to tear into this type of machine then they should modify all 3
Of course sooner or later the inside ones will fail because of design, maybe by that time you'd allready be there needing a new clutch?
Note 3: I am not pushing anyone to weld the linkage, I am just arguing the need for a "weak link". Weak Links are used in areas where overload is possible and protection is needed. There is no reason for clutch pedal overload.
Gene :^)
I agree with what you're saying, but just remember modifying one part of a unit still only makes it as strong as the weakest part of the same unit. If a weld, bolt, etc... is going to be used then IMO other mods should be done also. When I redid my shear pin on my tractor I did upgrade to a stronger pin, but still gave it room to do what it was designed for. I'm not disagreeing with your opinion just trying to explain what I feel the design is and what may happen.
Thanks agin everyone for your insights, I'll keep ya updated as to what happens. I'm also going to try the wash out trick, but not really going to get my hopes up. I'm thinking something snapped or twisted out of shape. I did mention the water and we have been down to 27 below 0 F. Water is a power of mother nature that can destroy when it wants. If nothing else I have learned there is a weep hole at the bottom of the clutch housing{it's small} and it should be check regular right along with the nuts, bolts, track tention, oil filters, grease, and ....... and ..... and...... oh the joys of owning machinery
:laughing:
