Not pretty, but...

   / Not pretty, but... #21  
For a grinder you are looking for something with the most amps.

I have several in various diameters, and not being a stellar weldor, use them often. You can really lean into the ones with the higher amp rating and get the sparks going like the Fourth of July.
 
   / Not pretty, but... #22  
A tip i read in a welding book use a fuel pump vacuum gauge on the tip to set the preasure not the gauge . A lot of heave welding was done with OA in the past. I would grind the welds down and try another pass. HF has a grinder on sale for less than $ 20 that will work for what you need. I use them hard and they hold up pretty good.
 
   / Not pretty, but... #23  
I love the quote! I don't yet even own a grinder, but that's been on my list for a while. Any suggestions there for a not-too-often-used machine? One of those cheap imports with the right-angle wheel? Is that what could be used to get into a 90-degree joint like on my hooks?

If you're going to weld, you need a grinder. I have a Bosch 4-1/2" angle grinder I got for free because I bought an even more expensive Bosch tool. I wish I had a couple more so I don't have to change from grinding wheel to wire brush to cutting wheel.

A 7" and 9" will probably remove metal quicker; but they will be pricier and so will the wheels, etc you put on it. Also a larger grinder will be harder to control and wear you out quicker.

Just make sure that whatever you put on it is rated at or preferably above the grinder's max RPM.
 
   / Not pretty, but...
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Thanks! I see Father's Day is coming up.....:D
 
   / Not pretty, but... #25  
I have one of the $15 Harbor Freight 4 1/2 inchers, and it works ok, but just be aware it doesnt have bearings , it has bushings, and probably wont last as long as some of the better grinders, It works fine tho. I have heard that some people have taken out the bushing,s and replaced them with some good bearings for very little money. I have 3 of that size grinders of various brands, and could use another one. It is just so much faster and convienant to not have to change wheels all the time.

James K0UA
 
   / Not pretty, but... #26  
So O/A welding is suitable for structural work??

I think of it more for sheet metal, light gauge etc. never would of thought of O/A for install a chain grab hook.

I have a O/A set up for cutting, and I even have the brazing torch head but have never even tried it. My buddy borrowed it years ago to do some auto panels on a restoration and left me with a couple large packages of brazing rod with white flux on them. wonder if they are still good?

JB.
 
   / Not pretty, but... #27  
I would like to ask a dummy type question.
If this is thred stealing I am sorry but I was wondering. In high school I
did a "little" brazing but I have never heard of using a O/A torch to weld steel I have a torch and was gonna try brazing again some day but what type of filler rod do you use for steel? also I have a brazing tip I assume this would not work for steel,...:confused2: or am I wrong?
 
   / Not pretty, but...
  • Thread Starter
#28  
I sure ain't no expert, but I do know you can melt steel with O/A. If that's possible, you can definitely weld.

When I took my class a year+ ago I concentrated on that, as that's what I have, and got to be fair at it, with no filler. Those hooks, however, are angled at the base and require filler.

If you can get everything to the melting point and add the filler, it works. I was given some "plain" mild steel rods for that use, and they seem to have worked OK.

The trick (as I understand it) is to get both pieces at the melting point (3 pieces, if you include filler) and allow the steel to flow together, forming a monolithic bond.

At least, that's my understanding- in practice, well, it just takes practice:cool:.... I'm sure not saying my joints are great- but I think they'll hold.
 
   / Not pretty, but... #29  
Looks good enugh for the job.
 
   / Not pretty, but... #30  
what type of filler rod do you use for steel? also I have a brazing tip I assume this would not work for steel,...:confused2: or am I wrong?

Jeff you can use rebar tie wire, or steel coat hangers. Or your local welding supply will have O/A filler rod. Yes your brazing tip will work to weld steel.
 
   / Not pretty, but... #31  
Shield Arc said:
Jeff you can use rebar tie wire, or steel coat hangers. Or your local welding supply will have O/A filler rod. Yes your brazing tip will work to weld steel.

I had a small welding project at work the other day and the filler rod was nowhere to be found but that cintas wire hanger solved the problem....
 
   / Not pretty, but... #32  
" I have a O/A set up for cutting, and I even have the brazing torch head but have never even tried it. My buddy borrowed it years ago to do some auto panels on a restoration and left me with a couple large packages of brazing rod with white flux on them. wonder if they are still good? "
Yes they are still good. Most of the time for brazing I use plain old "Boraxo" as a flux.

I would like to ask a dummy type question.
If this is thred stealing I am sorry but I was wondering. In high school I
did a "little" brazing but I have never heard of using a O/A torch to weld steel I have a torch and was gonna try brazing again some day but what type of filler rod do you use for steel? also I have a brazing tip I assume this would not work for steel,...:confused2: or am I wrong?

Any steel wire will work as a filler. Old coat hangers were a little fatter than the new ones. Bailing wire (re-bar tie wire), coat hangers are all fine. No flux is needed. Welding flame is important, you want netural or a tiny rich, never and oxidizing flame, it will ruin your weld.
 
   / Not pretty, but...
  • Thread Starter
#33  
Finally got myself a grinder. After looking at a number of them, settled on one by Milwaukee (they used to make really good tools...).

4.5", 7 amps, nice easy lock-ON switch (or intermittent use), quick release for changing guard position, no wrench needed. Around $70.

Happy Father's Day!:D
 
   / Not pretty, but... #34  
Well thanks for the replys i will have to try it. Can some one explain a Netural or Tiny Rich flame ?
 
   / Not pretty, but... #35  
Well when you start with just the acetylene feather and start to bring up your Oxy gas the outer cone starts to get shorter and shorter until it just dissapears, that is the "neutral" flame. Then if you continue to add Oxy past that point you are into the "oxygen rich area" or oxidising flame.

A carbuising flame is when you have not added enough oxy to get to a neutral flame, but have an excess of carbon from the acetylene in the flame, this carbon will combine with the molten metal and add carbon atoms to its structure.

Hope this helps.

James K0UA
 
   / Not pretty, but... #36  
Well my compliments to those who can gas weld, the old black smiths had a way to weld as well I guess.

But the cost of a decent O/A outfit, along with the tanks and gas is more than a decent buzz box. Yeah coat hangers are cheaper than 7018 but over all not really saving anything and for something critical like a chain hook I wouldn't think O/A is suitable.

JB
 
   / Not pretty, but... #37  
...the old black smiths had a way to weld as well I guess.

JB

I believe the technique is called forge-welding or something similar where they beat on the pieces while its red-hot to get it to fuse together. If I recall correctly, old time sword makers used this technique to add layers to the blade for flexibility by beating the crap out of it until it was thin, then fold the metal over on itself and beat on it until it fused, and repeat as often as necessary.
 
   / Not pretty, but...
  • Thread Starter
#38  
Well, my O/A set-up was "free" in a sense, so that expense was OK.... Guess I'm just old fashioned; I see where most replacement parts for a W200 torch handle (tips, mixers, etc.) are now pretty much obsolete.

But I'm still hoping to find a #30 tip for my set- that one was missing when I inherited the set (along with my refigeration gauges & tool pouch) from my days in HVAC back in the late 80s.

mjncad- you're describing to a tee the process swordmakers used in feudal Japan for their Samurai masters. Still used today, makes an amazing edge.
 
   / Not pretty, but... #39  
I have an uncle who is a blacksmith. He's a member of a knife guild (among other guilds), and he has told me about some of the knives that his peers have made. I guess a favorite is twisted steel cable. A guy will take the cable and heat and beat a number of times to get a folded blade with an incredible look and super strength.

This uncle has teased me a number of times that those of us who think an electric welder is the go-to for metal work haven't even scratched the surface of possibilities. My response has always been something weak like "I'd like to see you forge weld a box scraper back together in time to finish the job before you run out of daylight."
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2016 INTERNATIONAL PROSTAR TANDEM AXLE DAY CAB (A59904)
2016 INTERNATIONAL...
New/Unused Quick Attach Bale Spear (A57454)
New/Unused Quick...
Brock 36'x17' Flat Bottom Grain Storage Tank (A57148)
Brock 36'x17' Flat...
HYDRAULIC TILTING BUCKET FOR MINI EXCAVATOR (A58214)
HYDRAULIC TILTING...
2006 TRAIL KING ADVANTAGE PLUS RGN/DETACH TRAILER (A60430)
2006 TRAIL KING...
Toyota 8BPU15 3,000 LB Electric Forklift (A59228)
Toyota 8BPU15...
 
Top