NX5510 radio plug?

[countrybumpkin]

Glad you figured it out and wasn't a real problem. I did the same thing just last week, while working on the bush hog, had to start the tractor to raise the cutter and shut it off. Went back to working on cutter and looked up and seen radio on, check switch and just didn't turn it back to off just stopped at acc.

 

[RockyNY]

I couldn't believe that was what it was, I thought I had double checked it.
Also, regarding the install, I ordered the connecter referenced previously from Amazon, popped out the extra wires and hooked everything up. Worked great with no modification of the factory harness.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Yeah I would rather the accessory position be backwards like most cars and trucks use to be. I just cut the harness and wired in the new radios plug.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

I'm going to ignore this thread unless I'm needed. Smile.

 

[Threepoint]

I'm going to ignore this thread unless I'm needed. Smile.

Eric, you're always needed. :laughing:

Hard-wired my Pyle radio in on my NX4510 last year just a few weeks before I learned of a source for a factory compatible connector. No big deal, as I don't plan to ever remove and replace the unit as long as it continues to work well.

The Pyle model I have has NOAA weather radio, but no clock. Many times I'd like to be able to just look up and see what time it is without having to pull out my smart phone. Haven't worn a watch in years! But then there is the battery drain concern. Even without that, a couple of times over the last year I've come out to a dead battery after not using the tractor for a couple of weeks. Key was off and removed. I don't think the onboard electronics in the NX are sophisticated enough to have any "always on" drain with key off, so I'm thinking maybe a sticking relay. Haven't gotten around to troubleshooting it yet.

 

[MinnesotaEric]

While continuing to ignore this thread (I know), I will offer that my radio doesn't suck the battery down enough to prevent heating the engine and cranking it over in four weeks.

I haven't left it longer but will report if I leave my tractor alone for five weeks or more on this future.

 

[mudplugger]

I know I'm coming into this thread - way after there have been many answers - but for anyone in Europe (and possibly the US too) looking for a plug and play solution, then the answer to convert the Original Radio Harness in the Cab version of recent Kioti Tractors To ISO connectors is the Celsus AIS2144 connector.
Just search Google for "Celsus AIS2144" and you should get lucky.
Mine worked like a charm.
If you can't find that, then search for "ISUZU RODEO, TROOPER 1995 ONWARDS ISO WIRING HARNESS ADAPTOR"
That should give what you need.
Below is a picture from the Celsus website.

 

[DieselBound]

I don't yet have my NX, so I cannot look to see what the wiring harness looks like. Can mudplugger or someone else confirm that this would be a mate to the stock harness?

Amazon.com: Stereo Wire Harness Isuzu Rodeo 2 3 4 24 (car radio wiring installation parts): Automotive

Also, and just slightly off-topic, what size of speakers can be fit into the existing mountings spots? (or do the cabs come with speakers?)

 

[Threepoint]

Diesel, I just looked at the factory OEM connector that I snipped off when I hardwired my aftermarket radio. Comparing it to what you linked to, I can't tell from the picture whether it would mate up. Instead, I think I'd order one of these, which sounds more like what Mudplugger referred to: Amazon.com: Scosche Radio Wiring Harness for 1995-Up Isuzu/Honda/Acura Connector - Sport Utility Vehicles: Car Electronics It's for Izuzu Rodeo Troopers 1995 on. At $4.95 incl. shipping, you wouldn't be out much, and the reviews are better.

Can't help you on the speaker question, but I'm sure someone else can. I recall a TBN thread on it somewhere, awhile back. I think the stock speakers are fine for a tractor, even with a cab. Especially while wearing ear protection! But since you'll probably be removing the cab roof for access to install your radio, now is probably the time to switch them. BTW, you'll need a second person to lift the roof clear. It's heavy. You may also be able to get enough access, at least just for installing the radio, by propping up the roof. I did my install from inside the cab, but my radio is light weight, so I didn't need to use anchoring hardware on its backside.

 

[DieselBound]

Threepoint, many thanks for that link! :thumbsup:

I'll get one and have it at the ready. When it comes time to get a radio I'll pick it up and exclaim to my wife: "I'm missing a part of this; I need to buy the radio to make it work!" :laughing:

 

[Threepoint]

Good plan!

After you get the connector but before pulling the roof, remove the blank cover plate in the headliner and pull the factory harness out far enough to double-check compatibility. Also, from the photo, it looks like the radio-side of the connector has more input-leads than will be used by the factory harness.

When hooking up, you can check which wires in the factory harness go to which speaker by touching them to the terminals of a 9v battery and listening for the diaphragm to "thump". Polarity to the speakers doesn't matter unless you want to be sure the speakers are in phase (of dubious importance in that tractor cab, IMO!). If that matters to you, you'll need to note the direction the diaphragm moves as you touch the wires, then make sure both move in the same way with the polarity you've chosen. I think you may have to have the roof off to see that, as I didn't see an easy way to remove the speaker grills from inside the cab.

Be sure to let us know if that's the right connector, for the benefit of future NX owners. :thumbsup:

 

[mudplugger]

This is what you need.
Celsus ICE - car audio accessories
This is for those in Europe - but it is available from Amazon... and in the US - search for "Celsus AIS2144"

Straight plug and play for me - a digital audio player/radio with ISO connections.
No wiring, needed, just plugged radio into the ISO connectors and then the main connector into the loom, added the antenna connection, and it worked fine.
It's lightweight radio unit so was able to do whole fitting in about an hour, no roof lift.
Hardest bit was accurately cutting the hard plastic cover to fit radio into that, because the stock opening behind the cover plate was just a bit too big.

Isuzu and Honda also used these connectors apparently.

 

[DieselBound]

mudplugger, that connector appears to be identical to the one Threepoint noted.:thumbsup:

 

[mudplugger]

Yes it is.
The Celsus version had the ISO connections too - and correctly pre-wired, so even less messing about.

 

[mudplugger]

Yes it is.
The Celsus version had the ISO connections too - and correctly pre-wired, so even less messing about.

This is what you are connecting to (tractor wiring end)

 

[DieselBound]

Don't think that I'd run across any pictures of the stock wiring like that. Great contribution!

 

[mudplugger]

It was a set of photos I took when I needed to match up the connector... And find the right adaptor.
Glad it helped!

 

[DieselBound]

Finally getting around to install a stereo. Just parsed out all the wiring stuff and thought I'd add a note here on the Isuzu harness (IU02B).

Everything is a fit except that you have to connect the "Front" speaker wires from that harness to the stereo's "Rear" speaker wires. It's not an issue with the Isuzu harness but of Kioti's pin arrangement: from Kioti's schematics (mudplugger, once again, many thanks for the electronic copy of the service manual!) they put the rear wires in the connector where (by apparent standards) the fronts should go. If you were to wire the connector harness to the stereo according to the markings on the connector's and the stereo's wires things would work, but the stereo would only produce sound with the fader set to "Front," which would be kind of confusing (when there's only speakers in the rear of the cab), though it would still work.

I'm going to wrap this up and call it a success, though I haven't wired it up yet: I did test the wires with the connector harness plugged into the tractor harness and everything checked out.

Now I need to figure out how to physically mount the stereo! (and I thought the wiring was going to be the tricky part!) Going to start a separate thread.

 

[mudplugger]

Finally getting around to install a stereo. Just parsed out all the wiring stuff and thought I'd add a note here on the Isuzu harness (IU02B).

Everything is a fit except that you have to connect the "Front" speaker wires from that harness to the stereo's "Rear" speaker wires. It's not an issue with the Isuzu harness but of Kioti's pin arrangement: from Kioti's schematics (mudplugger, once again, many thanks for the electronic copy of the service manual!) they put the rear wires in the connector where (by apparent standards) the fronts should go. If you were to wire the connector harness to the stereo according to the markings on the connector's and the stereo's wires things would work, but the stereo would only produce sound with the fader set to "Front," which would be kind of confusing (when there's only speakers in the rear of the cab), though it would still work.

I'm going to wrap this up and call it a success, though I haven't wired it up yet: I did test the wires with the connector harness plugged into the tractor harness and everything checked out.

Now I need to figure out how to physically mount the stereo! (and I thought the wiring was going to be the tricky part!) Going to start a separate thread.

That's interesting - since mine fired up OK straight away with "front speakers" being the ones that seemed to immediately drive the pair provided (above and slightly behind the occupant) - without any fader adjustment.
I did use the Celsus to ISO adaptor for fitting my DAB radio plug to plug and that seemed fine... plug and play.
Re: other stuff, it's amazing what's in the public domain... no problem.
I'm impressed with my NX6010HST, but a bit disappointed the loader can't handle one of our laden pallets - it will just lift the Pallet - but no tilt/crowd function - so it's dangerous to use for offloading a trailer.
Just sourced a good second hand 3 point link forklift attachment that will lift 1600Kg to 2.80m - way above what we need.
Our pallets are around 880Kg. Lift is from trailer to floor... and back again..

 

[DieselBound]

With my stereo installed I was able to verify that the stereo functions vis a vis fade work as I'd mapped above.

mudplugger, on your loader I'd be inclined to check with your dealer. Maybe the pressure settings aren't right. I've been doing a fair amount of bucket work scooping/loading material (rock/sand) and I KNOW that I've got a LOT of weight and the loader's curl and dump (as well as loader lift/drop) works fine. Dump trailer is about 12k lbs and I'm getting four to five buckets in it and when I go to dump that trailer it strains pretty good (it's a top of the line trailer). BUT, pallet forks tend to extend weight out farther, so perhaps it's all due to that? (my brain will start hurting if I try and calculate the forces; I could do it, but I'm getting older and I'm trying to conserve brain cells :laughing