Loader Odd squeak from front (axle?) with a full bucket of gravel - kubota 3400 - problem?

[k0ua]

I bought this rig in December and haven't found a use for the bucket/forks yet. Experienced I am not.

This may sound dumb, but if you want some experience buy 16 tons of 0 to 3/4 gravel/rock and have it delivered somewhere you can play with the tractor FEL. practice mounding it up and spreading it out and mounding it up again. Burn up a couple of tanks of fuel, and you will be a heck of a lot better at FEL work. I know this may sound dull and boring or a waste of fuel, but like anything else if you want to become skillful at using an FEL you have to practice using it. The more you practice (and keep up that practice by using your skill as often as possible) the better you will become. Learning how to properly operate a FEL is a very useful skill to have.

 

[aarobyn]

I just verified that nothing was loose. I couldn't find where I put the socket extension bar that fit my torque wrench. Then I need to find where the manual to get the recommended torque!

 

[aarobyn]

I have 30 tons of pea gravel (minus 6-7 buckets). You can come practice here. I'll show you right where to put it

 

[SPYDERLK]

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...oday-weight-day.html?highlight=ballast+weight

Ask, and ye shall recieve. In that thread, adding 870 lbs on the 3pt, took 610 lbs off of the front axle.

There are times in tractor-loader use where the load lifts virtually all weight from the rears and you cant steer. This will esp happen backing up a small incline. Realize that this means the entire tractor, counterweight, and load, bear on the fronts.
,,,A tractor equipped with a front axle unable to sustain this is not suitable as a loader tractor.

 

[the old grind]

I'm looking at 3PH pallet forks to add a platform & barrel of water. Attaching the weight as far back as conveniently possible will maximize front end 'lift' for the total amt of weight added. (shifting CG/o'all wt more toward the rears) I've done most FEL work with the CUT leaving the box blade on the 3PH by default. For the UT's much bigger/stronger FEL I'm using the 7' disc as it's heavier & sticks out farther, thus the planned addition. (man, the stuff I've crunched with that big thing hanging far & wide back there)

Were the tire a radial I'd have checked it for belt/ply separation. (not sure how tho'..) If the pitch of the squeak didn't change with ground speed I might have looked elsewhere from the git (lugs.etc), but if the noise depended on load in the FEL ...?

Last time my front wheel studs were loose the tip-off was a 'rumble' with a loaded bucket. Seems the hub didn't center as securely (or as precisely) as auto/truck wheels would. As it 'clunked' around on the studs the holes got hogged out a bit before I caught on. :duh: No prob once I tightened 'em up, tho'. I've gotten a lot better about checking wheel & loader bolt tightness since then ...

 

[Fallon]

I'm looking at 3PH pallet forks to add a platform & barrel of water. Attaching the weight as far back as conveniently possible will maximize front end 'lift' for the total amt of weight added. (shifting CG/o'all wt more toward the rears) I've done most FEL work with the CUT leaving the box blade on the 3PH by default. For the UT's much bigger/stronger FEL I'm using the 7' disc as it's heavier & sticks out farther, thus the planned addition. (man, the stuff I've crunched with that big thing hanging far & wide back there)

Were the tire a radial I'd have checked it for belt/ply separation. (not sure how tho'..) If the pitch of the squeak didn't change with ground speed I might have looked elsewhere from the git (lugs.etc), but if the noise depended on load in the FEL ...?

Last time my front wheel studs were loose the tip-off was a 'rumble' with a loaded bucket. Seems the hub didn't center as securely (or as precisely) as auto/truck wheels would. As it 'clunked' around on the studs the holes got hogged out a bit before I caught on. :duh: No prob once I tightened 'em up, tho'. I've gotten a lot better about checking wheel & loader bolt tightness since then ...

Lots of ballast boxes around & even more posts on here about building various types. I'd recommend something more solid like dirt, rock or even concrete over water. Much less sloshing & leaking. Not like dirt is more expensive either. You can also put 3pt attachment points directly in the barrel (especially with concrete) & save a boat load. 3pt pallet forks aren't that cheap.

Personally I don't bother with a ballast box. I just use my box blade or the rotary cutter if its already on (better leverage, similar weight, but much more awkward).

 

[the old grind]

Thanks! (tho' not my thread) Sling some stuff (mills, lathes, grinders) and lift with boom pole, BH stinger, or FEL, but some are a bit too big, and o'head clearance is sometimes limited when moving them into/out of the heated shop thru' 6' 6" door height w/high 'step-over'. Thought I'd strap a barrel (poly w/lid) onto a pallet & also[/I] try that out for ballast (QA that way?). (No use AFAIK for forks on the FEL(s) or to lift more that a foot or so high around here. )

I got such a kick out of the member who concreted 4" or so PVC pipes into a ballast barrel as tool holders. Occasional water accumulation would be but a few secs away (wet-vac) from being remedied, or drain holes could be added by hammer drill.

Gotta go check lug torque on 12 wheels, as ground is thawing/drying and I'll be back in the seat(s) this week.
Did the OP find whether his f-wheel lugs are 'loose'?

 

[aarobyn]

"The Old Grind" - I'm the OP. Nothing was looking visibly loose on inspection, but I'm rectifying the inflation issue and torquing the lug nuts this afternoon just to be sure. Then I'll take it out and see if the issue is resolved.

 

[aarobyn]

Recommendations on front lug torque? I can't find my paper manual and my pdf version is conveniently corrupted. I googled around a bit and found someone with a smaller tractor going to 57-67 ft-lb. I set my torque wrench to 60, and wasn't able to move any nuts on the left side. On the right (squeaky) side, I was able to move 2 of the 6 between a 1/8 and 1/4 turn.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Recommendations on front lug torque? I can't find my paper manual and my pdf version is conveniently corrupted. I googled around a bit and found someone with a smaller tractor going to 57-67 ft-lb. I set my torque wrench to 60, and wasn't able to move any nuts on the left side. On the right (squeaky) side, I was able to move 2 of the 6 between a 1/8 and 1/4 turn.

Theres your problem. Thats quite a bit of turn for so lo torque. I just looked at our L2550. The lugs are bigger than 1/2". If they saw fit to use that size you have to expect a proportionate Torque. Go 90-100 Ft lbs.
larry