Oil change time - what's recommended

[Mace Canute]

I use factory filters for most of my vehicles, even after the warranty's over. They usually cost about the same as aftermarket and I know that they actually meet the factory specs. I keep hearing about aftermarket filter that don't quite meet the specs for things like size of particles filtered or pressure relief valve trip point even though they're listed as compatible.......

A friend is the local dealer for Texas Refinery Corp. and a Used Oil Analysis is done on every oil change he does. Occasionally a report comes back that there's dirt in the oil and almost invariably that can be traced back to an aftermarket air filter that does not seal properly. Switch to a factory filter and the next oil change shows clean oil, as far as dirt is concerned.

 

[dragoneggs]

For my cars I usually have someone do the oil/filter change now. Guess I'm lazy so I really don't know what I am getting as far as a brand of oil/filter. I've learned to regularly change it though.

With my tractor I do all the maintenance myself and I use the OEM (Kubota) oils and filters. This way there is far less chance of screwing up or having an issue with an inferior product.

 

[DieselBound]

"Most" manufacturers will state to use their fluids, but also state what "spec" that fluid is. The "spec" is industry specification. Pretty safe to go by proper spec from any leading fluid manufacturer: doing so will NOT void your warranty.

Lots of manufacturers tend to make it a lot hazier to identify what spec their hydraulic fluids are. In my Kubota I've always used Kubota's label. For my Kioti I have used what the dealer carries and uses (Mahindra): I believe, however, that Kioti does provide an industry spec. Polaris is really bad in this regard; I had to do some "reverse engineering" to track down a non-Polaris branded fluid- I used their MSDS to find a fluid that matched (turned out to not be all that big of a deal).

All of my diesel equipment is able to run the same oil, in which case the convenience factor outweighs equipment manufacturer branded oil. I run Delo 4000 LE 5w-40 or Rotella T6 5w-40: but I do so only because I have consulted the manuals for all equipment and am sure that this oil meets the requirements specified.

 

[mike69440]

I use Rotella T6 5W-40
Works, Hot or cold, Plus I go 100-200hrs on a change. Thousands of hours on my machines.

 

[Oldtink]

Ditto on using T-6 especially in a turbo'd engine.

 

[cat fever]

Another vote for T-6 oil with OEM filters. I change it every year regardless of hours. (Usually less hours than what is recommended by Kioti for an oil change.)

 

[TomSeller]

I use OEM filters and Rotella T6. Write the tractor hours on the filter with a marker when you change it.

 

[Soundguy]

They try to hide the specs to get you to use their re bottled oil. And that's all it is.you dont see a job Deere oil refinery anywhere do you

Its just custom packaged, like the other brands do.

 

[Musdalen]

That was supposed to be OEM, not ONE. **** phone!

 

[DieselBound]

They try to hide the specs to get you to use their re bottled oil. And that's all it is.you dont see a job Deere oil refinery anywhere do you

Its just custom packaged, like the other brands do.

Come to think of it, I don't see a John Deere factory around me either :laughing:

Yeah, in most cases it's a general additive package. But, sometimes you don't really know because the manufacturer may have put some funky component in the engine that requires something special (usually to protect it). Any more, however, most will also show an industry spec in addition to their branded offering. CJ-4, which is what most have been running, is being superseded.

BobIsTheOilGuy.com is an excellent site to read/learn about engine oils.

 

[Soundguy]

Come to think of it, I don't see a John Deere factory around me either :laughing:

Yeah, in most cases it's a general additive package. But, sometimes you don't really know because the manufacturer may have put some funky component in the engine that requires something special (usually to protect it). Any more, however, most will also show an industry spec in addition to their branded offering. CJ-4, which is what most have been running, is being superseded.

BobIsTheOilGuy.com is an excellent site to read/learn about engine oils.

If the manufacturer puts in something extra special in the oil and you can only use their oil, they will, in most cases, have to provide you that oil.

Magnuson Moss warranty act

 

[TomSeller]

Even if it is snake oil?

 

[dragoneggs]

Even if it is snake oil?

Ha ha! :laughing:

 

[fried1765]

My 20 year old jd 870 i use 15w40 shell rotella conventional,my 2013 mf 1529 i use 10w30 shell rotella conventional.

For many years I have used ( and still use) RotellaT 15W-40 conventional, in my tractors (both gas & diesel), and my gas cars as well.

 

[Brotherdan]

Since you're going to the store.....

You'll need an oil filter, oil, hydraulic fluid, hydraulic filter, a couple fuel filters, grease, brake parts cleaner, anti-seize, a tire gage , and a good grease gun.

It's a good idea to get some fuel conditioner and that Diesel 9-1-1.

The oil change should go pretty easy.

When it's time, the hydro filter gets changed and the screen gets cleaned with the brake parts cleaner. My screen hides behind the left rear tire.

It's always good to have hydro fluid and oil on hand to make up lost fluids.

Fall is a good time to pull the tires, clean and anti-seize the lugs, properly torque the lugs and make sure the tire pressure is correct.

Conditioning the fuel is important in your region. My TSC sells a couple conditioners in addition to the 9-1-1 for gummed up diesel. If your diesel gels, you will probably need to change fuel filters.

Greasing is a big part of keeping it good.

Oddly, manuals for tractors are more important than manuals for most other things. Keep it in a safe place.

Dan

 

[Deere Dude]

For many years I have used ( and still use) RotellaT 15W-40 conventional, in my tractors (both gas & diesel), and my gas cars as well.

I have used Rotella T 15-40 as long as I remember at lease since 93 when I got my first turbo diesel truck. I still do and have had many diesel tractors including turbos that I use Rotella T 15-40. I never had a problem with them and change oil once a year if I remember it. I lived in chilly Wisconsin most of the time and never had trouble starting them although the tractors were in a pole shed and if it got 20 below I would plug the big tractor in. Yanmar engines in the tractors.

I really don't get the fascination with synthetic oil especially considering the price difference and it gets changed once a year anyway, or in the trucks at 5k miles.

 

[newbury]

<snip>

Oddly, manuals for tractors are more important than manuals for most other things. Keep it in a safe place.

Dan

And if you don't have a softcopy, scan it in.

It makes it really easy to refer to. Especially if you have a smart phone.

 

[TomSeller]

When switching to synthetics on every diesel I have had I notice it runs quieter. in some cases significantly.

 

[buickanddeere]

I have a "new" tractor - actually now 55 hrs old I guess. It is time for an oil change. What is recommended for oil in these things? I've never had a diesel anything, so school me on what to look for in types of oil (and filters too).

I will have to review the owner's manual, but I am repulsed by comic books in general and this seems to be one. I'm sure, however, there is useful info in there that I will need to extract (like oil weight and volume etc.), but I am curious what others consider good engine oil maintenance considerations.

FWIW, the tractor is a JD 3039R. Location Iowa (winters are only semi-cold if it matters).

what ever the service manual states.

 

[Musdalen]

In the FWIW department, the manual says every 200 hrs - which would be about every 3 yrs I suppose. I think I won't hurt much if I do it a little more often.