Oil filter analysis

[GlueGuy]

Tin snips would be a better choice than a hack saw. After whaling on a filter with a hack saw, it would be hard to discern what particles came from where. Best choice I've seen is to use a large-diameter pipe cutter. Just chuck the filter into the cutter, spin it around a few times, and voila!

There are also labs that will do oil analysis. In airplanes this is common practice to try and catch little problems before they become big problems.

The GlueGuy

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Under the Magnuson-Moss Act, a manufacturer can make a warranty conditional on the use of a specific brand of a lubricant and/or filter only if those products are provided free of charge....

 

[gordon]

The anti drainback can be a good feature depending on how the filter is mounted. Another thing that comes to mind is if the filter has the ability to bypass and if so at what psi.

Filters are alot more complex in this day and age than the 8a or the 1515.

I think and this is "my own opinion" so take it for what it's worth but Wix makes Kubotas filters. Wonder makes their oil? My guess for the day./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Gordon

 

[bgott]

Hot rod catalogs usually have a listing for a cutter designed to open oil filters. A lot of racers open their oil filters every run to see how much bearing metal is in the oil.

 

[GlueGuy]

I also get a newsletter called Light Airplane Maintenance. They have frequently pointed to suppliers for filter cutting tools. They are relatively pricey for the simpleness of operation, somewhere around $100. They are the ones that mentioned just using a large diameter pipe cutter.

The GlueGuy

 

[Doublezero]

Hi Folks,

My John Deere 790 is just over 2 months old and I did the 50 hour oil change this past weekend. I went to the local JD Dealer and got the recommended oil and filter. The replacement filter has a JD logo on the side but it's a good 1/4 to 1/2 inch smaller in diameter than the filter that came on the new tractor. The replacement filter is black and the original is <font color=green> green </font color=green> {appears to be painted when the engine was painted} so no logo. I looked in the opening of both filters and they appeared the same with no anti drain back valve {that was obvious to me} in either. In fact the only obvious physical difference is the diameter. The rubber gasket and threads matched, so I installed the new filter with no problems or leaks.

The point here is that I'm comfortable with the replacement filter since it has the Deere logo on it, but I'll have to admit that if I had purchased an aftermarket filter and noticed the difference in diameter, I would probably have been most uncomfortable.

I spent just under $15 for the oil and filter and have enough oil left that I'll have to buy one less quart next change {which I think will be at 250 hours}.

This isn't meant to be any sophisticated "oil filter analysis", but just a little input to share with other novices {like me} that might be overwhelmed by some of the knowledge needed to maintain these complicated little machines.

Larry

 

[Anonymous Poster]

There was a time when Fram was one of the best, if not the best, filters you could buy. This is not that time.

During the 70s and 80s Fram was the major target of counterfeiters; some were filled with crushed newspapers for filtering media.

Today's Fram filters need no counterfeiting to tarnish their corporate image. Rip one open and you'll find half the filtering media and lousy pressure relief and anti-drainback valves, compared to other filters.

How important is this? It hasn't been that long ago that engines didn't even have oil filters. Six cylinder Chevy engines in the 60's offered an oil filter as an option. VW beetles used a little wire screen. Pratt and Whitney used a rolled-up wire mesh which if you saw it lying on a bench by itself, you'd never guess it was a filter or could filter anything. However, these engines didn't last anywhere near as long as today's engines do, and probably some of that longevity is attributable to higher quality oil and oil filters. So I *sure* don't want to take a step backwards (and that, to me, is what Fram represents) and use a substandar filter when a good one is available at the same price.

BTW, I work for the parent corporation of Fram and could get an employee discount on Fram. I buy Purolator, Baldwin, Wix, NAPA, or Fleetguard.

 

[Doublezero]

cp1969,

Since you are an "insider" your post makes me worry. If you know the answer, please tell me that buying filters with the JD logo is the smart thing to do.

Thanks!

Larry

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Sorry to have taken so long to get back.

At least during the warranty period, you can't go wrong with using the filter sold by your tractor/car/truck/whatever manufacturer. By putting their logo on it, they're saying it meets whatever requirements their engineers have designated.

It's some (not all) of the aftermarket filters that are of questionable quality. I can see no good reason to use substandard filters when good ones are available for the same price, and IMHO a few of the "good" ones are Purolator(also makes Motorcraft), Wix, Champion, Fleetguard, Baldwin, Donaldson and NAPA(made by Wix, I believe). You can still get a bad filter even from a good manufacturer. What separates the good ones from the rest is if they'll step up to the plate and make good when their filters fail. I can personally attest that Fleetguard and Donaldson will do this, to the tune of *thousands* of dollars worth of engine repairs when their air filters failed.

That's another point...IMHO, people worry far too much about their oil filters and not enough about their air filters. I've never lost an engine to a bad oil filter, even given the quality of some of the junk I've used. But I HAVE lost engines to bad air filters....twice.

 

[heehaw]

it seems like i read somewhere that Baldwin makes the filters for amsoil?? but i have never seen that brand, is it a locality thing, only sold in some areas??
heehaw