oil for air compressor

fromjusttheking · Jun 12, 2023

I installed a fully automatic digital drain control to my IR 80gal 5HP compressor back in 2011. Then it wasn't cheap, almost $110, but it sure was worth it. What I did was to remove the winged petcock valve and replaced it with an elbow and an extension to an inline ball valve which then connected to my auto drain unit. The exhaust port of the unit then connects to a length of Tygon tubing that goes thru a hole in my wall to the outside where the pressurized air in the tank exhausts to. I like the fact that even back then, the control being digital allows me to see the "state" it's in, such as how soon before it will automatically activate and drain the tank. I have it set to drain every 4 hours for a period of 30 seconds, whether the tank is in use or not, 24/7. It's powered by 120VAC. So far, it's never failed yet. Even with power interruptions, it just restarts where it left off so to speak. It does not need to be set to time of day since it only "knows" how far it is away from the next 4 hour drain cycle. It sure works for me. Just my experience.

1offroader · Jun 12, 2023

It’s a good idea to regularily drain your tank.Moisture causes rust and you don’t want that as your tank could eventually fail and blow up.
If you don’t like the manual valve you can purchase an automatic one to replace the existing one
They are inexpensive and mine works as it should.
Good luck

Jaygyver · Jun 12, 2023

That yellow ish gunk is just oil blow by from your compressor mixed with the condensation that accumulates. As your compressor pump wears you get a little more blow by as it ages. My pump died after about 20 years and the with the new pump the major gunk went away. As long as it doesn't show any pink/red in it, that would be some rust.

Your compressor is like mine, still on the original pallet, so what I did is cut the side out of an old 1 quart motor oil jug, lay it on it's side so it will slide under the drain and I just drain it into that, just enough for a fast dribble, and then just empty it out and leave it under the compressor for the next time.

benski · Jun 14, 2023

Open the valve just enough to let whatever condensate and contaminants escape ; if you just open it to wide open the moisture will be pushed away from the drain by the passing air. A ball valve is a great upgrade on this kind of installation; a gate valve has a tendency to collect cooties in the valve seat and leak.

bigtiller · Jun 16, 2023

fromjusttheking said:
I have it set to drain every 4 hours for a period of 30 seconds, whether the tank is in use or not, 24/7. It's powered by 120VAC. So far, it's never failed yet. Even with power interruptions, it just restarts where it left off so to speak. It does not need to be set to time of day since it only "knows" how far it is away from the next 4 hour drain cycle. It sure works for me. Just my experience.

I set my 60 g. 5 hp. to blow every 6 hours for 3 seconds. I had it set for 10 seconds for awhile but that greatly increased the compressor run time so I set it down to 3 seconds.

chut2k · Jun 17, 2023

You have recieved a lot of good advice here. I lived in Kingsport for 5 years and Knoxville for 10. If you can't get your compressor drain and oil leak fixed to your satisfaction, I may be able to refer you to someone who can help.
I have installed and used everything from manual ball valve setups to the Harbor Freight "automatic" drains which work on pressure differential in the tank to electric timed drains. In my opinion, the best solution for your application is the manual elbow and ball valve setup. Open the valve a few seconds until it runs clear before and after each use.