One month on synthetic..so far so good

[bbse]

Considering I have only 30 hours on this engine I am going to wait till 50. I am using Delo right now. When I put the synthetic in the tractor it will have to be diesel rated. I don't think the Wally World brand is but I could be wrong. I could use Rotella but I hear the same thing about it, just hydrocracked dino oil. I think on the tractor I am going to use the real thing and i would like for the rings to be completely seated, hence, I am watching the oil consumption closely till 50 hours and may wait till 100. I presume from what I have read that synthetic is going to reduce wear even more so it would take even longer for those rings to seat if I switch too soon. I am dissapointed that the rings are taking so long to seat. I had the engine sleeves installed, cross hatch honed by a very respected expert and the fellow that helped me reassemble the engine does it for a living, has for 20 years, everyday. This took me by suprise. But others I have spoke with tell me it is not unusual for it to take some time for everything to seat.

 

[Z71]

It may not be the rings, it could be the oil. Volatility is an expression of a lubricant’s evaporation tendency.

 

[bbse]

How do I know? Should I just wait till 50 hrs and change to a different oil?

 

[Dargo]

Considering I have only 30 hours on this engine I am going to wait till 50. I am using Delo right now. When I put the synthetic in the tractor it will have to be diesel rated. I don't think the Wally World brand is but I could be wrong. I could use Rotella but I hear the same thing about it, just hydrocracked dino oil. I think on the tractor I am going to use the real thing and i would like for the rings to be completely seated, hence, I am watching the oil consumption closely till 50 hours and may wait till 100.

I think everything you've said in this thread has been logical and reasonable. I'll only add that you will be pleased with a Wix filter should you decide to try one. Some of my friends have some very expensive play toys that are powered by Indy Cylinder Head or Keith Black engines and they only use Wix or Baldwin filters. I am by no means saying that no other filters are any good, I'm just saying that under long term extreme use, Wix and Baldwin filters perform well. I don't think I've seen any test or even any blog from anyone reasonable who has said that there is any problems with a Wix or Baldwin filter. That said, it would be foolish to say that you made a mistake by going with OEM for a replacement. My guess (sometimes that is dangerous) is that you went with OEM to be safe; which obviously has merit. Not all oil filters are good. Some are flat out crap. I only wanted to mention a couple of other filters that you'd certainly be safe using.

Good luck! Not that I'm the world's expert, but your logic definitely appears sound to me.

 

[jimgerken]

Do not put the full synthetic in the engine till you are satisfied with the breakin. Run breakin oil for 100 or more hours and work it. Rent a PTO brush chipper for an afternoon, have a big pile ready, have help on hand, run it all through. You will notice the power increase by the end of the day, if I am not mistaken.
My J.D. dealer told me they are actually putting JD breakin oil in at the first oil change, to help better break in engines. I don't know if it is for 50 or 100 additional hours, but it was interesting to hear.

 

[hsdfcu]

Still never understood the myth of “do not run synthic on break-in”. All that will happen is more oil used and longer break-in.

If Mobil1 (synthetic) can be used as a factory fill in an Viper SRT-10, Mercedes-Benz AMG, Chevrolet Corvette C6 and Z06 anf Aston Martin; it will be more then fine for a breakin on a tractor.

 

[Doc_Bob]

Still never understood the myth of “do not run synthic on break-in”. All that will happen is more oil used and longer break-in.

I am also unsure of why no synthetic until broken in. Does Mobil1 or Amosil tell you not to use their products for X number of hours?
Bob

 

[jimgerken]

Myth or whatever, it is the oil manufacturers' and machine manufacturers' recommendations in most cases to run mineral based oils for breakin. If rings and cylinders do not wear, they glaze. Once glazed, it takes a long time to wear through that. Glazed cylinders do not hold oil as well. Oil provides cooling, wear protection, and ceiling. Break in is an important time in the life of an engine, as we all know. BTW, the Corvette would not come from the factory with synthetic if there was any way in the world they could keep engine temps low enough for mineral based oils.

 

[hsdfcu]

BTW, the Corvette would not come from the factory with synthetic if there was any way in the world they could keep engine temps low enough for mineral based oils.

Never had issues with my cars, diesels (and BX) etc...Maybe I am lucky?

I will take glaze and higher usages of oil over wear....

Myths

 

[kenmac]

I'm guessing that Chinamart full synthetic is Group III which is made from petro/crude oil but is hydrocracked and has had the molecules rearanged. Is it synthetic, yes it is. Some would say it is not a true synthetic though because it started life as dino oil.[/quote]

well put !!