Opening ditch lines

   / Opening ditch lines #1  

steve2

New member
Joined
Nov 16, 2013
Messages
11
Location
alum creek, wv
Tractor
kubota m7040
Need to redo/open up roadside ditch lines on my WV hillside farm. I have a 5’ box drag and a manual 3pt 5’ blade. Also have FEL. Can anyone describe how to setup/use either implement to work a ditch line? I’m not able to offset. Is there a work around? Are there 3pt implements specifically designed for ditch line work? Top link is currently manual adjustment.
 
   / Opening ditch lines #2  
Could you describe the term "ditch line" a little better? Are you trying to create a finished ditch or a slope from the road bed say 5' wide that drains water?
I have "ditch lines" that are 4' deep that need to be maintained with a backhoe. That becomes a chore every few years due to vegetation growth.
I have roadside angles that are about 12-18" below the road surface that I mow multiple times a year and a backhoe never touches them.
Maybe a picture of your challenge would help.
 
   / Opening ditch lines #3  
Depends on the slope of the ditch bank whether you can do anything much with a tractor not to mention whether the ground is too wet to work in. That being said, a sliding rear blade that is wide enough and that can be angled up/down and sideways could potentially be used to re-work a slight ditch.
 
   / Opening ditch lines #4  
More details, more information, and pictures. Cannot answer any of your questions.

Allthough I do wonder why you only have a 5' blade and 5' drag box for a M7040 tractor???
 
   / Opening ditch lines #5  
my guess would be it is a recent upgrade and he kept the old implements.

certainly not big enough but something could be done. If the ditch is not too deep angle the rear blade and put the tractor tire in the ditch and gradually move more and more material out of the ditch to clear it.

Just know that if you hit something hard you will most likely damage the implement since the tractor is much more powerful that what would typically be put in front of 5ft wide implements
 
   / Opening ditch lines #6  
Need more information on road width and ditch size plus soil type and moisture content.
 
   / Opening ditch lines
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Depends on the slope of the ditch bank whether you can do anything much with a tractor not to mention whether the ground is too wet to work in. That being said, a sliding rear blade that is wide enough and that can be angled up/down and sideways could potentially be used to re-work a slight ditch.
 
   / Opening ditch lines
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Here are a couple of pics. Thanks for the responses. When/if it dries out I may try dropping tires into ditch line with blade if I can adjust vertical blade angle enough. Should I also adjust horizontal angle? FYI the tractor is 2013 upgrade and implements predate the 7040. I would consider one of those blades that offsets with more adjustablilty anyone have a good used one for sale?
 

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   / Opening ditch lines #9  
Looks like the ditch is on the uphill side. Problem is that unless you can get enough tilt angle on it, either a blade or box is going to flatten it to where you don't really have a ditch.
 
   / Opening ditch lines #10  
You will need to adjust the horizontal angle. Your tractor probably has an adjustment to make one side of the 3-point lower arms lower or higher. But I don't get enough angle that way on my tractor. But you can get a lot more by adjusting the top link. If you make it shorter the leading edge of the blade will go down, giving more cut out of the ditch.
 
   / Opening ditch lines #11  
FEL at right angle to driveway. Ground around ditch is usually soft and do several bucket width scoops to fill bucket. Makes for a clean, deep ditch.

I use a combination of FEL, backhoe and landplane depending on area. My driveway is much steeper.
 
   / Opening ditch lines
  • Thread Starter
#12  
FEL at right angle to driveway. Ground around ditch is usually soft and do several bucket width scoops to fill bucket. Makes for a clean, deep ditch.

I use a combination of FEL, backhoe and landplane depending on area. My driveway is much steeper.
Smokey thanks for response. Unfortunately road ROW isn't wide enough for right angle FEL approach. Also unfortunately do not own backhoe attachment. Is "landplane" a specialized blade?
 
   / Opening ditch lines #13  
Smokey thanks for response. Unfortunately road ROW isn't wide enough for right angle FEL approach. Also unfortunately do not own backhoe attachment. Is "landplane" a specialized blade?

Use the B26 FEL that’s about perfect size and maneuverability.

Everything Attachments landplane has idled my rear blade and yardbox for driveway maintenance for 6+ years. Easily paid for itself in gravel saved and maintenance time. Wish I had one 50 years ago.

Have used the Paumco quick spade on the FEL. Can offset to side of bucket.
 
   / Opening ditch lines #14  

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   / Opening ditch lines #15  
One of these would make short work of those ditches.
WV isnt reckless sand and definitely isnt flat.

I dont think a box blade is the right tool. It's going to drag a pile towards the road surface and not allow water to enter the ditch. It's also going to fill up in a few feet.
 
   / Opening ditch lines #16  
I think the key is whether there is enough adjustment in the OP's dirt blade and 3 pt hitch to get the right angle on the ditch, but I'm doubting there is.
 
   / Opening ditch lines #17  
We clear all the ditches on the 400 foot drop, half mile driveway with a blade. We can pivot our blade in X, Y, and Z axis in addition to using the top link and the lift arms. We manage to clear the ditches.

Our blade is all manual adjust so we work in small areas, set the blade, do our thing, adjust the blade and repeat in the next area... It takes the better part of a day to run the ditches and not mess things up.

Last year, we added using our new stump bucket to help. Many times we would have a pile of debris at the end of the ditch that needed to be cleared. With the stump bucket, we can straddle the ditch and then clear the very end with the bucket - leaving an open end for the water to get out and away.

With a good crown, we keep the water flow to the sides of the driveway and the erosion down the tire tracks to a minimum. Keeping the crown is also key for our hill.

We're still learning how to keep things working well on this hill.
 
   / Opening ditch lines #18  
WV isnt reckless sand and definitely isnt flat.

I dont think a box blade is the right tool. It's going to drag a pile towards the road surface and not allow water to enter the ditch. It's also going to fill up in a few feet.
If you are talking to me, I linked to a hydraulic rear blade. Why you thought that I was suggesting a box blade only you know. :unsure:

The OP has a 5' rear blade that I can assure you is a lightweight implement. With an 8'-9' rear blade that weighs 1000lbs or more and has offset capabilities around 35", he can easily rework his ditches.
Just like the pictures show.
 
   / Opening ditch lines #19  
70 hp on a 5' non-offset rear blade, hmmm, might work in Florida but doubt it will work around rocks. Need a 7 foot offset-able heavy duty one!
A pond scoop (dirt scoop) might work, and a middlebuster might break up the ditch so that you can use the 5 foot rear blade without tearing it up.
David from jax
 
   / Opening ditch lines #20  
A rear blade having tilt and angle can certainly rip a ditch, offset maks it easier to get it lined up.
If the rear blade is tilted to it's max and angled so the low end is forward it will rip and cut a ditch easily.
A large tractor will destroy a light duty blade.
I will try and remember to get a couple pictures of mine when I clean out my ditches this year.
But with a blade tilted all the way and rotated so the low side is forward almost to the tire the corner will rip a narrow fairly deep ditch easily. It also puts your tractor entire working effect into the very tip of the blade.
 

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