Operating Temperatures Help Please

piperc744 · Aug 9, 2011

Hey guys,

I have a 2005 FarmPro 2425 3 cylinder Diesel tractor.

I have noticed since I got the thing about 6 months ago, that the temperature gauge reads very high almost all the time.

My question is... is this normal? what operating temperature do you guys find appropriate?

The meter reads: 100, 80, 40. and the arm works its way up to about 90 after like 15 mins or so, when its warmed up good. then it will go up to 100 after another 20 mins now.

I have sealed up all coolant leaks that i know of.... I feel maybe the fan is not working properly, although it is running....

Jerry/MT · Aug 9, 2011

piperc744 said:
Hey guys,

I have a 2005 FarmPro 2425 3 cylinder Diesel tractor.

I have noticed since I got the thing about 6 months ago, that the temperature gauge reads very high almost all the time.

My question is... is this normal? what operating temperature do you guys find appropriate?

The meter reads: 100, 80, 40. and the arm works its way up to about 90 after like 15 mins or so, when its warmed up good. then it will go up to 100 after another 20 mins now.

I have sealed up all coolant leaks that i know of.... I feel maybe the fan is not working properly, although it is running....

What does your owners's manual say is the normal temperature? Does it have any info about the thermostat? Is it a 180°F thermostat? Are the temps you're quotting °C? if so then 100°C is 212°F. Whether that's high depends on whether you are working the snot out of it or just driving it around. What's the rating on the pressure cap for the cooling system? While 212°F may seem high if you have a 10 psi pressure cap it's not a concern because our are not boiling the coolant which will reduce is cooling effectiveness.
Generally speaking, the middle of the temperature range is "normal" (moderate work, not pulling a 5 bottom through heavy clay) and there is generally a range between the middle and a temperature "red line" where you are definitely over temping.
Without more info from you I can't be of anymore help.

piperc744 · Aug 10, 2011

Hey Jerry,

thanks for replying. well i do not have a manual for this tractor, as the previous owner threw it away since it was in chinese.... i did however find out through these forums that my farmpro is equivalent to the jinma 200 series, and someone linked me that manual... but the only problem is, there is nothing that i can find in there about operating temperatures.

ive concluded that it is absolutely running too hot. it seems to reach max temp on the gauge sooner and sooner now.... and although there are no leaks, i still have to put a half gallon of coolant in every couple days. the cap has a hose that runs down the side of the radiator. that hose leads down to the axle area and is dumping coolant there which explains the refills. that also tells me that the radiator is getting way to hot way to fast.

is there a special coolant i need to be using, im using general stuff from the part store, same stuff we use in my diesel truck...

what else could be causing this? i ran it for about 30 mins today before having to stop to let her cool off, im scared ill overheat it. when i first start it, the gauge slowly works its way to the right at the bottom 40 mark, then it slowly raises over the next 15 mins to about 70-80 and then from there over the next 20 mins it maxes out to the 100 mark....

N80 · Aug 10, 2011

I'm not a mechanic but either the cooling system isn't functioning or there is a cause for excess heat that is overwhelming the cooling system.

I'd start by checking the oil and looking at it. Check transmission fluid and look at it. That's about as much as I can help with in regard to excess heat generation.

As far as the cooling system goes, check for leaks, obviously. Make sure the screen in front of the radiator (if equipped) is clean of debris. Make sure the outside of the radiator is clean of debris. Make sure the fan is turning and make sure the fan is on right and blowing the right direction (I've heard of them being reinstalled backwards...if that's even possible). Then, I guess you'd need to check the water pump. Not sure how to do that without pulling it off except to crank the tractor and while still cold remove the radiator cap and look in and see if the fluid appears to be flowing.

That's about all I know to do.

piperc744 · Aug 10, 2011

wow thanks, will try all of that, and i will take any advice any one has, so feel free!

tcartwri · Aug 10, 2011

Did you burp the system when you topped it off?

what elevation are you at?

100C is not crazy hot. But it should be greater than 80 when you are running it.

piperc744 · Aug 10, 2011

hey, i did not burp it, should i just let if run with the cap off to do that? its taking way more water than i would imagine a burping required though, unless this will cause the water level to be way too low and increase temp....

im in colorado, so high alt. but like i said its maxing out the temp gauge.

im wondering of its the oil too, i changed it a couple months ago, so it should be good and used 10w30 but it was not diesel specific, just said it had cleansing agents in it and such.... should i be using the 15w40 i use in my truck? it is for diesel engines.

CharlieS · Aug 10, 2011

oil per se won't cause an engine to overheat, but you'd be better off running a good diesel oil such as rotella. Diesels by nature are dirty and regular oil doesn't contain the additives needed for diesels.
As for your radiator overflow dripping, it could easily be a bad pressure cap, or the cap's been replaced with one having to low of a pressure rating. Thermostat could be sticking closed as well.
you can also start it and warm it up with the cap off and dip a thermometer in the radiator to check actual temp.
A radiator shop can pressure check the cap. worst case would be a partially plugged radiator which would require removal and having a shop rod it and get it all cleaned up.
As far as elevation, in colorado you could be anywhere from easten plains at about 4K feet to 8 or 9 K up in the mountain communities, or back down to about 5K on the western slope. so just as an fyi, simply stating your in colo. really doesn't answer tha altitude question.

N80 · Aug 10, 2011

CharlieS said:
oil per se won't cause an engine to overheat

When I suggested he check the oil I meant to make sure there was enough. Plus, looking at the oil can often tell you a lot, as in if it has water, coolant or metal in it.

KubotaSam · Aug 10, 2011

When my tractor starts running hot is almost always dirt/dust in the fins of the radiator. Take an air hose and blow out the fins of the radiator, I bet it will help.

tcartwri · Aug 10, 2011

piperc744 said:
hey, i did not burp it, should i just let if run with the cap off to do that? its taking way more water than i would imagine a burping required though, unless this will cause the water level to be way too low and increase temp....

im in colorado, so high alt. but like i said its maxing out the temp gauges.

Top it up while it's running at about 1000 rpm, wait for the thermostat to open ( could take a while ) and keep adding until all the air is out. The rad cap should be the highest point in the cooling system when you do this, so you may have to drive it up an incline slightly.

Secondly, you should go and get a rad cap that's rated for a few pounds more than what is installed now. The higher altitude lessens the rating of the cap.

And obviously, check for obstructions in the fins.

JoeL4330 · Aug 10, 2011

OP mentioned coolant flowing out of hose ...sounds like no coolant recovery bottle: as coolant heats it expands, radiator "overflows"; overflow collects in bottle and, then, when engine cools down, coolant is sucked back into the radiator from the bottle. If you look at your car's recovery container, there are likely two level marks, cool and hot ...the difference is how much expansion is expected and, if that is that is approximately the amount you "lose" through the hose, that would be perfectly normal. You can install same; JCWhitney and the like probably have retrofit kits available.

Lots of good advice from posters above, like making sure radiator fins are clear and that pressure cap is correct and operating ...make sure fan is working and check belt tension? Make sure hoses are not collapsing and/or replace ...another thing I'd do is flush the radiator ...available chemicals and kits at any auto parts store ... continue until the water runs clear. Another thing to try is to validate the engine/water temp as gauges are not always perfectly calibrated.

If any of that helps, let us know ...if not, there are more drastic things to consider.

Mace Canute · Aug 10, 2011

Start off doing the easy no or low cost stuff first, like making sure the rad isn't partially plugged...blow it out from the opposite direction of air flow. If you have an infra red temperature gun you can use it to verify the temperature gauge reading and the thermostat also. You can also use it to check the cooling efficiency of your radiator....the area closest to the inlet will be the hottest and the outlet will be the coolest. BTW, these temperature guns have a lot of uses only limited by a person's imagination. For what a quality one costs, it's well worth it to have one. Rad caps can and do fail. They are relatively cheap (or should be) so trying a new one is often a good idea. Thermostats are a little more in depth (sorry for the bad pun) but might also be the culprit. Sometimes you can peek in through the rad cap opening and see if there is any buildup on the inside of the little tubes that the coolant flows through...that can prevent the rad from doing it's job.

Leonard · Aug 10, 2011

I'm no expert but one of the things I check when temps run hot is the air filter.

amaxwell · Aug 10, 2011

As several have stated check the radiator for air flow, most small tractors are just tall enough to catch lots of weed seeds and blooms which clog the air flow. I had to remove my radiator and use a plastic strip to push thru the spaces between the fins to clear them.Over the 35 previous years they were cloged beyond air or water cleaning them.

Now no more getting hot.

JoeinTX · Aug 10, 2011

The Saskatoon Sage and others are right. Do the simple stuff. Is the radiator screen clear? Is the fluid level in the rad' normal? Diesels don't overheat like the average gas engine machine.

If you're using it normally for normal ops within normal ranges...........should be no problem. The fan "not working"........?

I trend toward thinking it's a gauge or wiring issue. The tractor shouldn't have a hard time cooling itself under 95% of conditions.

piperc744 · Aug 11, 2011

ok, i took out the thermostat, and it seems to be the problem...

i took a lighter to it and got no reaction at all... must be shot?

so i went to town to try to find one that is similar and could be used to replace it, no luck at autozone and checker auto...

ordered new one online from farmproparts.com and until then i will run it without the thermostat.

is this ok u think? will only be for less than a week.

JoeL4330 · Aug 11, 2011

glad you isolated the problem (usual way to check 'stat is in a pot of boiling water)

won't hurt to run for a while w.o. thermostat ...engine just might not run as efficiently

piperc744 · Aug 11, 2011

ok, update:

even with the thermostat completely removed... its still doing the same thing...

i ordered a thermostat already too....

neway, ive removed the radiator, and in the morning will take it to a shop to get cleaned out and checked out, i know i saw some chalky white buildup in there so it may also be the problem.